Crizco-ok

Mine is a right hand drive 2003, the steering control has several positions for the lights, the last one rotating towards the dash puts the lights in auto on / off mode. The sensor is passenger side about 2 inches from the front window and about 12 inches from the door - size of a button.

I have just done the same, but instead of a garmin, I have gone with a Raspberry Pi running OpenAuto Pro. The replacement screen does have room for expansion with VGA, rca and HDMI. I also used the GROM aux adaptor - it works well (as long as I have a CD in the drive).

I went with switching my lights over to auto and covering the light sensor. the lazy mans version

Just an update: Seems Chromecast don't work too well in cars, as well as having two Chromecasts fail, the Naviks failed also. Have to say the support from Michael of Naviks is second to none.

Try the camera in multiple places, remember it is just to stop you reversing into a wall (lol). I went for the number plate one as it was least damaging (drilled behind the plate). I love the car and still fun to drive. I can't think of any other mods, but if anyone has anything else they have done, let me know. I will take a Picture tomorrow.

Hi Neil E Well worth doing the work for the camera and the Naviks makes this so easy and the quality is crystal clear. You don't have to go over the top like me.

Now with pictures: 4 pictures: 1. To make access easier once the install was complete, I cut the boot liner. 2. Showing the rear camera and how it fits to the number place 3 and 4, showing the setup and the location of where the items are.

Hi Neil the cameras: they mount behind the number plate and you just see the camera. Less drilling through the body work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07216SXX1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7RuWCbJYX4B47 There are then three rubber holes in the boot you can pass cables through.

Ok, unsure if i can post links, so search ebay for auction number 323364525091 this is a remote relay. I stuck the clicker on the dash. and yes brought the naviks direct from the US.

Hi Everyone Wiring diagram as requested! SC430 wiring.pdf

I chose the sender I did as it is a large chunk of tin and better than the cheap things. I also needed something that did not require human intervention with an on/off switch. Regards channel, I am using 87.5 and that seems OK at the moment. Regards diagram, will dig the crayons out later (haha)

Hi Everyone, just thought I would share how I have upgraded the in car entertainment of my SC 430. First I did not want to replace or modify the dash in any way. I have seen pictures of people who have pulled the factory fitted stereos and replaced them with aftermarket kit and, just no. So the driver behind all this was to see what could be made of the factory fitted equipment. I started the design around the Naviks kit and it was a case of what can it do and how can I enhance the car. There was no real primary objective, a case of doing it because you can. Shopping list: Zyxel N300 4G LTE SIM Slot Unlocked Wi-Fi Dual Band Router [LTE3302] (Amazon) Google Chromecast (had in stock) NAVIKS 2002 - 2009 Lexus SC 430 (Z40) HDMI Video Interface (NK-2300) (Direct from NAVIKS) Rewire GPS Tracker (had in stock) 12-Way Blade Fuse Block W/Negative Bus (Amazon) 2 of AUTO-VOX Reverse Camera 480TVL Color HD Car Rear View Backup Camera (Amazon) USB Car 45W 9A 5-Port 12volt (Amazon) Veba AVFM-MOD08 Wireless FM Modulator Transmitter (ebay) Wireless Remote Control Switch DC12V-48V 2CH Relay Receiver & RF Transmitter (ebay) Heschen Timer Delay Relay H3Y-2 12VDC 0-3 Minute 250VAC 5A 8Pin terminal DPDT with DYF08 35mm DIN Rail Socket Base (Amazon) Various cables and connectors as needed Power: Starting with the need for power, in the black box on the left in the boot is a permanent supply and neutral. I took a feed from that and wired it to common and NC of the relay. Positive is a bolted connection, neutral was a strip and solder. Wired pin 18 and 17 from the Navigation ECU plug to switch the relay on when the car is started. Why a relay? The kit will pull quite a bit of current at start The above kit won't hang off pin 17/18 of the ECU plug For neatness Time delay. Pulling that amount of power at engine start and while the power has not settled down I wanted to avoid. Wired the NC from the relay and the neutral to the 12-way fuse block. Result: I had a hard wired fuse block that was switched from ignition with a delay of 4 seconds. Wired into this: Reversing camera Forward facing camera NAViks USB 12v x 5 port adaptor Veba modulator Wireless remote Rewire tracker GPS tracker: All my vehicles have GPS trackers, rewire is a standard tracker just needing a SIM card and 12v. I also use gpsgate software as it is enterprise level software and yet they give you 5 free licenses. NAVIKS: This has three inputs: HDMI, plugged the Chromecast into that, and as that needed USB, the 12v USB adaptor was used. Chromecast also needs internet. This is where the Zyxel N300 router comes in, using a 4G sim card, gives internet access and as the Zyxel is powered by USB, so plugged into the 12v USB adaptor. CAR Reversing camera: Connect the reversing camera to this with the positive of the reversing lights. AV in: Connected this to the front facing camera. Has AV out. This was connected to the Veba FM modulator with that set to an odd channel (most FM channels broadcast on even channels). The Naviks sends the HDMI and AV in to the AV out connectors. Selection button: The Naviks has a channel selector button on a shortish cable, instead of wiring all the way to the dash, I am using a wireless remote control switch. Gives me: Reversing camera Chromecast, so stream my phone to the display such as spotify, netflix (only when parked), google maps etc. Front facing camera Internet access GPS tracker I have not replaced any part of the cars original OEM equipment Not touched the dashboard Other add-ons I am considering: A NVR to constantly record both front and rear cameras where the footage can be downloaded to an Android phone. Build pictures: I did take them, but all you see as the project progressed was wires, wires and more wires. I did use cable tape to make things neat, just thought I would share what can be done.

Thanks, I knew about the window trick with the keyfob. I was thinking of something a little better than to take apart the switch of the roof open/close button and wire it to a wirelessly controlled relay. I will leave it, the car is a beaut and I will leave her that way.

Thanks for the quick response and doing the research for me 😉 and yes it is just for a gimick.

With my last car I could lower the soft-top with the cars remote control. Is there a modification to the car I can use a third party remote to open the roof as I get to the car? Thanks