Barry14UK

I connect my charger direct to battery terminals, However, my Lexus manual does say to connect the negative charger lead to a more remote part of the chassis (presumably to help avoid the very small chance of a spark igniting any improperly vented battery gas).

You could always add a roof box if lost space is a problem occasionally but better fuel return always there. Having said that, one wonders how LPG is going to be impacted with World energy shortage. Demand could be stimulated by people converting and increased use domestically, particularly in 3rd World countries.

Also like the wood trim, so seldom seen these days. A keeper!

I take it that is Elite Motors of Croydon (Norwood). Don't know them but looking at their web site it seems they have more used RX models than some Lexus franchised dealers. (Wondered where so many RX were going). They certainly look good but do scrub up well. Worth a look.

The two valve per cylinder Senator (same 3L engine as in my Opel Monza), was bullet proof. The four valve per cylinder engine that succeeded it in the Senator was certainly a lot more powerful but was prone to timing chain/sprocket problem causing expensive damage to top end. One of the guys we in the Autobahn Stormers Club used for spares, said he had supplied the Police on several occasions with parts due to this problem. Otherwise, I found the Senator a commodious and comfortable car, although it would have benefitted from more precise steering.

Ford Zephyr as used in Z cars ----oops, perhaps not a good choice at present!

A possible cause for premature wear can be the pads not quicky retracting slightly as you come off the brake pedal causing excess rubbing. Where this is the case, the most probable reason is that the pads are not freely moving over the pins which should be smooth, unworn and correctly lubricated.

I keep a torque wrench in my car with very short extension and appropriate socket, in case I need to use space saver wheel. I use this for final tightening of nuts or bolts (whichever fitted) and do this in cross pattern to manufacturers figure. Where retorquing already fitted, I slacken them off a quarter turn and then retighten until there is a click. The manufacturers supplied tool is not good for accurate tightening.

As situation only noticed on return from service, suggest you contact the garage you used. Tell them what you have noticed after service and ask if anything they did or noticed could be responsible.

Jack car up at front and in turn hold front wheels at 3 & 9 and 12 & 6 positions and see if you can rock. Also, turn wheels and check for smoothness. Check brakes not binding or partially seized. Check discs not excessively lipped preventing proper contact with pads and that pads are good. Check anti roll bar bushes allowing movement and other joints. I take it wheel bolts/nuts tightened opposingly in correct sequence to correct torque if wheel has been removed. If you can't find anything amiss, suggest you then take to decent garage for analysis. One test they could do is to put your car on a rolling road and check when brakes comes on they do so uniformly and progressively. I don't know if your model has rack & pinion or other type of steering but just possible slack/wear here causing clunk. Interested to know what problem is found to be.

Well I thought I would take the opportunity to add a cautionary note on modifications. I am just paying my annual premium and paste a relevant clause which shows not only what must be notified but how insurers may consider anything else they may decide is appliable:- "Has the vehicle been changed in any way from the vehicle manufacturer's standard specification? This would include: Changes t o the bodywork such as spoilers or body kits, changes to suspension or brakes, cosmetic changes such as alloy wheels or paint, changes affecting performance such as changes to the engine management system or exhaust system and changes to the audio/entertainment system. Please note that this is not a full list of possible changes. All changes made from the manufacturer's standard specification must be disclosed." !!!!!!!

When seeking insurance quotes for a car several years ago, I included a cheaper copy of the front grille from a variant model. In one case the insurance guy on the phone told me that there would be an additional cost for this as the ram effect of air going through the alternative grille would increase power. I told him that the air intake was to a sealed standard filter box drawn threw a port high under the left front wing, so changing the front grille would not make any difference. I suspect many a motorist with this model would not be aware and just accept an additional cost. Some insurers are more tolerant than others and some will either refuse cover or increase premium for miniscule changes.

Sorry you have had problems in fitting Herbie and hope you can get resolved one way or another. I wonder whether Insurers would need to be informed of the addition of side steps as a body modification from car as supplied as they tend to try to wriggle out of claims in the event of an accident. I added a very tiny boot spoiler to my standard 5 series BMW from the sports version of the car. It made no difference to performance, only appearance, as both versions of the car have identical top speed and acceleration. However, insurers did increase premium slightly, not that that was a major concern, but they expected to be told and I didn't want them to be awkward in the event of an accident claim.

This is a subject that causes quite a bit of controversy on car forums and certainly on a BMW forum I am still a member of. Reference was also made to the American experience because they tend to put more miles on their cars many do change their transmission fluid rather than accept the 'sealed for life' statement. The majority view on the BMW forum was better to change transmission fluid at regular intervals of about 70K miles and not after 100K miles if it had not been done by then but safest not to flush anyway. I had my 5 series replaced, (without flush), at 75K miles and changes seemed slightly better and at over 100K they are still almost imperceptible. I think how long you intend to keep the car as your own is a big factor for UK drivers many only keeping for 3 or 4 years or lease period and changing transmission oil is not even considered yet alone a flush.

And if you think that joining the ranks of BEV owners is the answer, be aware that there is growing incidence of charging cables being stolen as these also contain valuable salvageable material.

Don't know if you will get the opportunity to check underneath but they can rust, particularly if used near the coast. Hopefully, you should be OK with 2010 model and take preventative measurers, as replacing sub frames can be expensive as some members have found.

Back to like running boards of early cars! My wife struggles to get in my car and I have though about using a wooden block with rope attached which can be pulled up when she is in but interested in these side steps. They might also serve to stop damage on doors from others opening their doors.

Haven't used them myself but Lexus Croydon is another possibility for you, (also Jemca I believe). Somebody did express satisfaction with them some months ago on the forum I recall. However, although not far from Battersea further from you so maybe not suitable.

Hi Sujan Would be helpful if you say what your budget is, the model you are considering and upper mileage cut off.

Unfortunately nearly all models from various manufacturers no longer provide a full size spare in or under the boot and of the few that do only provide a space saver. I have also used the spare a few times over the years in different cars. When I looked at the market before buying my RX I ruled out various cars because they only came with a pressurised tin of stuff (inadequate in some situations) or with run flats as on BMW X3. So, some buyers would still rather cars at least came with the option of a spare in a suitably designed place and not just placed loose above the boot carpet and secured as best you can as a customer aftermarket addition. Having to check the pressure of the spare and top up as necessary is a small inconvenience compared to what can happen with a major puncture or blow out without one.

Good. Careful underside inspection required at this age. I am surprised this was not picked up earlier at MOT, as clearly deteriorated over long time.

I bought their digital calipers as shown in link from a previous offer and found them reasonably accurate.

Presently covered by Lexus as included in extended cover. Will revert to Green Flag after present cover ends as found them helpful on couple of times needed - flat battery and split hose.

Well that would exclude for example Headlights at some £1,000 each if required, electronics and a number of other parts. Lexus have increased the cost of servicing in order to provide the 'Relax' cover and almost certainly hedged cover for potential costs through insurer.

I don' think 'Relax' covers as well as original warranty, so would check out what is excluded.