H3XME

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202110018016214 "Good condition in & out"... my a*s. You can see from low quality pictures that it's quite rough, inside & out. £5k is a bargain for a car like this with less than 100k on the clock, but it doesn't look loved at all. Anyone knows what "VGRS & PCS" is? They say in the advert that its got VGRS & PCS light on.. Unfortunately it seems like low mileage doesn't always mean good condition at all. I'm not sure how that garage has such good reviews if they're selling a car like this. I'd at least try to get rid of/fix the faults on the dash if not the body work and interior.

Crap. I didn't mean to post it in the 2IS forum. Sorry admin.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202110018016214 "Good condition in & out"... my a*s. You can see from low quality pictures that it's quite rough, inside & out. £5k is a bargain for a car like this with less than 100k on the clock, but it doesn't look loved at all. Anyone knows what "VGRS & PCS" is? They say in the advert that its got VGRS & PCS light on.. Unfortunately it seems like low mileage doesn't always mean good condition at all. I'm not sure how that garage has such good reviews if they're selling a car like this. I'd at least try to get rid of/fix the faults on the dash if not the body work and interior.

Hi, I have. No issues, just use the thicker sticky pads from Halfords. They sell thin ones and thick ones. If you use the thin ones, the plate is too sprung and tends to unstick because the bumper isn't flat if that makes sense. It's quite round.

RAYS - Volk Racing TE37 wheels.. very popular within the GT-R R35 & Jap community in general. RAYS do other designs too, check it out 🙂

I'm not sure, it's meant to have better cleaning properties for your engine, but I'm not rich enough to fill up with V-Power regularly, especially when I go through a tank a week.. Tesco Momentum 99 is what I use and have been for years. Still a high octane fuel, so it should be the same stuff. I'm sure Shell just have the upper hand in terms of marketing.

That's really nice! Shame there's nothing "F" about my car, so wouldn't feel right using them 😄

They have, I don't know their names but there is at least 3 cars I've seen with these XE30 bumpers. You can get it on eBay from Europe, costs about £700

You're more than welcome to!

Axle stands will do as the exhaust ends by your rear wheels. You don't have to go too far under the car. It can, but it's expensive really.. not worth doing it. Honestly, driving to Birmingham from London and pay me would cost you more than having someone local do this for you. Like I said, a shop shouldn't charge more than 1h of labour which is less than £100 dude 🙂 But I don't mind helping anyway.. up to you. I just think it'd be more hassle for you to come up here.

Strange, I've got VLANDs on the front and back, plug and play. No faults on the dash at all. Sorry, wish I could help.

Right, so I've got the HKS axle-back, I'm confident in saying I was the first one in the UK to run this system. Everyone compliments on how good it sounds and that it's not obnoxious. It's got an amazing deep tone that comes to life under load at 2500rpm and no drone on the motorway. That being said.. Sometimes I do wish it was a little bit louder, BUT 1) it will drone on the motorway 2) resonator delete would make it raspy and horrible - you'll lose the deep tone of it that makes it so special compared to other systems 3) the only way to do this would be secondary catalytic converters delete (this is probably the best option and I am still considering doing it but when i do, there is no going back..) Resonator delete - horrible raspy sound that will turn your V6 more so into a bad I6 Muffler delete - good tone, but VERY loud - on the plus side.. it's reversible. Take your mufflers off on your drive and check out the sound. Cost effective decision maker. Fitting takes about 30minutes once the car is in the air. Easy DIY, only a few bolts and exhaust hangers. My friend is looking into getting a new exhaust for his IS250 as well.. He's from Leicester and exhaust shops quoted over £500 for backbox delete on this car. It's an insane amount of money for a couple of straight pipes. I can imagine London prices will be even steeper. It's best to just buy the HKS system in my opinion. At least you know what you're getting and the quality of it is amazing too.

Yeah I mean for the likes of the Forester, clutch pedal (spring) started playing up, battery & alternator as well.. Then one morning ball joint was noisy so I had to change that as well.. all in it was a good car, but like i said. If it's not getting regular enough use, it starts to break down because it's crying for attention 😂

Not so relevant but, it's weird how this works, I've had some cars before I wouldn't use often at all. Prime example was my Aussie import 2000 Forester. I was driving the car for a couple of months when I first got it to get familiar with it, but once I parked it up and started using it once a month or so, it started developing gremlins. Happened with other cars too.. I feel like if you don't use a car, it starts breaking on its own 😂

What do you mean by rear cat? You have 2 cats on the headers and then 2 more on the Y-Pipe. Are you talking about the resonator (circled in red)? There are cheap enough second hand factory systems on eBay, but if you fancy replacing the resonator by your local exhaust shop, it will be just as quiet. Deleting the resonator completely won't make that much of a difference to noise, so whatever replacement you get will be good. I wouldn't be paying more than £250 for that though, local exhaust shop to me charges £180 for secondary cat delete (circled in yellow) and that's two pipes. I feel like garages tend to rip people off with nicer car despite exhaust being an exhaust regardless of whether it's a Lexus or Peugeot.

the later models 11+ have bluetooth music so infotainment is probably the only better thing as everything else is mainly aesthetic I believe. If you are going for 11+ F-Sport, then I'd suggest getting one with DRLs as it makes the car look a lot newer, however pricing is so odd at the moment, I'd be looking at 2013+ (XE30 new shape) IS250 as you can scoop those for similar money to XE20 F-Sports.. 2014 IS250 - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202110068176740 2011 IS250 F-Sport - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202109117254777

Wobble bolts are the worst thing you can do 😂 Proper PCD converting hub-centric spacers are the way to go.

Track & well known B road experience. You know when the car is pulling away when you go too fast, you don't push past it. It doesn't leave room for error at all, it's just one of those things.. if you allow room for error, you're being reserved and not pushing hard enough. Anyway, this is a conversation for another day. Going back to the topic. Tyres, it really depends on what car you have and how you drive as John mentioned above. The tyres I'm using are great on the 86 for my driving. I have the same ones on the IS250 and they don't perform as well under the same conditions & driving, but it's a different car with more weight, less power, different centre of gravity. This is now comparing apples and oranges though. Bottom line, different cars will benefit from different tyres, but driving style has A LOT to do with it.

I never had a near death experience on Primacy's, but I've always been very aware of their capabilities. Or lack of.. They were great for skidding around and having fun, but I learnt not to push them past their limits. Gradually over time I started driving as fast as the tyres would physically let me. That's when I stepped it up a notch and went up to better tyres. The car felt so much faster thanks to the additional grip. Good times. Driving fast is a learning experience that takes a long time. People tend to jump in the car and expect it to just stick to the road, but that's when accidents happen.

Depends on the application.. Michelin PS4 are definitely one of the best road tyres out there. Excellent grip and hold up good on the track too - bit of an overkill for general road user who doesn't push the car to the limit though. Nankang NS2 is a great budget tyre - perfect on a daily driver in my opinion, cheap and cheerful and I'd put them on the same spot as Landsail but I can't remember the model. I personally only run Toyo Proxes TR1 now. The old T1-R compound was not that good in terms of dry grip, but I suppose they are wet tyres. The new TR1 compound has been amazing. It's grippy enough to give me confidence on slick country lanes, but also lets me get the back end loose when I want it to - it's never unwanted. I use 225/40R18s on my IS250 on all 4 corners and I wouldn't change it, it suits my needs. Tyres are very subjective and they really depend on your driving style. Paying premium for tyres doesn't always mean they're better and the tyres are only as good as your hands / foot coordination - to an extent. I don't think this should matter to luxury Lexus owners, but for example in my GT86, the stock Michelin Primacy tyres were AWFUL (despite being a good brand). Some call them dangerous, but the best thing to do is to drive, drive and drive until you learn the limit of your tyres. If you always drive to the limit of your tyres, you'll never exit the road in an unwanted manner.

Welcome! Sweet GS300 you got. With the mileage you do, you couldn't of chosen a better car to be honest. Lexus/Toyota will take care of you in terms of thousands of hassle free miles. They're not the best cars in terms of fuel economy, but it's a small price to pay for reliability if serviced as intended 🙂

Unless they specify that interior is covered, it wouldn't be. It's just a normal wear & tear like brake pads etc.

Don't worry about the centre bore. This is why you buy spigot rings.

Only facelift and F sport had staggered wheels. 9.5 +38 gives you flush/tiniest poke on stock ride height. If you Lower the car and don't want spacers, you'll need lower offset wheels. Like et22

I had the same a couple of years ago. Same as you, the bottom wouldn't budge. Took A LOT of hammering with a rubber mallet and WD40.. Replacement pins are on eBay for less than £20. If your calipers are this bad, you won't be able to salvage the pins.