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Everything posted by nicnac
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You will need to spend around 9-12K for a decent facelift / pre21/03/2006. Underneath pictures of the rear are a must with these cars as the rear can rust and the exhaust can need changed , even on a late one . All the rust is surface and can be dealt with if you are that way inclined . 6-700 gets you and OEM rear exhaust sections from the cat back two sexctions , or you can go SS. If you can buy at 9 and spend a couple on it , you will have a decent motor . Mileage is not a big deal as long as belt /idlers has been done .
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Paul , Hard to say but it doesn't look to bad to me . . Clean it up and keep an eye on it for seeping . If you are not getting a fault . That's only a blanking plug as far as I know with two peg holes for a spanner .Looks like you had a seep from the pipes as well .
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I n my opinion the engineers belonging to a motor manufacturer usually get the balance between a smooth torque curve and high end power and noise about as good as you can get , for a comfortable road car with refinement . After market products may improve one area or another !. ie noise for boy racers or BHP for guys who sit on a dyno machine and check graphs. My advice .........stick to OEM and leave your car the way it was designed . !!!I just put the rear sections and middle sections on an SC . OEM was around 300 per section so not that much more than SS . It will last another 15 years so thats OK with me !!
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Having Refurbished a 2006 Sc430 earlier this year I have come across most of the issues with these cars , albeit the facelift model . Alas I think this example has not got a lot going for it , unless someone just wants a project to work on and doesn't mind the financial cost of a good refurb on the car . At the end of the process , you would still be left with a pre facelift example that would not be able to command top prices . Alas I fear this is one that might be better as a donor car for others !
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And Like the LW Forum I .will remain true to my word . That's my last word here as well . waffles is not my type of meal .
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Yes you really need to remove the hub !look at the photos above .
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You give little info on your setup , both provider service package , . etc Also no information on your hardware . It is impossible to make an informed diagnosis without infoermation . Speedtest your internet on all devices and see what is happening with nothing else open . Go from there .
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I did the rears ......the fronts should be ok as there is a different setup with no shaft ...therefore no or little corrosion .
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You definitely need them replacing if there are filings ..........................good luck!
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Just googled this for info P2714 is a problem in the SLT solenoid. I had the same problem. Eventually i opened the pan, replaced the SLT solenoid+atf filter+atf fluid+pan gasket. Now the car works fine about 5,000 km P2757 LEXUS Possible Causes What does this mean? Dirty transmission fluid Faulty line pressure solenoid valve SLU Line pressure solenoid valve SLU harness is open or shorted Line pressure solenoid valve SLU circuit poor electrical connection Torque converter clutch Valve body is blocked
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First thing I would do is clear all codes on Techstream . Then reset the Engine and Transmission to defaults . take her for a run and then recheck . It is possible that they will disappear. If they reappear then you can use the utils on techstream to check various operations of the transmission . If this does not make the codes go away , then I would look at the transmission oil as possible cause . I wonder if the Lexus Techs did any of this ?????????
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Its a complicated piece of kit and full of wires to all the solenoid bodies that are sitting just above the the oil pan level . Not necessarily to the slipping the torque converter is supplied with oil from the sump and as long as there is enough not to cavitate it wont slip . At 130K the WS fluid needs replaceing by the cycle method . It can function longer and does in many transmissions of the A760/A960 E types , but at 50 K its pretty dirty ...................I know been there a few times !
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Yes , but the malfunction and subsequent code flagging can be the product of incorrect level fluid or its condition . Those codes in the main relate to the valve body of solenoids in the transmission . .
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If you notice I never used Flush.......... only Cycle . Please look at the youtube video . and it all becomes clear . What I am advocating is the fluid cycling to replace as much as possible ( i do it 4 times ) then the final level check .iaw the procedure . Then if he still has fault codes ... you go from there !
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Incorrect final level checking on this transmission can cause various symptoms from notchy changes to gears not even selecting .There are multiple solenoids ( electrical) hydraulic in the transmission which can malfunction if the fluid level is not within spec. So it is imperative that the procedure is followed precisely . This is an elimination process in the case of the original snag ! A960E.pdf
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Mark , This is NOT a FLUSH in the traditional meaning . It is a procedure to cycle the oil , replacing appox 2 litres at a time to cycle the oil through the system . It was Lexus Belfast that origionally caused my issue ., and there so called technicians. The procedure is a proper procedure provided by LEXUS , the manufacturer. I would add , I am 68 .... Was a qualified aircraft engineer . Then changed to Electronics in the 80,s and during all my years did varios projects with cars , engine and transmission rebuilds , so take your choice what advice to follow Tr Fill.pdf
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He need to eliminate that there is a fluid issue before going any further . Without techstream and a logical approach he is useing the scatter gun technique of diagnosis !!!!
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I am an engineer !! and I was also a IS250 owner that had gearbox issues back in 2009 . Read my past posts from that era . I despair at this attitude which at best is ill informed . I now own a Sc430 which has a nearly identical 6 speedtransmission and can supply the toyota pdf for transmission oil cycling etc if needed by anyone who doesnt put there head in the sand and wait for christmass !!!!!!!
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You do need to check for correct fluid level in the transmission . IT IS CRITICAL that it is correct at the correct temperature.If it is very brown in colour you need to cycle fluid through it a few times with the drain /fill recheck level procedure . There is a great youtube video that can help you here . If you do this and reset the system useing Techstream Software and go from there ! ONLY TOYOTA WS TYPE FLUID
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You will need a cluster with MPH speed . Also if you want the correct mileage to show on the odo you will need to program the eeprom probably 93C46/56. This is doable if you have some electronic knowledge and a programmer such as a Mcumall 4x4. If Lexus supply you with the unit it will be 0 miles and they annotate the service book to that effect . This is not for the amateur unless you have skills .
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New Tyres Fitted
nicnac replied to Mines-a-pint's topic in Lexus NX300h / NX200t / NX350h / NX450h+ Club
Mine on the CRV were 1) BridgestonesS and then Falken W -
New Tyres Fitted
nicnac replied to Mines-a-pint's topic in Lexus NX300h / NX200t / NX350h / NX450h+ Club
They are the best tyre i have used for UK climate.Fitted them to CRV 3 years ago and noticed the same as yourself . i highly recommend them .