H3XME

Your MPGs will improve noticeably if you lose the standard 255 rear tyres. Absolutely no need for them. 225 or 235 on the back at most. It will also improve the drivability of the car. It's so dull with 255s.

SE doesn’t have them but some cars come “pre-wired” for other stuff could just be a replacement pin. Putting them in is simple. Getting them out can be a PITA as they’re normally seized if not greased up regularly. the car had a front end ding. All the front end abnormalities don’t shock me. And front parking sensors were an option on all trims. You’ll find SELs without them too.. my SE had rear ones

The bigger “bolt” is a brake caliper slider pin. The smaller one I recognise I just can’t remember. harness by the fog light plug can be for the headlight washer jets. I don’t know about the rest. Seems like someone bodged everything

There aren’t any tbh😅 potentially Soars Performance in Wiltshire. He does IS200s but dabbles in other Toyota/Lexus too

Yeah for sure. Engine sounds healthy enough. It’s probably something simple and stupid that’s thrown the errors. It’s always a ballache to find the cause though sadly

I'd do it through my insurance.. chip it, claim on insurance and they'll do it for £75 excess or whatever it may be for you. It cost me only £75 in excess and didn't affect my insurance. It's not a "claim" as such.. I mean it depends if you have a windshield cover too.. otherwise I don't know. It seems like it already is a lemon, but whether it's too far gone is a different matter. I couldn't say. I never had any issues like that with neither of my 3 IS250s and two of them were £1600..the last one was £2800 but yeah, I can't help you with diagnosing them. Linas has more experience fixing issues.

I see.. There's a leak somewhere. I'm convinced the windshield hasn't been done properly if the moulding around the window is missing. Some cowboy job. Oil is a bit tricky, it's in an angle so you should be looking at the drier side of the stick. Get it out, wipe it, put it back in and pull out, then look. It's filthy though.. needs new oil & filter. Wouldn't be a bad idea to run an engine flush through it before you change it.

Tbh, some errors go away after 10min of driving or so. After disconnecting the battery. You can't really drive it now, so it's gonna be hard to tell. Engine sounds fine, no rattle. It's a bit loud though. Has it got an aftermarket exhaust? Might just be the video though. They never do it justice

Yes, around the edge of the liner. Around the boot light etc.There is like 3 or 4 2" strips of velcro. Not the full length.. just enough to hold it up. Yeah ofc, it's a slow process.. realistically, no normal person built a car over a weekend.. Definitely focus on fixing the faults + maintenance. Do everything you can. Spark plugs, PCV valve, oil & filter, water pump. I don't know what your service history is like but do those bits first as prevention. PCV valve you might not even need to buy a new one if it still holds pressure, you can do a balloon test once you properly cleaning up with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Easy to get to as well. You only need 19mm? spanner. Can't remember the size but it's something like 19.

Honestly, there is almost no point buying stuff like this new. You will most likely overpay and it's a lot easier to make a full list of everything you need and go to a breaker. There's a couple around Brum so luckily for you not too far. Just message them (you can find them on FB Marketplace or eBay) and when you go there just take everything you need. They won't charge a lot.. I got everything I could from breakers. Amp, 2 subwoofers, a complete interior etc. Mechanical parts I wouldn't really buy used like that.. As for the coils, sell them and buy OE shocks or better coils if you wanna lower it because you can see just from the shape of them the shock reservoir is too short. Proper coils go all the way to the bush, having more suspension travel, comfort etc. Cheap suspension is the worst quality of life "mod". Good coils will feel almost like stock suspension in the comfort department. TEIN Flex Z cost around £800. Really can't go wrong with them. I don't recommend the more expensive BC Racing stuff because they're not very road friendly. I had both and TEIN have a much much better ride quality on daily/street driven cars compared to BC.

Breakers yard.. mind you the clips themselves dont do much. It’s the Velcro strips that go a bit ****ty. Mine sagged on 2 out of 3 cars and it’s always been the velcro strips. Just buy a roll and stick it on

Water pump will be due at 100k... look for coolant leaking around thermostat / water pump etc. Either way, if it's never been done, I suggest you buy a new genuine pump for £160 and get it replaced. it's not a bad DIY job, just a bit messy when draining the coolant.

It could be. Letting the moisture in. When they replaced my windshield they re-used my moulding/trims & clips and at 60mph+ I'd hear wind noise in the cabin.. They replaced it later when I noticed but it took 3 weeks to get as Lexus had none in stock. If his AC works then the car should de-mist in a matter of seconds if he puts it on the window setting.

Sorry i read it wrong 😂 you said left & right panel. Not pedal

All the bits you're missing are very cheap, but it's more so what they all represent as a whole. Somebody's bodge job. Engine covers, fair enough, I threw mine away as well, but the pedal and washer nozzle? That's just weird.. mind you washer nozzle could probably be explained by the front end ding it had. Pedal covers baffle me though lol. eBay is your fried, or ideally just message someone who's breaking a full car (eBay/FB Marketplace) as individual parts on eBay are priced too high for some reason. Focus on the sensors, ignore everything else. That's the main thing to "worry" about now. EDIT: It might be a good idea to take it for a pre-MOT inspection as it runs out in less than 2 months.. gives you some time to actually fix the absolute necessities. Should there be anything need doing.

It's an SE so not ASF. My vlands were compatible with the levelling barrel on the dash, so should be ok. Yeah congrats. Fingers crossed you didn't buy a lemon.

I don’t want to be negative but it’s been “modified”, so most likely molested along the way and now it developed a fault. Sure it can be a simple matter of a bad sensor but it’s a bit of a reg flag for me personally 🙃

Like Linas said. Not a common thing that sensor.. shocks are expected to go at certain mileage. Not an issue.. Have you seen this one? It's in Wolverhampton, not far from brum.. autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202409023546966

I think at this point, I’d just settle for a dark grey SE-L for £2500… MOT history is decent, it’s got a full service history and interior swap is a matter of £300 and one afternoon. No point waiting for a spec that might not even come up for sale.. www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202407302308446

Agreed. My green 250 got an advisory for rusty subframes. It was surface rust, it wasn’t rotten, but being a 2006 car it will have some rust. Not all rust is bad… both subframes are visible from under the car. Not really hidden behind plastics, which also means it’s one of the parts to be exposed 24/7 to the elements..

After stating this, why would anyone go for the diesel? You'll get over 40 from the is250 on the motorway at 70mph.. 220d is such a bag of sh!t there really is no point in buying it over the 250.

It's illegal, but the worst thing that can realistically happen is you failing the MOT... so it's not your 6 point, a fine and a seized car kind of illegal.. but yeah.. you'll most likely fail MOT on emissions. If you decide to go down that route, I'd suggest looking up some diesel tuning garages.. they can remove it and tune the car properly so it doesn't smoke when you put your foot down.

Typical thing to hate about new cars. They feel restrictive in that aspect.. whether it's justified by safety or not, it's becoming annoying. I had a courtesy car a couple of weeks ago when I went in for a full service and that UX was awful. I tried to turn off as much as possible, but it ruined the drive for me.

Well it's a diesel... if you don't venture out on the motorway then it's the wrong car for you by design. You can do a DPF & EGR delete (you will fail emissions unless you know a friendly MOT tester though). Common issue on diesels across the board if not driven as intended (i.e. motorways). The DPF needs regular "cleaning" and you'll only really achieve that by motorway driving where the catalytic converter gets up to temp and all the soot burns off.. it doesn't get a chance to do that around town.

I have swapped an interior of my old IS250 because it was cream microsuede (sport model) so not only everything was really dirty, but the seats also smelt really bad and I didn't like it anyway. Found a breaker and part exchanged my interior with some cash for the black leather interior from a facelift car and used 3rd gen (IS300h) front seats to go with it all. It's all very easy to swap over. Everything just pops out, and is very easy to put back together. As for the seats, you will most likely be missing some plugs, so without being able to wire it all up, somehow, it's not gonna be a straight forward job. I went from heated electric seats to heated manual seats from the IS300h. Also, just so you know.. electric seats don't go as low as manual seats. Something to keep in mind if you're tall and like to sit a bit lower. I'd suggest taking the seats out, it's just 4x (14mm IIRC) bolts and see what plugs you have available. If you have some blank ones, shouldn't be an issue. If there's nothing, well.. there's your answer. Might just have to go for IS300h front manual seats. They look better. Although I never quite figured out why the heat didn't work. Passenger side plugged in, but didn't work, and driver's side was a different plug for some reason..