Barry14UK

It's possible that they may produce the Cross Climates in 20" size now but not so long ago there were posts saying they were not sold in this size. I have them on my 3rd Gen car and agree they made a great improvement over the Dunlops car came with. I have had a small amount of torque steer on accelerating very hard a couple of times but not to the extent that it troubled me and because I am not foot to floor driver I have never experienced it otherwise.

Good video. I have also watched some other videos this master technician has done. I like the way he makes his points in a clear and understandable way and without the horrible and unnecessary 'music'? that many people feel they have to add to presentations. One further aspect that was not covered in this video but a purchaser needs to consider, is whether it is a good time to buy a full electric car now or wait until the next generation when better battery technology and other advances may cause steep depreciation on present models and to some extent likely increased range on plug in cars with ICE.

Thank you John, The reason why I was thinking of bleeding the brakes is because when the brake pistons are pushed in to accommodate the new pads, brake fluid is going to be pushed back towards or into the brake reservoir/master cylinder. This might contain a small amount of crud. You may well be right about different hybrid models operating in the same way; I have also watched a video on the front brakes of the GS450h but there are slight differences in the way people went about it. So, as in my previous post I will leave the bleeding to the servicing garage.

Thank you Kenneth, I have found a couple of videos showing the pulling of these two relays but there was also the suggestion of the need to keep the key/fob well away so the brakes are not automatically pressured. There was a further suggestion that the neg lead to the 12v battery should be disconnected, accepting that windows etc would have to be reinitialised subsequently. Also, the detail concerned the RX400h but I would think the system worked in the same way for the RX450h. I checked through the manual that came with my car but could not find any information on fitting of brake discs or pads or bleeding brakes. Was this info in the manual that came with your car or do you have a workshop manual? In view of uncertainty, I think I will just fit the discs and pads and have the complete system including rears bled and brake fluid replaced in a couple or so months time when the car is due for a service.

Thank you Herbs, I am aware that the rear brakes have to be bled using Techstream but was under the impression that the fronts are done manually without Techstream, albeit with preliminary precautions to avoid electrical problems. Indeed, there are videos on Youtube that show this but they show slightly different things. I am therefore hopeful that somebody who has done this job or can advise definitively, will respond within a few days.

At circa 46K miles front brake pads on my 2015 3rd gen RX450h need replacing. There is not a lot of wear on the discs although a small amount of corrosion at the periphery where the pads don't make contact. There was a time when a good light skim would have sorted this, the discs still well exceeding minimum thickness. However, the cost of machining these days makes it preferable to replace with new which I will do. (It's not so much a question of cost saving but knowing I will spend more time than most garages in doing a thorough job). Decided I would stay with Toyota/Lexus boxed so checked with Lexus Parts Direct who used to give best price until they reduced discount for retail. However, they were more expensive than I could get them for from a factor and would not match the price even for a club member. (So don't assume Lexus Direct are necessarily going to be cheapest for genuine parts.) Incidentally, the back pads plates are stamped “TEXTAR T4146FF 477-XULI 02 TOYOTA” with various other numbers printed on them. Textar are a leading brand supplied as OEM on many cars. I mention this as I recall one member not being happy with TEXTAR being on pads bought from Lexus Parts Direct. There are a lot of fine metallic inclusions in the pad compound which surprised me as I thought they would be ceramic like the Akebono pads used on the USA RX450h which have an almost identical back plate but slightly smaller and different pad area. We only get the 4 pull off assist springs with our pads whereas the USA pads come with a full fitting kit. (typical!). The box reference for discs and pads is respectively43512-48120 and 04465-48190 which is correct. I have always used silicon grease on the sliding pins of my cars hitherto and will continue to even though Toyota/Lexus recommend using red rubber grease. There is a general warning on line not to use red rubber grease as it can harden over time leading to binding and the number of people complaining about sticking pads would seem to confirm this. I have changed brake discs and pads on many cars over time but none of them involved electrical precautions. I am therefore asking if somebody here could definitively say what is needed as videos on YouTube differ or are vague on this. My understanding is that I have to keep the key/fob away from the car and pull two blue relays. It is not clear whether it is necessary to disconnect the 12v battery or do anything else. Also, would the same electrical precautions apply to bleeding the front brakes only please?

I bought the earlier version of the Vonetti which is made from a billet of aluminium. It does the job and will probably last forever but will only take one key fob and is not 'cheap'. They have since streamlined it somewhat and this is the latter version. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284913671525?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=284913671525&targetid=1405282543919&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006516&poi=&campaignid=17218284410&mkgroupid=142217514411&rlsatarget=pla-1405282543919&abcId=9300867&merchantid=6995734&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ef64tuv-QIV2t_tCh1_DgRGEAQYAiABEgIA0vD_BwE

If the battery on your car holds its charge wel,l it should perform its job for two weeks without being top up. When my car was unused for much of the lock down, I received an email from Lexus recommending it be checked and topped up every two weeks. They mentioned switching the ignition on so 12v battery draws off the traction battery as they recommend in the manual. However, this is not helpful if you are away so if you have access to a power point you could use a smart charger connected to your 12v battery which will keep it charged as required. It should not be one that provides more than 5A. Depending on light conditions, a 50w solar charger should help keep the 12v battery sufficiently charged for two or more weeks unless your battery is so weak it really needs replacing.

There are so many variables that it can be difficult to get all the factors the same even using the same route. I returned on Saturday last from a short holiday starting from North Devon to places in North Wales, returning by largely the same route. I drove in a slightly more relaxed manner and indeed 60 and sometimes 40 speed motorway restrictions and some stop go determined this to some extent. I kept a regular check on the fuel being used and at one point got up to 44.4mpg for a fairly short time. This reduced to 38.9 by the time my wife and I reached Llandudno were we were based but still slightly better than my previous best ever of 37. We did stay overnight at a couple of places en route. Most of this outward journey was done using High Octane Esso fuel and it seemed to make the car a little more lively. On the return journey I could only find a place doing E10. (I don't pay Motor Service Station fuel prices). But the journey was much the same as before exacerbated by many caravans, holiday trippers, Commonwealth Games traffic and with the usual lorries etc., being particularly heavy around the Birmingham area. By the time I arrived home the consumption readout had dropped to 35.6 I am not sure whether the difference was due to the preponderance of better fuel on the outward journey or other factors but it does show how consumption figurers can differ.

Certainly worth a try but be aware after reconnecting 12v battery, you may need to reset window control and maybe another thing or two. But most find this not too difficult.

I think 'banger' should more appropriately be applied to a cars condition rather than it's age. There are owners who spend a great deal on maintaining them to a very high standard or in a small number of cases rebuilding like new. We then find some of these increase vary much in value as for example an E Type, one of the DB series of Aston Martin or even my old Maserati Indy which I sold for £7K and a pretty decent one will now cost upwards of ten times that amount. Some other cars have begun to appreciate also. Of course rarity begins to become an increasing factor too. So I think the rather derogatory term 'banger' should not be made arbitrarily

Some people even think it is obscene driving a Premium Suv that cost more than they paid for their flats, even though owners may have worked hard for years to purchase such a vehicle. What I find obscene among others is the salary Garry Linaker receives, even though he does a good job; and what some soccer players make for kicking a ball, even if they do it well. Then even that is not enough, so we have some of them advertising crisps, cars or whatever. I guess it goes with democracy.

I bought a reasonably priced plate from the DVLA that suited my car many years ago and then sold it on at a profit, (the buyer of my car not being prepared to pay extra for it when I eventually sold the car to him). So encouraged by this, I bought a much more expensive plate from an approved seller with a '1' digit before the three letters. This has been on several of my cars now and has increased in value considerably. It also looks nice on the car and hides its age.

This seems to me to be insufficient in some instances/situations. For example where I lived in Kent, if the wind was blowing hard in a certain direction, a fine layer of cement dust coated everything very occasionally or drive through airborne autumn leaves that can be sucked into the filter. Before buying my Lexus I always changed or brush vacuumed my air filter annually. In view of what you say Colin, I will be examining it annually regardless of Lexus doing the servicing.

Hi Dan, Some drivers do find it a little difficult to feel confident in a larger vehicle, at least initially, so if you feel you might benefit from being accompanied by an experienced driver a few times arrange it. It's not a matter of how confident other drivers are with their cars but how you feel in yours. I have owned and driven bigger cars than the RX but found these easier to place. I note that there is a review on another thread where the tester Jayemm, who has driven many different cars, makes a point of saying the RX he tested was not easy to place. I think you grow more wary as the years go by and perhaps give other drivers a little more room and maybe drive less aggressively which is no bad thing unless you hold up others unreasonably.

Hi Bill, What you need is a Rover 10 like this one which has built in jacks that you access from within the car LOL. A near neighbour of mine when I lived in Surrey had one in his garage that hadn't seen the light of day for well over 30 years. It's probably still there. I suppose the type of chassis and extra weight would rule out such a good application nowadays. https://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/reviews/classic-rover-reviews-10hp

Do these window wind deflectors also serve to blow rain from the windows at lower speed?

Nice looking car. I have got very fond of mine although have to admit it's not one of the prettiest. You seem to have opted for the same boot protector as I bought, very good quality and happy with it.

Agreed and this aspect is true for just about all cars. I use a socket with short extension and T bar with 1/2" drive and two short lengths of tube to extend leverage to undo as garages/tyre shops sometimes over tighten. Then for final refixing I also carry a spare torque wrench and tighten in a correct pattern. Reverting to the scissor jack, it would have helped if Lexus had used a lower gear. I could produce a better handle but for the number of times it is used, I will do like others and call Rescue Services should the need arise when away from home.

At the last service I was told the front discs and pads needed changing on my RX450h. I have not done many miles since but have a longish trip coming up soon, so decided I would take a wheel off and check whether I could leave it until after my trip. Admittingly, I have never jacked any car quite so heavy hitherto and the jack for those located in various ways on through or under a reinforced sill. This meant it was a short reach making it comparatively easy to operate. However, the scissor jack locates well inboard on the RX and the means of turning as supplied is long and of small if solid section. This 'handle' although the jack was well greased, proved very difficult to operate and required so much force that it twisted about under torque. (A very feeble effort by Lexus). I am not surprised that people tend to leave it to Rescue Services to change wheel/tyre at roadside! I have a long reach trolley jack for when I do the job at home plus of course axle stands. The car has circa 45K miles and the pads will indeed need changing soon after my trip. There is minimal wear on the disc and assuming other disc shows similar wear, I will check whether I can get these machined locally and remain comfortably within spec at reasonable cost and if not buy new replacements.

Very true, I originally wanted a .2015 RX450h in silver with Ivory interior. Looked for over 2 months without success and then settled on a very nice silver one where seats and armrests were in a very pale grey that does help break up the dreary black. If you do find one you like don't take too long thinking about it. Good luck!

OP was making reference to previous generation whereas your 2019 is the slightly more economical 4 Generation.

I am pretty sure this is the man who has done reasonably priced repairs to mounts for members. His name is Brian Herridge who runs a small engineering business as Orchard Engineering Cheltenham. Suggest you contact him on 07901712988. There are threads on this but I can't find them, the search facility on this forum not making this easy!

I remember being driven in one in The Gambia in the late nineteen sixties. Not too bad on the made up roads but the last 100 or so miles were on dry laterite. The canvas didn't do a great job of keeping the dust out and by the time we reached our destination, my white shirt was entirely orange. But much worse was to come. On the return trip to Bathurst (now Banjul), the lights failed and we used a torch I had in my overnight bag to get us to a place the driver knew where he scrounged what must have been bell wire or similar. I joined several lengths of this together and wired it direct from the battery to one headlight. Well that got us some miles before smoke started to come from under the bonnet. This wire was all we had, so we added some more lengths and eventually arrived back in Bathurst, relieved to avoid being stuck on a bush .track overnight with a valuable cargo. I understand it cost our company quite a lot to get the electrics and wiring sorted. No, I wouldn't want one of those vehicles, although I did go round the off road course by Gaydon British Motor Museum in one a few years ago.

But Norfolk lacks the many and steep hills of Devon and I get about 3mpg less where I am rather than when I visit places that are flatter. So this is another of a number of factors that can affect MPG. Just for the record I have saved the very fluke best figure of 99.9mpg on my car. I don't know how I got that but it must have been down to refilling and resetting. In reality the best I have achieved is about 38 on a moderate speed run with a normal short journey showing about 27. Overall, I think about 30 - 31.