Barry14UK

Might be a good idea to give an indication of your budget so possible sellers would not respond if this is above your figure or if their cars are well below it; also, any red lines such as age, mileage colour combination and model etc so members may have a better idea of what you want.

As regards radiators, they go through a continual cycle of expansion and contraction every time the car is started and shut off. They are a very lightweight component and it's only a matter of time and luck before they fail. I think I have replaced the radiator on most of the cars I have had or had some of the early non plastic part ones recored. For people with cars younger than 5 years, they could check that their dealers honours the Gold Club discount which they can sign up for here which gives a discount on normal servicing and parts as well as from Halfords at least.

I take it that your wife has tried getting in the RX? My wife is 5'2" and even with the seat in it's lowest position finds it quite a climb, particularly from our drive, so I tend to drive into the road close to the kerb which makes it easier for her. Just a thought.

Well done! rubber seals tends to swell over time so filters should only be done up fairly lightly hand tight. If you use removal tool to install the chances are you will overtighten making the filter difficult to remove in due course. It is also important to lightly oil the seal to stop it binding up as the filter is screwed on.

The problem with using any conventional type of filter removal tool (or the heavy screwdriver through the filter which I admit to using in desperation on one occasion), is that you are attempting to twist on the thin weak part of the filter. Faced with this situation and due to what is almost certainly an alloy housing, I would be careful about using a drift to start the filter turning at it's stronger threaded end, although this could be tried by careful tapping. What you do it down to you but this is what I would look at. Firstly, I would look at the replacement filter you bought which is presumably the same at the one installed. I have not yet had the (dubious pleasure ?), of removing a Lexus oil filter but if it is the usual screw in kind found on most cars, the thread in plate is surrounded by holes through which oil passes. This plate is the strongest part of the filter. If it is possible to access this plate by drilling, dremelling, miniature saw or chiselling, away the filter body and taking care to avoid threaded projection, it might be possible to turn this plate by having a couple of bolts secured into a bar. This would work like a bigger version of an angle grinder key to turn the plate which only needs a slight amount of movement to free off. If using this method, care would also have to be taken to avoid any other projections from the alloy housing. Clearly, after removal, all debris should be sucked out and the area well cleaned. I would not attempt this method where the filter is mounted at an angle where swarf would fall in the engine. Using a three pronged tool as has been linked to is better if the prongs can get purchase at the top and there is room to twist. However, sometimes the filter it too long to enable this so it might be necessary to make the filter shorter by cutting in some way to enable reach to that critical high point of the filter. Good luck and let us know what works for you.

Lexus labour rates are high and so are some of their parts (whilst some others are reasonably priced). If you have neither the confidence nor the inclination to do the work suggested by Lexus, you could get it done by a well recommended mechanic or garage at less cost. If they can machine the worn disks and still keep them within spec this might also be worth investigating. It would be advisable to fit new OE quality pads at the same time and otherwise new OE quality disks and pads which whoever does the job could fit. The service brake could be sorted out at the same time. Timing of work could be influenced by date MOT is due.

One can only judge whether the price is reasonable when you know the extent of the work and the reasonable time it would take to do the job. I have not adjusted a cable where the leverage is applied by foot rather than by hand but otherwise think the principle is the same. On most cars where I have done this it's fairly easy to get to the adjusting nuts beneath the car or by removing a small section of consul within the car beneath which the adjusting nuts are located. However, the problem is not always entirely one of a stretched cable. Sometimes where service braking is achieved by friction material on shoes within the hat of the discs there is often a self adjusting mechanism that doesn't always work well or gets partially seized, so tightening the cable may not be all that is needed. In these circumstances it may be necessary to free off, clean and adjust this mechanism and only then take up the slack on the cable. Should this be necessary, it will add to the time to ensure a proper actuation of the service brake.

Although the hybrid battery has stored power for a long period, it only supplies the 12v battery when connected to it and at a fairly low hourly rate at that so it can take quite a time to charge up the 12v battery. The 12v battery has a constant discharge through powering the alarm, and depending on model satnav, central locking etc., and of course depletion over time as batteries lose charge even without load. So short time connection is inadequate and it takes quite a time for the 12v battery to be adequately charged. It is of course possible to keep the 12v battery charged by using a smart charger or solar panels (under suitable conditions. Industry recommendations are to replace failed 12v batteries with ones of the same type. (A larger Ah battery can be useful if you are parking at an airport for example for long time, particularly where the battery is a few years old). Also, if it can be accommodated, a larger battery with greater capacity means that it needs to be charged less frequently as Herbie calculated for example; useful where car is not used due to pandemic restrictions.

Glad you enjoyed. He has done many other bikes such as the Viper V10 8 litre as here or the Honda 6 racing replica using largely Yamaha FZR engine which in a later video sounds fantastic. I think he might be able to design a 'cat' shield for our cars!!

If you admire engineering innovation but have never heard of Allen Millyard or watched any of the videos showing his outrageous creations take shape recommend you look at this example.

In your shoes I would ask the Lexus dealership the question posed here as to how they would open the hatch. Additionally, I would ask how their figure is broken down into parts and labour. I would then ask another Lexus Dealership to price for this job. If the motor forms the greater part you could try sourcing one from a breakers.

Also, in addition to what Colin asks, do you intend to keep the car for a very long time? At it's age it qualifies for the lower cost Essential Service, which is what I would do in the circumstances as this would include a check on the Traction Battery that provides a guarantee on this expensive to replace item. It's reasonable to replace the oil each year, even in a little used vehicle as acids accumulate but I doubt would cause serious additional wear in the time but this is unquantifiable factor. Well you could get a sample of the oil analysed if you were of a mind to but not really practical to strip down engine components to determine amount of wear in present circumstances.

Well if it works, at least it can reduce noise pollution in populated areas. I have had a couple of pretty noisy cars in the past but they were sports cars and more in character with noisy exhausts. It would have been nice to have been able to mute the sound at times, as for long drives the sound became irritating, even in my old V8 Maserati. Now prefer Lexus quietness or ICE unless at race circuits but each to his own.

Sorry, it's showing in my post although I must confess I had a lot of trouble linking to it so it must be a problem I have with this forum. It was a cropped picture showing the rather unusual rear window of my Mercedes V8 380SLC and the tailgate spoiler that a very few of these cars had as part of a 'Zender'' body kit. The picture was heavily cropped to avoid the rear quarter slatted windows which would have been an obvious give away. The car was a personal import from Germany by a previous owner and was left hand drive. I really wanted it to be a RHD and it chanced that a guy wanted to take his RHD SL420 to the USA where he was emigrating. So the SL of the time being the same up to and including the dash, we exchanged all the necessary parts. The conversion for the other guy was prioritised due to his early departure to the states and despite me chasing for my car it took about 10 months before I got it back and converted. I had a couple of other cars in the meantime, by which time I had lost interest in the SLC perhaps through frustration. It was a lovely car and I now realise I let it go too cheaply.

What's this easy one then ? No, not the caravan.

A tank like thing that the Americans seemed to like!

Pretty sure it's a BMW coupe, possibly M3 E30

Perhaps the main advantage of a smart charger is that it senses the state of the battery. When connected to a battery with low charge it will charge it at a rate up to the maximum of the charger until the battery is almost fully charged when it will reduce the rate of charge until the battery is fully charged. Also, a smart charger can be left connected to a battery via a 240v supply long term where it will just keep it topped up as necessary. A decent smart charger will have a mode for checking AGM and free flow lead acid batteries as well one for reconditioning. A smart charger also prevents overcharging and 'gassing' which is particularly important in an AMG or maintenance free. battery.

Well done to have found a relevant post from several years back. I am sure forum members would appreciate it if members who had problems reported back with what the answer/solution was. This would help others with the same symptoms, as well be a courtesy to those who had tried to help with advice. Hope you get a definitive explanation/resolution Julius.

Yes very few battery manufacturers quote just 5HR, some both 5HR and 20HR but vast majority now just the capacity at 20HR rate which seems to be becoming the accepted reference. The original Pan battery on my 3 series RX450h just shows 51Ah. Interesting the 4 series RX450h has gone to 60Ah. I have worked out how I can fit a 60Ah 027 AMG battery into my car but before doing so I want to check whether I can fit a 75Ah AGM one. This would need the battery compartment being extended but I will have to remove the undertray to check this is possible. It would also be necessary to move the spare wheel fixing over so the wheel avoids fouling the battery. The battery I would be looking at would be the Hankook AXS65D26L which is designated for Hybrid Electric Vehicles and is 260mm long. For those that are happy with a flooded lead acid there is more choice.

Only 38Ah on that Optima. People with the 51Ah battery as originally fitted in the RX450h complain that depletes too quickly if car left at airport or not regularly charged by Lexus procedure, trickle charger or solar panel. I am pretty sure that even the Prius has a 45Ah battery. The Optima would serve but I am sure you could do better given the available space in the RX400h and the stated fact that a standard flooded lead acid would be suitable and might also be cheaper.

The price you pay for a transverse v6. Doable and no doubt some enthusiasts would do this but fewer than would change the plugs where they are more readily accessible. You also really need a garage to work in away from dust and rain - something we might get away with not needing where access is easier for a quick job. Well done those who do this themselves and thanks for posting. There are other videos too which show a slightly different way of going about this job and it's maybe a good idea to check these out too.

I read Bosch and Varta same now just badge engineering. I have used Varta on my pre Lexus cars and been happy with them.

Is it possible that you could plastic weld the tabs back on or if you have lost them make up replacements using a similar plastic? (It's important that any new plastic is the right type so it will react and meld with the original). I have done this on a number of car parts, toys and other things using mainly a fairly small soldering iron to start with and on larger jobs a broader soldering iron to quickly draw over to smooth. Where finish is important, I have sometimes added filler and then further smoothed with various grades of wet and dry. The last job I did was to repair impact cracks on the under tray of a car where finish was not so critical. With small parts where the type of plastic will take superglue, I use this first with various ways to help retain in position such as using wooden clothes pegs or making wooden splints to temporarily hold in position. For better strength I meld the plastic in from both sides. It needs some skill to achieve a good result, sufficient penetration but not too much heat as material will buckle and collapse if too much heat is applied or the iron held on the plastic for too long. Ideally the ambient temperature should be fairly hot or the workpiece warmed. It is important to minimise intake of fumes that this process gives off. There are a number of videos showing this but as a person who has been doing this for many years, I am not very impressed by some of the results they show.

Doubtless there are some good garages/sellers, however, some members here have reported problems in getting warranties honoured by non Lexus sellers. Not so good if you are one of these!