H3XME

It's like a bumper "lip" if you can call it that on a factory bumper.. I snapped mine some time ago too due to being lowered. I looked at getting new ones (it's a two piece part) but at £137 for new ones I just went for a full aftermarket lip.. Here's a link to what you might need > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153497034041 You might be able to get away with just screwing it back on with self tappers as look it just ripped the bolts/clip out. HOWEVER, it might be cracked or the bodyshop will not want to repair it for whatever reason and you'll just have to end up buying new ones and get them painted anyway. As for buffing those scratches out - no chance. That will be a full respray and filler job, you can see on pictures alone they are very deep scrapes.

Hi Mike, The best thing you can do in this situation is to go for these: https://www.fensport.co.uk/products/shock-absorber-tein-endura-pro-plus-adjustable-rear-is200d-is220d-is250?_pos=4&_sid=36bf26701&_ss=r TEIN Endura Pro Adjustable shocks. I have TEIN coilovers on my car, but as linked above, they do OE-style replacement shock absorbers too. AND they are 16 way damping adjustable (like my coilovers) There's a twisty bit at top of the shock which you can turn left or right (8 turns towards soft and 8 turns towards stiffer) to adjust the damping - basically set it to harder or softer setting (if you leave it mid-way as it comes pre-set it will be just like OE shock) and you can do that when it's installed on the car, just need to get to the shock so pull the boot carpet back to access it. No need to take it off the car and mess about like that. It's only £126 for one shock (front & rear priced the same), but it's genuine aftermarket product with warranty, none of the china no-name stuff you can get elsewhere marketed as OE product. As for springs, you can also get TEIN lowering springs ~35mm lowering but if you don't wish to lower the car, you can just get any standard replacement springs as it's still compatible with factory springs. They do fronts too, but if you don't need them, I'd recommend just getting these rears as you know it's a quality product from a known aftermarket brand.. Here's more info on the product itself. https://uk.tein.com/product/endurapro.html I'd recommend this to everyone who finds the IS250 maybe too stiff or too soft but wants to retain factory ride height & cost down.

Unless it's from Canada as people might think the car is from North America and assume it's in miles. Canada uses kilometres. If it's right hand drive, then UK is the only RHD country with miles as far as I know. Asia, Japan, New Zealand, Oz, they all use kilometres and drive RHD car. It should be simple to find out, no? Reset the trip, put google maps on. Drive somewhere, and if it google says your destination is 1mile away, your trip would say 1.6 (KM) and vice versa. You will only run into a problem if your speedo was converted as it's a common thing to do on Jap imports in the UK. JDM cars will come to the UK with KMH speedo & odo. Let's say you import a Skyline that reads 80,000km on the odo, get it converted and from that point it will be reading miles so a lot of JDM imports that have been in the UK for a while have a mixture of KM & Miles on the odo so kinda inaccurate. If you convert it and put 10,000 miles on the car, the odo will show 90,000 but that's obviously 80,000km (~50,000 miles) + actual 10,000 miles so essentially it's a 60,000 mile car but odo will show 90,000 as it's a mixture. It's annoying and I'm not sure why they don't wind the odo back to 50,000 when they convert the speedo into miles but it's not easy to do this legally for some reason I don't think. I had this on my Australian imported Subaru Forester. Car was reading in kilometres for the first part of its life. Then it came to the UK and the speedo was converted to miles, but ODO was mixed from that point forward. It was on 101,000 but I couldn't tell how much of that was actually Kilometres. I just knew that whatever distance I covered was registered in miles.. I don't think I would bother doing this with a JDM imported IS350 for example as our cars have both mph & kph on the speedo. So I'd keep it original and the odo would register kilometres to avoid confusion but obviously not every car has it like this. The forester's cluster (speedo) was showing only KM so the speedo shows 220 (as it's meant to be KPH) but would hardly get past 110 as it was reading miles at that point. Quite depressing as you'd never get past half of the speedo range🤣 I hope it's clear

Used to be a few years ago but I just checked. It's £2000 for a full rebuild with a 20,000 mile / 1 year warranty 🙂 As far as I know, we never got the 5 spoke 350z wheels here in the UK. I always see them in America.. must've been a different option/spec.

Even the rebuild is cheap to be honest! ~£1000 rebuild is still a lot cheaper than a regular 4 cylinder. I had RX8 wheels on my Soarer... they were okay but nothing amazing. I wouldn't really care if it's only your winter wheels.. 350Z wheels are not 5 spoke so.. Try something aftermarket? Whatever is cheap.. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/378543990906320 These Mazda wheels are quite nice looking - very Lexus style.. but not 5 spoke > https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/399250551972234

You can get RX8 wheels if you want 5 spoke. They are pretty much the same specs as 18" IS250 wheels. 18x8 ET50 - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1095421717760405 Those are very cheap in the UK - Maybe worth paying the shipping to get them if you can't get them cheap by you.

That's absolutely fine. It's quite a good spec for cars on stock suspension to be honest. It's close to factory specs too, so it's definitely just an automated message - maybe because they're 19s but I wouldn't have any worries about this. It's a good size. Rear tyres are too wide for my liking, but in terms of fitment, it's a 0 issue setup.

Rolling the arches won't make the wheels stick out less. You only roll them to stop the wheels from rubbing on the arch. What specs are these wheels? It can also just be the fact that they're different sizes to what the manufacturer puts on the car therefore it automatically says it needs modifications. Could be like an automated thing. If you put my specs in it would say it needs modifications too but it doesn't.. Depends how much you lower the car.

To be honest, springs and shocks get tired over the years / miles.. Even if yours was stock, if it's on original suspension it would be lower than brand new car. It just sags over time

No idea exactly. At least 4.. That's with standard 17s.. 19s will fill the arch more so it will look lowered in terms of arch gap but because they're 19" they will also increase the ground clearance. So arch gap is smaller but gap under your car is bigger

Caymans aren't, but 911 are.. Carrera 4, they are around 30k still though😬

Look, if you're going to go through hoops to turbo this car, I wouldn't worry about stupid cats. The 2 secondary cats you can remove and still pass the MOT. Now, if you're going to turbo it, you might just about get away with no cats because it won't be so bad on emissions. Worst case scenario, take it to a modified friendly MOT garage.. nobody will ever suspect it's catless because catless turbo cars are a lot quieter than catless N/A cars. I think the only issue you'll run into is reliability & space. High compression engines don't like boost and you'll be bending rods or more. I would definitely be up for seeing this or even helping you out as I see you're from the midlands too.. could be an interesting experiment but the lack of people that done this across the pond makes me think it's not something quite worth doing, but then again why bother turboing this when they can have IS350 OR a supercharger from RR Racing.

I'm 99% sure anti-roll bars are the same across the range. 250/350/ISF.. It's probably the new bushes that made a difference. Cusco do thicker ones - 30mm vs stock 27mm I think and 19mm rear compared to 17mm rear. Front 30mm Sway bar part no. - 199 311 A30 Rear 19mm Sway bar part no. - 983 311 B19 There is a few companies in the UK that get Cusco from Japan.. They are the same thickness are TRD ones but those are considerably harder to get - Cusco ones are still available new. Sway bars would definitely make a very noticeable difference because despite improving the body roll by being on coilovers it could still do with less of it. I have been eyeing up Hardrace lower control arm bushes (linked) for quite some time now.. I might actually get them before I get camber adjustable top arms.

+1 @Lex_utor 9J ET15 is too low of an offset, unless you're lowered by quite a bit. on factory suspension, 9.5J ET38 slightly pokes out of the arches (and looks bad) - 9J ET15 will sit 16.7mm further out so it will look horrendous and be illegal. You would need to lower the car by 40-50mm to make it fit properly. I'm on 9.5J ET16 on the rear, which would poke out only 5mm more than 9J ET15 but I am ~60mm lowered. in simple words, 9J ET15 will "fit", but it will look stupid and it will poke out a lot on factory ride height. As for tyres, I agree with Lines. Square setup is the way to go. 225/40 is a happy size on the 250.

To be honest with you, there was no changes to the drive shafts across the years so I don't see any upside to buying used from US when you can buy a used from a pre-facelift UK car. It's cheaper, you won't have to pay any duties, you can return it easily should you need to and you don't have to wait weeks to get it. The driveshaft is in Walsall, around the corner from me. You can even drive up from Herefordshire if you really want to.

Since this is not a common fault, and likely caused by pothole or such like @Linas.P mentioned. I'd just get a used one for £33... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324991547545 it's roughly an hour's worth of work to change it for a garage, so it wouldn't cost you a lot. @Eri2Fiddy

100% I remember my dad telling me that he'd be putting bags of sand in the boot for winter to get better traction 😂 it does work!

I agree. People rely on these luxuries too much these days.

Tbh if you want good tyres cheap, you should have rims to run 225/40R18 tyres as they're the most popular size therefore cheaper than other sizes

Yeah to be honest, I was driving my 86 to work when we had a snowfall in 2018, and it being very light rwd car on summer tyres it wasn't the best but still managed to get up hills better than majority of other cars. There's a quite big long uphill dual carriagway to where I used to live at the time and going up it was quite fun.. Had run up, and when I was 80% there I started slowing down but with traction control fully off, I was able to spin through the snow - I was gently bashing it off the rev limiter at 7500rpm but because it has a limited slip differential, both wheel would lock up so I would still go straight. And again in 2020, I was driving the Lexus then and I didn't have much of an issue as the car is almost 400kg heavier, but the traction control off & limited slip diff saved the day. Was able to get everywhere I needed to, little slower than AWD cars but it managed unlike other 2 wheel drive cars. Skinny tyres help in the snow! This is a bit of a problem these days as cars are getting bigger and the traction control isn't very good on snow, it kicks in too soon - some cars you can't even turn it off so I'd have no chance getting anywhere the way I was doing it.

Eric, I'm not saying the EZ30 Legacy is slow, I'm just saying it can't compare to everything only because it's AWD and has almost 250hp. (>Supposedly.. Subaru, like other manufacturers tend to be figure happy on paper. Stock BRZ/86 isn't 200hp either like they claim. - I had it dyno'd when it was stock) Either way, it is still more powerful/better than most cars on the roads even today. Your AWD system will significantly help you in bad conditions, otherwise it's arguable. You will also take corners differently to me, you can't step on it mid corner to "tighten" the line or it'll want to understeer/ naturally take wider line because of your almost evenly split power delivery. On dry tarmac racing you will find your Subaru to be not as good as RWD cars or AWD cars with better split between rear wheels. BMW X-Drive, Skyline GT-Rs... They can all send up to 95% power to rear wheels. If you prefer AWD, fine, it's a preference. It sure does make you feel like nothing (or a lot less) can go wrong as you can drive fast more relaxed because it can save your a*s like a safety cushion. A lot of people with RWD cars are guilty of over-tyre-ing their cars because it makes them feel safer, but it ruins the handling of the car. Whatever you're comfortable with, but coming at me saying my car is sh*t, not knowing anything about its suspension, alignment, brakes or tyres and the purpose of the setup is a silly thing to do. One thing is sure though, less than 15mins of driving to the max on twisty B roads and you're done with the Legacy because you'll cook the brakes.

I'd go fuse no. 12 under the steering wheel. That'd be my first thing but I don't see how anything working properly could blow it up.

I spent more on road tax now than I paid for the car 🤣

I'd try fuse?