JayZuuk

Hoping someone can fill in the last bit of information I'm missing. Recently been looking at throwing a supercharger onto my sportcross, jumped into it today and I think one of the fuel injectors has gone bad after some code scanning and tests. One of the recommendations anyway for installing the charger is to upgrade the OEM injectors to the 1zz-fe ones. I know the injections as standard are high impedance but before I pickup some 1ZZ ones (here is an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Injector-For-Toyota-Avensis-Celica-Corolla-Verso-MR2-1-8-1ZZ-FE-23250-22040-/353221957338?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 ) which when checked on the denso spec list ( https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/fuel-injector-data/denso-fuel-injectors/ ) come up as 13.4ohms, 255 flow & 24lb. I can't find the OEM injectors on the list though. Can someone confirm if the above advertised 1zz injectors are the ones recommended for the charger upgrade?

More of a "what happened this last week" kind of thing. Removed the decal stripe from the car, came of very easily with the extension cable and mrs hair dryer. Kept my hands warm outside too! Looks miles better now. Next day I went to start on the brakes and pads, got to the second locking nut and the key snapped, someone seriously over tightened the front drivers wheel, had to order a new set of locking nuts, wait for them to arrive, meanwhile I went to go pick up some 18mm sockets taking the locking nut I had got off with me for measurement. Got home and then cut the collars off the remaining three locking nuts, went to put on the 18mm socket forgetting I'd left the collar on the one I took with me, back to B&Q for some 17mm sockets! After a relaxing brew I hammered the sockets onto the nuts and forced them off, back two came off fine but that front driver one took some force to crack off. Had to give everything a good clean whilst I was there, serious build up all over the place. One of the pins had started to seize on front passenger caliper, so re-lubed them all whilst I was at both hubs. The locking pins on the rear calipers had both rusted in place, and due to the excessive wear on the rear pads the pins had bent slightly. Managed to get everything out and straighten the pins close enough to standard, will be ordering some fresh pins & hardware all round I think though. Didn't think to check if my new pads came with any first. Never tried the CD player since I got the car, found some CDs and went to try it, wouldn't let me load anything. Took it out to find 6 CDs inside and some snapped pieces, I'm guessing the previous owner tried to have a fix and snapped part of the loading tray off as some of the screws for the frame were looser than the rest. Not sure if I'll eventually get another stock one or fit something newer in it's place. Got everything back together & noticed the tread had gone on the rear tyres, this was late Thursday evening. Flew down to get two fresh rears but could only order them for late afternoon, had to shift my MoT to today. Just checked online and it's passed! Now waiting for a call to go pick it up.

Just replaced the Bank 2 Sensor 1 Lamba, talk about an awkward location! Just about got it done with an offset socket, ordered a standard one at first but no clearance on top to get a bar or anything into it, far too close to the firewall. Two more night shifts then planning to remove the decal stripe the previous owner decided to paste down the car & then replace all rotors and pads before MoT next friday.

If you mean specific stuff to the model/s, I'd check the main pinned post for a list of common problems people have encountered, should highlight some specifics for you to check over initially. Part history isn't ideal but you can use that to indicate stuff that really needs checking, no history for belt changes etc, top of your list etc. Hope it's an easy fix, congrats on the IS.

Bit of a weird report but I decided to order a multimeter instead of trying to borrow another one. Turned up after I had to leave for work yesterday unfortunately so drove to work, tachometer didn't even work for the 5 seconds. Got to work, turned off and back on, worked for 5 seconds. So i'm leaning more on the battery as suggested. Drive home, tachometer works and no oil or rear light bulb lights....all the way home. Left car as is, didn't manage to get round to checking the battery before work so left for work and yet again tachometer works all the way there with no oil or rear bulb lights, however the ECU comes back on. Nipped to the car on my break, battery showing 12.4v turned off on the new meter, okay so the battery seems fine, kept it connected for starting up and slowly turning on multiple things such as lights, ac, seats etc and it was all fine didn't drop too low for CCA on start up either, tachometer working again whilst doing this. Poked around the engine and noticed that one of the connections for the driver side radiator fan was hanging loose, no idea how or why, plugged it back in reset my ECU on the small chance it's setting off my code somehow. Not had any of the lights or issues on the way home, so I literally cannot say what has caused the issue or fixed it, the ECU i'll have a better idea of in the next day or so but right now i'm more confused than when I started!

Ah that's a great table! Thanks, i'll ask around and borrow a second meter soon as I can to double check and post back.

Didn't want to start a new topic with this being on the first page but if I need to start a fresh one just let me know. Recently whilst driving the ECU came on, ordered myself an OBD scanner which displayed P0155 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfuntion (Bank 2 Sensor 1). Was planning to look at how to fix/test this next weekend when i'm off however after finishing work last night and starting the car I have encountered the same issue as OP. Tachometer didn't budge, MPG not reading, oil light & rear light all happened at the same time. So I did some searching last night and this morning coming across a few posts of the same issue. https://www.my.is/forums/f115/tachometer-problem-437096/ this one having the most discussion/related information to my issue. I double checked the oil this morning along with all rear lights, everything spot on. I double checked the ECU, still only showing P0155. The negative battery terminal was looking pretty nasty so I unhooked it all, cleaned both terminals and connectors then threw it all back together. Still having the problem but of course the ECU etc was wiped, so I'll have to wait for the code to come back to fix that sensor fault. Went round and checked the fuses, all looks fine, nothing black or blown. Decided to check tachometer again to see if one had come loose or anything. Success! or so I thought for 5 seconds, now when I start her up the tachometer works, I have no oil or rear light error for all of 5 seconds then all three die/display on me. Shut it down, tried again this time giving a solid rev but same thing happens. I've checked the volts at the battery, giving 11 turned off and 13 after starting up. Hopefully someone can give me some advice on what to do next, i'm fresh out I think now. Need to fix the inside driver handle yet too 😅