Barry14UK

Cost me around 2K mark to have the 2 front air shocks replaced by Lexus Cheltenham in low forty thousand mileage. Mind you I don't know how the original lady owner drove it but I doubt hard in view of the use made most probably of children operating screens for games or whatever judging by wear on remote for system. However, Lexus agreed that need to replace the air shocks at such low mileage was exceptional and allowed a small contribution towards cost on understanding that I took out a two year extended warranty. I note that air suspension has been dropped on the 4th Generation and one wonders whether the advantage over standard spring shocks makes insignificant difference or because the air system caused too many problems, although some have been OK for well over 100K miles. My advice would be to try to get a drive in cars using both types of suspension and then consider if the difference in ride made the potential cost of replacement worthwhile. I would also mention that the compressor for the air suspension is also expensive if this needs replacement. Several members on older cars have changed to less expensive conventional springs rather than replace air shocks when problems experienced.

Can't understand why anybody is so concerned about setting CC so precisely that they only just want to slowly pass somebody at a precise speed in 1 MPH increments. If I am about to overtake a car which is doing say 54 mph in 60mph limit I would like to do it swiftly using accelerator and then pull in front of him or her when at a safe distance past before allowing CC to automatically take over again. I know my car speedo and HUD read 2-3mph faster than true anyway, as is the case with most cars using standard properly inflated tyres. If the person in front of me is cruising any faster than 54mph I would usually stay behind them in a 60 zone Incidentally, I have noticed that as I drive down fairly steep hills, of which there are many i Devon, speed can exceed that set for the CC so it is sometimes necessary to lightly apply the brakes. The radar CC may work differently in this respect. Just another stereotype!

I don't agree with that last sentence. Politicians may be the same like industrialists, but there are far more cars on the road than 10 years ago. I observe this locally in the number of parked cars near me and in other places I visit and congestion. Increasingly both partners in a relationship have a car and as soon as their children are old enough, many of them get cars too. The foregoing applies to one of my two daughters and the other in all respects other than she does not currently have a partner living with her. Also, just look at the way more people have cars in developing countries, so the demand for fuel increases worldwide and with it the cost and amount of pollution. Also, whenever I use certain roads I am surprised at the number of lorries also making an impact. Pollution from vehicles is a significant contributor to pollution and in my view it is right for Governments to incentivise the use of less polluting vehicles and aircraft, also to encourage other industries to be more efficient and less polluting. People love the convenience of their cars so particularly away from large towns, bus services become less used resulting in reduced or in some cases non existent bus services. This in turn leads to more people relying on private cars. While it can be argued that BEV's only put much of the pollution elsewhere, it makes sense to reduce pollution in busy areas where it is high and adversely affects health. Actually, the Government has been quite successful in getting people not to start or to give up smoking, even though reduced sales means less tax despite higher tax rates. So campaigns can work. Of course I am going to complain about the escalating cost of fuel which was bound to happen with increasing demand and sanctions against Russia. But the Government have to raise sufficient money so we begin to pay our way and begin to reduce the debt much increased by borrowing during the pandemic. It will be interesting to see when most people are driving non ICE cars how lost tax on these will be recovered. I

You did not say whether you are considering moving to a 4th Generation, 2nd or 3rd Generation, the earlier cars being slightly smaller, the main reason I am keeping mine. It is one of the most comfortable cars I have ever owned, almost as fuel efficient as the 4th Generation iteration and would be considerably less expensive to purchase. Fuel comparison apart, both generation have similar acceleration which is adequate for this type of car and normal everyday. The new version of the RX will only have a 4 cylinder engine, which is one reason why some owners will want to hang onto existing cars. I have driven an NX and it is a nice car but somehow the 2nd and 3rd Generation feel more upmarket. I would expect the NX would be less expensive to run and service. You really need to try the RX and decide for yourself!

Brake pads are a compromise. The primary requirement is that you want them to slow or stop the car in a reasonable distance for normal use. For hard or track use you need need a pad that will stand up better to fade but will require greater foot pressure and may need a few hard retardations to stow. Then drivers don't like overmuch brake dust, although the ones that do tend to wear quickly too but retard well, at least in normal use. Then some will last longer but sometimes at the expense of greater wear on the discs. Some pads produce more noise. Better pads can use more expensive materials. Manufacturers fit pads that they consider meet conflicting requirements best for normal use. Certainly, there are pads that perform differently but as you move away from standard, you find they tend to perform less satisfactorily in another respect. The pads currently fitted on my BMW groan a little with light pressure as I slow just before stopping under light pressure. They will also groan and creak if very light pressure is applied to them along together with very light throttle. They don't do this at a hard stop or on hard acceleration. My thinking is that this noise is caused by very slight movement in the mechanism caused at slow revolutions as pads grip and slip. It doesn't happen so much under more heavy braking when the pressure on the pads continuously takes up all the movement. You can observe this more easily by looking at an old brake calliper on a bicycle. Another way is to run your finger lightly over a piece of wood. (Just done it on a coffee table). Done very lightly, the finger just slides along but increase the pressure while moving slowly and the finger moves in little jerks due to slight flexing of skin. However, if you maintain pressure but move your finger very quickly, it will move across the wood without jerking because the free movement with intermittent varying grip has been permanently taken up. The pads work in a similar way but the vibration will vary with material on brake and disc with flexing and pulsing. Subject to wear, I would expect identical models equipped with the same pad and disc material to vibrate in a very similar way.

I don't work for anybody - long retired and never worked in anyway connected with motor industry or associated products. Had many old cars so no stranger to dealers stores for various spare parts. Just speak as I find. Sometimes people can have different experiences with same dealer. Aspersions were recently cast on a dealer in another thread by somebody, whereas another reported a good experience with that dealer.

How crazy it is that when you sign up to renew your insurance shortly before due, it can make a considerable difference according to the days left before you sign up. So this is yet another variable. It seems like insurers are trying to make it more difficult and more hassle to compare quotes. I would like them to be obliged to give a figure that would apply anytime up to a month before due, just like many builders hold their price for a month or whatever. Of course any accident or material changes before the policy actually starts, would still be taken into account before due date.

Your battery will be the same size and type as mine as it has not been replaced since new, that is a 51Ah Panasonic VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) battery of AGM type. That means the battery acid is absorbed in a glass mat rather than being free to slosh around freely. The AGM batteries are more expensive than the free flowing ones, the main reason being because in the event of a serious accident acid will be retained and not spill on the car occupants. If you want a plug and play type of replacement you are limited to the original Panasonic, which seems only available from franchised dealers including Parts Direct, or a Yuasa version now made which is also expensive. However, if you accept the very small risk of acid spill as mentioned above, it is possible to fit a free flow lead acid alternative that is less expensive and with more brand choice. Furthermore, these can be of higher Ah. I wanted to retain an AGM type of battery that was less expensive than the dealer replacement, was higher Ah, and was of a type that was readily available. I achieved this by buying a Halfords (Yuasa) AGM one which has a 5 year warranty, ie 4 years longer than the Lexus Panasonic but it did mean cutting the plastic battery base ends to accommodate the extra battery length. As I wanted to retain the original battery earth strap, it did mean buying another terminal and making two distance pieces so the existing battery hold down strap can be retained. I did post details with pics which I will find and link to if anybody is seriously interested. The replacement battery I fitted is 60A and is a size made by other brands. Be aware that every time you let your 12v battery go near flat, it will reduce its life. If you do go with an AMG battery, the charger you buy should be set on AGM charging mode and be of a type that charges at 5amps maximum. I use the model mentioned earlier in this thread.

There was someone on here a few weeks back looking for a car of this sort of vintage, so if he has not got fixed up yet, let's hope he says yours. Always nice to keep a car within the club. I thought the Premier was not available with the pan roof, so something I have learnt. Would be interesting if you would say how your new NX compares with your RX in due course.

In the UK and in some other countries, Governments are incentivising purchase of BEV with rapid uptake by buyers. Whether, demand will outstrip supply to the same extent in the long term is unquantifiable, particularly with China intending to expand makes into Europe. For the present BEV's are selling at high prices, even used ones. However, t will not be very long before Toyota and others are marketing solid state batteries with much quicker charging times and longer range. It seems to me when this happens, it will cause a hefty fall in the value of presently equipped battery models. Although Toyota say solid state batteries will go in hybrids first, they are bound to respond if others introduce BEV's using this technology. https://uk.motor1.com/news/559246/toyota-solidstate-battery-production-2025/

Here is an interesting video by 'Scotty' on rare earth metals where China holds an advantage. also shown here some of the Chinese produced cars with Norway being an early recipient so a major shake up coming. Note one system uses battery that will not ignite even with nail driven into it.

The little dry powder extinguisher in my car likely not to be of much help then!

You could ask Lexus. I would have thought reference numbers might show.

What strides the Kia/Hyundai Group have made and now in the throes of establishing their Genesis arm to compete with more upmarket marques. I remember a passing glance when I visited a motor show a long time ago and quickly moved on, considering them more comparable with the Lada. That Stinger looks beautiful, particularly in the blue. Anybody wanting that sort of sports car and performance would surely be pleased to have it. Enjoy!

Thank you John. I provided AXA with with comprehensive details, plans and photographs relating to the accident, FOR INFORMATION ONLY. The Accident Management Company deal with all aspects of the claim with AXA (Insurers for the other party and for me, so in the circumstances, the presumption is that the other driver was at fault. Now that I have concluded my out of pocket expenses, I will forward these to the Accident Management company so they can present these to AXA, along with their fee. So as far as I am aware, who was at fault is still in abeyance. However, in the unlikely case that AXA do not completely exonerate me, they will contest this with AXA on my behalf. I will want this in writing but don't expect to receive confirmation until the claim has been finally settled. Fortunately, nobody suffered injury due to very slow speed of both cars, as I had only just passed over speed humps some 25 or so yards prior to the accident. In cases where there are injuries and treatment to take into consideration settlement can be delayed but not here.

Collected my armchair on wheels yesterday, repaired with genuine Lexus parts. The panel gaps are very good and the paint has been matched well, particularly as car is now 6+ years old. The paint finish is not quite as smooth as the original but not far off and certainly much better than on many a new car. The accident management company will only take a case if they consider you are not at fault and it did mean they bore all upfront cost so I did not have to pay my excess and then claim it back. I could have had a loan car but decided against it. On the few occasions I really needed a car I got a cab which was much less costly for the insurers and meant I was not paying for petrol as the cab costs, duly receipted, will be refunded. The major repairers I used also hold several sale franchises for cars. This did include one for Mitsubishi but with their withdrawal from the UK, they have replaced it with a Hyundai one. I took the opportunity to sit in the Ionic 5, which is a practical and spacious car with charging that leaves most of the competition behind. However, getting back into the RX afterwards, felt like moving out of Ikea into a VIP lounge, not that there there is anything wrong with Ikea but like it, the Ionic 5 feels budget, but is selling well. Having been hit twice in two years when I was not at fault, has caused some apprehension about it happening again but this will no doubt reduce over time.

I might have changed filter(s) on my 2.5 V6 Camry I had for about 10 years but it was never re gassed in my ownership yet was still blowing nice and cold (as required), when sold. I only noticed after my RX was hit that regardless of settings it would not blow out cool yet alone cold, so I asked those undertaking repairs to check whether a break or leak could have resulted from the hit the car received. I was told nothing was near enough to account for this, so I contacted the Lexus franchise where I bought the car and where it had been serviced from new. They said it would be covered by the extended warranty I took out through them. So hopefully, if it is anything other than dirty filters, for which I would expect to pay the cost of replacements, it will be covered under the warranty.

So Lexus expect you to place an order without giving a price and spec list. You would have thought by now they could have provided this. Let's hope Lexus have got the reliability right because if you read about the problems on various forums for other makes, far too many people are experiencing these and one of the main problems is the 12v battery not activating even when well charged. Temperature can play a part in this. On a slightly different tack, I believe some of the 'ready made' BEV's use a motor that just spins faster in the same gear as it were. However, some of the folks that have done home conversions have retained the existing gearbox with a low spinning motor so that you get to change up and down gears like you would with an ICE motor (something those who like changing gear would prefer.) Here is an example. https://interestingengineering.com/video/youtuber-converts-volkswagen-passat-into-an-electric-vehicle or if you want done professionally this outfit is converting some interesting cars as seen in this video. Electric conversion of a Lexus anyone? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eHLmnVW2rc

Apologies to OP, I was going from memory. I have just checked the seat underside of a 2001 E39 BMW 530i, that I broke for spares last year and a quick check shows that it has at least 4 motors that are immediately visible. There is no lumber support but it does have an extending seat squab. At least two of these motors have an intermediate rather than direct drive, so would work rather like the drive to the powered sun roof on that car, although there is only the one motor for moving the drive each way to the roof. So if the seat slightly flexible drive is similar on the Lexus, it could be this is the problem along with operating arms (as was problem with the sun roof on that BMW, the motor being OK), or the motor could could be faulty.

Strange thing is I am insured with AXA through a broker and got a much lower figure than going to AXA through a comparison site. Broker spoke with me and even gave a discount as I was a member of a car club. Quotations vary so much it's hard to know how this can be so. At varying points Insurers increase premiums for older drivers regardless of past history but they do place importance on a number of factors. You can get the figure down if you increase your voluntary excess. I would check a bit wider as your figure seems rather high.

There is one motor for each seat, at least on my BMW but it does not have lumber adjustment so could make a difference with RX). The one motor operates the different actions on my Beemer, just as one motor does in a washing machine. This video may give you some idea of what's under the seat and how to access it, although it's for the purpose of replacing seat covers. The fact that yours clicks suggest the movements is obstructed, even though you have checked this as well as you can. Sorry can't help further.

Fortunately not had to check on my RX yet but seats I removed from a BMW each had a motor and as I recall it was necessary to unbolt seat to access it, bit of a pain! You don't say if the other seat is affected which could give a clue.

Kitchen foil should work but it tears easily so you have to be very careful. Until I got a second purpose made aluminium box as I mentioned in another thread for my spare key/fob, I wrapped it in the thicker aluminium dish that a 'ready meal' had come in as a temporary measure.

Made at a time when Lexus were at their best. Front offside wing looks a little lighter than remainder of that side but could be a trick of light. Nevertheless you would still be happy to be seen in it. Mechanics and potential rust would need careful examination as could be expensive to remedy.

Insurers are quick to write cars off nowadays. The 2012 Audi that hit me looked like it needed a new bumper, offside wing and headlight as far as I could see from visual inspection. There was no dripping fluids and the car drove. Yet insurers have written it off. If it had been mine I would have got second hand replacements. Meanwhile, my car is being repaired with new parts and back to as new for just under 6K. (Accident down to other Audi driver AGAIN. The previous Audi that ran into the rear of my car was also written off!)