H3XME

I just had a quick look for some parts. IS250 slider pins will fit IS220 and iS200D as well. The caliper carrier bracket is the same and that's where the pins go so it's fine. The best way to get them out is simply by getting vice grips on them or pliers and pushing them out, or using a hammer/rubber mallet to bang them out. Yours might be seized in pretty bad like mine were so I was hitting it with a rubber mallet for a while until they came out. Oh and lots of WD40. It's not difficult or fiddly at all, just annoying since they're in solid at this point.

There you go then. A lot cheaper fix than I thought it would be. Get new slider pins and get the old ones out. Good thing is you can do that without removing the calipers fully so you don't have to bleed the system again. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-REAR-CALIPER-SLIDER-PINS-GUIDE-KITS-FITS-LEXUS-IS250-I300-2013-BCF0001CX2-/264429713173?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 ^ couldn't find ones for IS220D. Not sure if they're different.

They are expensive, but luckily you don't have to do it very often at all. Denso Iridium plugs for the IS250 > Part No. IKBH20TT https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/denso-spark-plug-ikbh20tt I'm due new plugs too.. Car is on 153k now. I've been putting it off for a while but the weather is nice so might do it one of the days in the near future.

More specifically I live in Birmingham. Not a great area. Insurance just drops for everyone when they hit 25 and have a clean record. GT86 cost me £2k to insure at 21.

Sorry to jump on an old thread. I was looking at getting IS350 from a few importers here and they were all quoting on the road price of around £6k for IS350 with 60-70k miles. It's definitely a good price if you're after something that moves a bit better. You're essentially getting a 350Z with 4 doors. I know you can get the JDM 4 door skyline with VQ35 or Infinity G35 but they look crap compared to the 2IS. The only thing that would bother me personally is the fact they were never offered with a manual transmission. JDM cars get easily converted to MPH. You will only create confusion with odometer. Say you get one with 60k miles - 100k km. From the point of converting it you will run miles so it will be a mixture. I had this with my Forester which was an Australian import (indicators on the right side stalk etc). Original speedo with max speed of 220km except when you were doing 60, it was actually 60mph rather than 60kmh. Odometer was 101k which was a mixture of miles and KM and since I was the first owner since it's been imported, i can only guess how accurate it was, but never bothered me.

The insurance isn't that bad. I'm 25 and pay £500 year for insurance on my IS250.

If I had a 4k budget and was set on a Lexus, I'd be considering GS450h or similar hybrids. Diesel is not the way to go. Japs are good at making petrol engines. If I had to buy a diesel, I'd be looking the German way. I think we can end this thread on one thing. DO NOT BUY DIESEL LEXUS. In the long run, IS250 will work out cheaper due to mechanical reliability and MPGs aren't too bad if you try hard enough. I filled up this morning, 99 Momentum from Tesco (as always) and drove 6miles to work. Town & dual carriageways. Got to work with AVG 30.4mpg according to the computer. So being economical is possible, but where's the joy in that? I've got a nice exhaust I want to hear. 😂

First of all. There are no 'good ones'. There's a reason why this was the first and the last diesel they made. They're just unreliable compared to other diesels or the superior petrol versions. And second.. £1600 is a very average going rate of ISD's with 100k+ Miles, but again.. Most come with issues. This is why IS250s generally cost more even if they have more Miles than 220/200D's. I think he just got unlucky and should demand his money back since the car isn't as advertised because clearly it's not "spot on".

Not necessarily. I had a few cheap cars that were spot on or at least I knew what I was getting but never got scammed. I got my 250 for £1600 and it's been nothing but perfect. Mechanically. Market for these cars is weird. Prices vary too much

Sounds like you have a problem with sticky calipers. Rear ones are especially prone to it. They need to be greased up. I recommend doing it asap. If they were able to remove the calipers they're not too bad. My rear one was so bad I had to spend almost an hour hitting it with a rubber mallet. I don't think anyone ever greased it until me.

Well, from a quick google, it seems like traders aren't allowed to sell cars "as seen". "When you buy a used motor vehicle from a trader, you are making a legally binding contract, which is covered by the Consumer Rights Act 2015. ... Traders must not mislead you, perhaps by using phrases such as 'sold as seen' or 'no refunds', or by failing to disclose that the vehicle was previously damaged in an accident." "As a trader, misleading consumers by using phrases such as “Trade Sale – Sold as Seen” or “No Refunds” is not only illegal but also completely voids the contract. The only occasion whereby this term could possibly be used, is for private sales."

They are the same calipers, both using same 310mm brake discs. If you don't mind me asking. Why do you need to replace the caliper? I went to my local dealership for my airbag recall last year and they did a safety check of the car. I've been told to replace all 4 calipers as they were defective. Turned out they weren't defective as such when I had a look myself. Brake caliper slider pins were seized because they need greasing up every 6-12 months. And because they were seized, the caliper wasn't moving like it's supposed to. (Dealerships don't fix things, they just replace things) Maybe it's worth checking the pins and either re-greasing them or getting new ones from eBay for less than £20. I had to get new ones because they looked like the previous owner never greased them and they were past the point of just re-greasing.

Not sure what to suggest other than cleaning filters and such, so sorry for not being very helpful. 23mpg is what I get around town in my manual IS250 and I don't exactly drive it like a grandad. I would maybe consider going back to the dealer or returning the car altogether because you've got 14 days to do so these days. Clearly it's not more economical than a V6 petrol that does 23-27mpg around town (depending on driving) and 41+MPG on the motorway with cruise control at 74mph. IS250's are A LOT more reliable. I got mine with 128k miles for £1600 almost two years ago. It's on 151k now, never had any issues, touch wood. The only downside is the £500/year tax but if you look for '55 plate IS250s or any year Automatics, they will be around £250/300 so similar to your diesel.

I never tried to do anything with maps as it's never gonna be as good as Google maps, but I have a similar issues when i try to play music from a CD.. List of tracks shows up on the display, but it won't play. Volume control digits disappear as well at that point, so something isn't right. Normal bluetooth/aux/FM audio works as it should though. Never bothered me much, but it is the one thing that never worked in my ownership.

Looks super clean! Nice car. Shame there isn't anything much you can do in terms of power on these (other than getting a turbo-kit for 2JZ-GE but these engine aren't as strong as GTE engines so don't take boost very well stock), but if you're not fussed about that, happy days! Love the colour.

You might be better off installing Vland headlights... the light output improved immensely without bothering other drivers as they are proper headlights designed for the purpose.

I had nothing to do one of the nights so drove into the city centre and took a few pics. Not too bad for a phone camera if I may say so myself😅

No idea. Let's organise a meet? I see you're from the South. I'm from the Midlands.. We'd have to see where everyone is from and do something small-ish at a country pub or similar.

Unplug everything from the amp and plug it back in. Funny thing is, my subwoofer gave up a few weeks ago. Audio was intermittent too.. At first, there was no base, and then the whole audio system was on and off. Replaced the sub (got it from a scrapyard), everything works perfectly. Doesn't make sense as to why it would affect the whole audio system, but it did. However, if the garage said they'll fix it, there's no point brain storming here 😛

Hi, There is generally nothing wrong with these. The only common "fault" is sticking/seized brake calipers, particularly the rear ones. Washers that go over the slider pins in the calipers just deteriorate over time. They also need re-greasing, ideally once a year for a peace of mind. Mine were really bad when i bought the car. Couldn't change the pads because I couldn't take the calipers off. It took some hammering with a mallet and prying the pins out. New pins cost me less than £20 on eBay and it's been great since. Easy DIY job to be honest. You can find out easily when you jack the car up and put it in neutral. If you can freely spin the wheels you're good to go. Another thing, although may not be as common as the above. My Mark & Levinson subwoofer died after 13 years of use. Best way to diagnose that is to plug your phone in via AUX and put a bass-ey song on. You will hear it rattling at first, and over time it would come on and off intermittently until it stopped working completely. Got a new one from a scrapyard for less than £100. Other than that, I had nothing wrong with my manual IS250 that is on 151k miles now. Suspension bushes are still in good condition too. BTW, the engines are quite bulletproof if you stay on top of oil & filter changes (1 year or 8k miles which ever comes first).

I've never had this issue. My '08 is on 151k miles now and it gets driven like something a lot sportier if you know what I mean. I change my oil every 6-8k miles and use 5W30 HKS synthetic oil. However, when my friend was buying his '07, it would rattle for few seconds when starting cold (could've been the chain). His was on only around 80k miles.. changed the oil and it went away after a few weeks. I'm not sure if that's related to the vvti though..

Boats

@b4u2 not sure if your question has been answered, but I'm also 25. Insurance for my 08 IS250 Manual came to £500 when I renewed end of last year. Online quotes were all over £1k for me. I then picked up my phone and called Adrian Flux - quoted me £670. Ended up calling GreenLight and they offered me a full comp for £520ish. No extra costs for modifications, so a perfect deal for me. I will never use an online insurance quote again. It's always a lot cheaper over the phone. They offer discounts for being a club/forum member too. BTW I've been with Flux for years and they also don't charge extra for certain mods. Never had an issue, but last year just happened that GreenLight were cheaper. All that being said, I never had an accident, (touch wood) so I wouldn't know what they're like when something happens, but yeah, I'm happy with both Flux and GreenLight simply just because it's all about money.

The OE replacement Exedy clutch feels a bit better than standard, but I've never driven the car with a fresh Lexus clutch as this was the first clutch change in it's whole life. It's a bit more aggressive, just overall better feeling compared to the stock clutch before it started slipping. We'd have to drive each other's cars to figure this out to be honest.

Might be related to the sensor when de-pressing the clutch if it doesn't react? There's no other reason as to why it wouldn't start if you say the battery is good.