Howplum

I also have a similar problem, so will be interested to hear of any first experiences. No doubt the solution is out there somewhere, but knowing Lexus it probably isn't just a case of unclipping it.

Thanks Stewart. That's something I will keep a note of. Obviously whitewalls are a subjective choice, but at least can easily be reversed.

I started driving when thin whitewalls were fairly commonplace and were seen on everything from Ford Anglia's to Roll Royce's, the latter fitting them well into the 1990s. I've always wondered what they would look like on my black LS400. What make are they and where did you get them?

Don't forget to make sure the fill plug can be undone before draining the diff.! Just in case: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-ls-phase-2-rear-differential-drain-plug/ https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-ls-phase-2-rear-differential-fill-plug/

This has just appeared on Car and Classic: https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1441648

Persevere, it will be worth it in the end.

It might be a good idea to replace both cables and ensure the whole system works without any binding. Also, correct adjustment of the linkage and shoes is vital. I did mine two years ago but now need to readjust it. Finally, lack of use will cause problems at a later date.

I had a similar problem on the original instrument cluster in my LS400 and solved it by completely dismantling the cluster and inserting small pins in the face so that the speedometer and rev counter needles rested on them. I saw this on a US website. Fiddly, but effective.

They are available on the US eBay, at a price! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-SC430-2002-2010-OEM-Genuine-Center-Wheel-Hub-Cap-Cover-HEX-BOLT-x1-/113300824488?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I haven't seen this type of wheel "in the flesh", so I'm guessing a bit, but it looks as though they might be cap bolts, similar to these: https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/categories/stainless-steel-socket-cap-screw-a2-din-912-fasteners They're available in a variety of sizes. Other suppliers are available!

This idea was started from my wish to de-rust the rear subframe assembly, which I imagined would be easier if it was removed and dismantled. In the dismantling process no doubt some bushes would get damaged, and so on..... However, perhaps I should now subscribe to the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" method, and just deal with the rust in-situ as best I can, preferably before it gets bad enough for the MoT tester to make a comment in May. My son thinks he can hear a slight noise from the rear, but I can't, and as appears to be usual, the ride is unaffected. PS: PSB did reply to me and confirmed their bushes were 90 on the Durometer A Scale, so quite a but firmer than the originals. Thank you all for your comments though.

I am toying with the idea of refurbishing the rear subframe assembly, not only to remove the usual rampant surface corrosion but also to replace the numerous bushes (12, I think). Although the car has only done 84,000 miles rubber does deteriorate with age, so it should be a beneficial exercise. However, as far as the bushes are concerned I seem to have the following options: 1. OEM, probably from Japan or the Middle East, but that will be very expensive, and really not economically viable. 2. Aftermarket rubber bushes. Other than unbranded ones, the choice, on eBay at least, seems to be limited to Febest, which have mixed reviews elsewhere. However, correct installation is critical to give them a fair chance of longevity. 3. Polyurethane bushes. At least these have the advantage of ease of installation, although it seems to be a minefield as to the correct hardness which might give the best ride quality. Apparently the hardness is rated using the durometer Shore A scale and I read somewhere that rubber bushes are likely to be no more than 70, whereas polyurethane bushes are mostly 80 or 90, so quite a bit firmer, which makes sense for those seeking to improve the handling - but not appropriate for an LS! I did find these and have asked the company what hardness rating they are: https://psbushings.co.uk/product-category/lexus/ls/400-ls/ Does anyone have any experience of aftermarket rubber or polyurethane bushes?

Good luck. These things are sent to try us!

If you're keeping the car change it for peace of mind. If you're selling then change it for the buyer's peace of mind. Were the water pump, idler pulley and tensioner changed in 2012? If not, now would be a good time to do so. This is the type of kit I used on my LS400: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334202313768?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQiA3rKQBhCNARIsACUEW_ak5dgWShGzUF98_TjoD9_oULNL0uJVn3wSP7m0-Q5THmKf3A8Q33IaAmS2EALw_wcB

There are 4 SC430s being dismantled on eBay, although they might not be the right year or have the Mark Levinson stereo. I must admit I am more familiar with the LS400, so am not sure what the standard stereo was fitted to the SC430 in the early days. Is the microprocessor integrated or separate? If integrated, have you spoken to an electronics engineer? It may be something that is available separately. I had issues with the Pioneer factory stereo in my 1996 LS400 and ended up fitting a Pioneer double din "mechless" unit I got from eBay, which means I lost the cassette player and CD changer functions but gained USB and Aux inputs. Some double din units do include a CD player though. I must say the sound is vastly improved because I was able to retain the original amplifier. However, I had to get the fitting kit from the USA and make up my own wiring harness adaptor, although for the SC430 they seem to be available in this country, such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383988986690?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338767030&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A383988986690%3BCj0KCQiA3rKQBhCNARIsACUEW_ZSt2xp2bLQ7zZs4nYM4vhoXvMJW0L65iJNC4TVZSSrkgFlQLiC76AaAn7qEALw_wcB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A18QN1tugaS5-bIX_OjtBs9Q59&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3rKQBhCNARIsACUEW_ZSt2xp2bLQ7zZs4nYM4vhoXvMJW0L65iJNC4TVZSSrkgFlQLiC76AaAn7qEALw_wcB Assuming your system has satnav I suppose you could get a higher spec head unit that enabled the linking of your phone's satnav to the units display. My Pioneer unit is also connected to the reversing camera I fitted - it's a long car!

I suspect you might have to buy a complete centre console. Here's one I found on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154848260071?hash=item240dacefe7:g:lfMAAOSwqI1gxfIt Another option might be 3D printing, but that will probably also be expensive for a small part, and the metal pin might make it complicated.

It's my son's 1985 BMW E28 "restomod" project. I have volunteered to prepare the bodywork for paint.

Success! The re-gassed struts now work how I feel they should, in that I can lift the lid with one finger. Mind you, fitting them involves lying in the boot and applying a fair bit of pressure to the lid with one foot. Tip: It's easier to remove the struts complete with hinge mounting pin, but on reassembly the pins are bolted to the hinge before installing the struts. VID_20220209_134858326.mp4

Having sent my struts to SGS they rang today to say they have re-gassed them and increased the force by 75N, which apparently is quite a lot. Anyway, hopefully the boot lid will lift effortlessly. Interestingly I approached another specialist who said they couldn't be re-gassed because the ends are welded on.

Thanks Kieran. The camera I used was this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07WPYJMSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was only £19 but seems to work well enough, and certainly a lot better than the wireless one I had before. Pioneer's version is nearly £80, but probably isn't four times better. Installing the wiring is a bit of a faff because the back seat has to come out, along with the boot lining and sill covers. I was able to feed the wires underneath the covers in the boot hinges along with the existing wiring, and with a bit of "persuasion" under the dashboard, all the wiring is now hidden.

Or go for the full chrome look: http://www.chromespray.co.uk/

The grille on my LS400 is dark grey, which seems to be the standard colour. When I get around to painting it I will probably use Lexus's paint code UCA31 (Dark Grey), which is the colour of the lower plastic panels on my black car, and which may or may not be the existing grille colour. You could always add a bit of bling! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173688509904?hash=item2870a455d0:g:FrEAAOSwRWRbMHPF

Your wheels might look good on my LS400 if you don't want them!

You could try something like this: http://www.chromespray.co.uk/ But I suspect you might need another set of wheels for the winter

SGS have apparently received my struts, so I'll wait and see what they say before exploring other options. I presume any struts from a breaker would be of a similar age, and therefore potentially past their prime as well. It looks as though changing the fitting on the hinge to a ball type wouldn't work because the current arrangement stops any lateral movement of the strut, thereby preventing the strut from binding, or sliding off the pin under the parcel shelf. There is no clip at that end, because of limited access.