Howplum

I think the options are limited. After some research I bought KYB for the rear of my LS400, although I haven't got around to fitting them yet, so can't comment on their effectiveness.

Unfortunately the micro bulbs Phil kindly sent me were slightly too big. Having removed the green cover and measured the bulb as best I can it would appear to be only 3mm wide and 6mm long - really small: Zooming in on these pictures I will need a steady hand and a good magnifying glass: I have ordered some replacements from eBay, and I suppose the worst that can happen is that I still have no working light. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

Thanks for your comments Pete. To be honest it was only on a whim that I thought I could add an auxiliary input so that I could listen to one particular radio station (Boom) through my phone, or perhaps my music library from an ipod. As I mentioned before, I have tried the cassette adapter and a plug-in FM Transmitter, both of which didn't produce the desired result or quality. Veba seem to most common of this type of device and gets reasonably positive reviews on Amazon, for example, but I get the impression that all these devices are a bit of a compromise, perhaps with predictable results. Another issue I haven't mentioned is that when travelling any distance the radio doesn't automatically seek the strongest signal for the chosen station, although I'm not sure if it supposed to or not. I think for the moment I am tempted to live with the existing system.

The noise is a constant tone, and is present even with engine off and the external aerial disconnected. This is a recording: 2021_12_01_11_11_40 It seems to me the issue might be with the FM modulator itself. Apparently it has been sitting in a cupboard for over 10 years, although I can't see how that might affect it.

Perhaps something like this? The green cover seems to be separate. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Electronics-12v-Volt-Small-Mini-Micro-Bulbs-3mm-Audio-Display-Light-New-x3-/140731894549?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I should add that the background noise is present without the engine running.

I noticed recently that the Power/Volume knob is not illuminated, although the other controls light up correctly. I dismantled the unit, expecting to see a small bulb that could easily be replaced, but no such luck. What I found is a number of VERY small bulbs which seem to be part of the PCB, although I must admit I haven't tried to remove the culprit. This is the bulb in question: Has anyone any experience of replacing these? Can they even be replaced, or do I just live with it? I have looked at the parts websites but the only show completed components.

Thanks to Mick's very kind offer I installed the JVC FM Modulator this afternoon, and it works. However, there is a small issue I wondered if someone might be able to help me with. There is some background noise which seems to be present on all the 8 channel options that the device communicates on. The frequencies on FM range from 88.10 MHz to 89.50 MHz in 200 kHz increments. With no device connected to the modulator I can get radio reception on all of the 8 channels, albeit not very well, but with the background noise, possibly because reception is weak. The modulator is fitted inline with the aerial and I assume is intended to automatically override any signal from the aerial when a device is connected to the modulator. Similarly, when an external device is not present the modulator effectively becomes "invisible". I must admit this is outside my comfort zone, but it seems to me that some form of signal is still getting through. I have noticed that FM Modulators are still available, although none of them are automatic, so they incorporate an on/off switch. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I should have mentioned that they are, as you probably suspect, wonderful cars to own and drive, and most repairs and maintenance jobs are not too difficult, helped by the thoughtful design and build quality.

You are obviously a man of taste Luke, and welcome to the club. Here is a little more reading for you: If you are able to do a lot of the maintenance and repairs yourself than they needn't be too expensive to maintain. If not, then a car that needs little or nothing doing needn't cost a lot, although prices are on the rise, at least for good ones. Not that's it's particularly relevant I imagine, but the fuel consumption isn't too bad either. I tend to average about 30 m.p.g. on a longish trip. Like any piece of complicated machinery they will have potential issues after 25 years, as I have found out! However, I did buy mine as a project. This is my topic, which you might find of interest. My car seemed to have most of the common issues, plus more, mainly as a result of damp and lack of use. Please fire away with any more questions you might have.

Success! My friend skillfully transferred the relevant component from the original PCB to the replacement, so the cluster is now showing the correct mileage and a full complement of working gauges, so happy days! It's only been going on since February! For those who might be interested, the component in question is IC105 at the bottom right hand corner of the PCB:

Malc, All I did was buy the complete console, including the radio, from a breaker on eBay. I did do a "How to" tutorial which is on here somewhere on how to replace it. I subsequently sold the radio on, but now wish I hadn't, because I could have used it as a guinea pig. Mick, Thank you very much for the offer. I might take you up on that. I have no idea how it might work, but I see it is JVC, so hopefully the instructions will explain all. I'm in Bletchley, but I will PM you.

And this a cropped version showing the radio/cd player connections. Any help would be appreciated.

My stereo appears to be the standard Lexus one, as per the enclosed picture (dodgy climate control display now replaced): I have also found a wiring diagram in my Repair Manual: Anyway, piggy backing the cassette outputs sounds like a less complicated option, provided I can establish which wires they are!

Thanks Aaron. That could be a plan too.

Thanks Stuart. I will obviously need to investigate further.

Thanks Stuart. I need to check and see which unit I have. In the meantime, I wonder if it is possible to fit an aftermarket head unit with an auxiliary socket? I suspect not.

After a bit more digging I found this article: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lexus-audio-video-security-and-electronics/269156-how-to-build-and-hardwire-an-auxillary-input-to-oem-stereo.html It's obviously for US cars and I'm not sure what the acronym NAK stands for. Something to do with navigation perhaps? If I understand correctly the CD changer is bypassed when a device is plugged into the auxiliary socket, although the amplifier is none the wiser. Following that logic, the device would presumably have to be unplugged for the CD player to work. Any thoughts?

Being of a certain age I have discovered a radio station aimed at my age group, Boom Radio. However, it is only available on DAB+ and the internet. That apart, I have noticed that on long journeys the FM signal can be variable. I have tried a cassette adapter which lasted no time at all before it decided to keep self ejecting, even after watching a YouTube video and removing most of the few innards there are. I then tried a cheap Bluetooth FM transmitter that relays the transmission from my phone through the radio (87.5). This plugs into the lighter socket but the sound quality was very poor. Looking at reviews for dedicated DAB+ adaptors, such as Kenwood, Pure et al, the weakness seems to be the poor quality of sound when using the FM radio, although when connected via an auxiliary socket the sound was very good. My fall back option at the moment is to use a small bluetooth speaker on top of the dashboard, but that would not exactly be discreet. However, does anyone know if it possible to adapt the existing stereo to include an auxiliary socket and/or a USB socket? Does this sacrifice the cassette facility perhaps?

Good news indeed.

And the MoT history isn't too horrific.

I spotted this 1999 car for sale on eBay, but what interests me is that it has BMW X5 wheels, albeit with only 4 nuts holding the front wheels on! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255203235741?hash=item3b6b4c579d:g:PkEAAOSwQexhfWcN I thought the PCD on BMWs is 120mm against the Lexus's 114.3mm. Also, I assume the offset would be different. The Lexus's is ET45 whereas the BMW's is probably about ET40, so either places the wheel further out, or further in, I'm not sure which. Is there something I'm not getting?

I have a spare cluster which might yield a working speedometer, although I haven't tested the cluster because I bought the wrong one! I am assuming the problem is with the needle mechanism and not the circuit board or elsewhere, such as whatever sends the signal. Unfortunately the temperature gauge is damaged on that cluster but your problem could be one or more electrolytic capacitors, although I am no expert. I did try several instrument cluster repairers to get my faulty cluster repaired, but drew a blank. Hopefully you will have more success. Good luck!

What exactly is the problem with your cluster? As you may be aware even Lexus electronics have age related issues. Mine was a classic example and it took me several months to find the exact replacement. Also, the part number is in two parts, the second part of which I found is crucial. Most issues are related to the electrolytic capacitors, of which were are 12 on my cluster. Another problem is that the speedometer and tachometer needles can be reluctant to move, but I discovered a fix for that. In any event, don't give up yet!

Also true of almost any renovation, be it car, furniture, property etc.