H3XME

I see. Thanks Vlad!

It wouldn't be unusual. My secondary cats died at ~140k on my last IS250. De-cat time! Secondary decat will let you pass emissions if it's tested hot.

Yes it can cause a variety of issues if the O2 sensor is reading incorrectly due to the blow. O2 sensor spacer? I presume by that they mean blanking it off, so you'll get rid of the code, but that doesn't fix the issue.. Take it to an exhaust shop and have them look for a hole and get it fixed. Should be cheaper than a new O2 sensor. Mine did the same thing a couple of weeks ago, I got bad blow coming somewhere from the under my feet, sounds like its near the secondary cats which is near the O2 sensor so I'm going to get mine fixed too.

Do you live around Tipton by any chance? Think I saw your car there before 😄

Hard to say, but 3 years and 50,000 miles later still fine.

http://justjap-imports.co.uk £7800 for 64k Miles is decent but the seats aren't cloth. They're microsuede. Cloth seats were on base specs. Mine came with this microsuede and they are so soft and comfy it's ridiculous. Just shame it's not black. Just for the sake of doors and seats I wouldn't bother buying one from Japan.. I'd just buy black seats from a UK car for £150

It is bizarre given the LBX has a longer wheel base specifically for that reason they said.

Do you think it could be possible that you're feeling that way because it was LHD? We rented a Kia ProCeed estate when visiting Europe a couple of months ago and I too felt very "cocooned" when driving, but I think it was because I was sitting on the wrong side of the car because it certainly isn't a small car. As for the legroom in the LBX, I'm not surprised tbh. This is a perfect Urban Cross-Over as per today's demands.. Not my cup of tea, I'd never go out of my way to own an SUV or Cross-Over but if someone likes it, then I think it would be good solution for town driving, doing a school run etc. I'd consider it for my other half. It's by no means a family car but I'm sure it's got a place in the market. A lot of Lexus clientele are people aged 50+, they want and can afford something nice and well built but don't need anything too big.. I think it will be a good selling car in the UK if prices would start just under 30k

yeah 100% not SE-L

My bad, my 2008 was just an SE, not SE-I. I agree, the "Sport/SR" trims should have something to be more "sporty" but in reality it had nothing to my knowledge. If anything it was basically a sport model. SR had the lip kit and spoiler at least. My '06 sport has nothing. It's like a base spec car. No, there was a handful of early facelifts available in manual (one for sale atm - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202304276736918 ) so it wouldn't be just a case of them registering it late, it was made as a proper facelift. Yea, it is annoying.

No no, my £625 quote was clutch & labour included. Clutch on its own is ~£300, but I know what you're saying. Hmm, I don't know. This is the first time I hear this. I have 2006 Sport now, and the black one was SE-I and it's exactly the same. No idea about SR, I would be surprised, but I suppose it's possible. It's like the LSD speculations. Some people say that no 2IS had LSD. Some people say say only 2010+ cars had it as an optional extra etc.. In my experience, every UK manual I've come across had a factory Torsen LSD. I've come across only one Automatic with LSD, so I would say that it's very rare and 90%+ Automatics have open diffs, but with manual I'd say most if not all UK manuals have LSD. I don't know how people try to find out, but the best way to find out is by doing a burnout. Only one wheel spins if it's open. Both wheels spin if it's LSD and you can check the tyre marks to be 100%. I'd suggest doing this on a patch of grass or when it's wet so you don't put unnecessary strain on your gearbox, especially if the car is fitted with factory size rear tyres😬 As for trying a power slide out of a corner - It's very difficult to tell if it's Open diff or LSD because even if it's open diff, it may feel like it's going sideways when in reality only 1 wheel spins. Stock suspension & big tyres don't help the case because the Torsen diff isn't anything amazing - it can be very temperamental (almost dangerous if you don't know what you're doing) because it will open and close depending on the amount of torque you send to the rear wheels. This LSD works the best when you have a foot to the floor because you're sending 100% of the torque down which is forcing the diff to lock. My car will drift a roundabout just fine now because it's lower, stiffer and on skinnier tyres - all of that helps to lock this LSD, but when it was stock it would struggle / wouldn't lock. So I understand where this confusion is coming from, but the only way to find out and be 100% sure is like I said above.. do a burnout and check tyre marks.

Agreed on the fact that auto is perhaps more suited for this car, it's not really sporty by any means in a stock form. Clutch job is £625 (just had a quote last week). Dual Mass Flywheel doesn't need changing typically - this depends on mileage and how it's been driven. They will tell you to change the DMF too just to get more money from you but if there are no heat spots or anything, there's no reason to replace it. My last 250 had its first clutch changed at 140k miles. DMF was still good on it and had it until almost 180k miles - no issues. However, DMF is around £1k from Lexus and that's the only place you can buy one, IIRC. Solid flywheels are ~£500-600 but I'd only consider this for sportier driving or whatever you wanna do with the car if you don't mind extra vibration. DMF reduces vibrations. The gearing is not weird on the petrol at all. Having driven both, manual and auto, you can drive exactly the same (5th gear at 30mph etc), the only difference is that manual petrols have 3.9 final drive which results in 2500RPM at 70mph in 6th gear which is roughly 300rpm higher than auto, but it also means it accelerates slightly better.

As above - Do NOT get the diesel. Even if by some miracle you get a good one, there will be more to fix/maintain in the long run. If you can, go for IS250. Manual is quite good, a lot of them have LSD too, it's a different gearbox and ratio to the diesel, so much better drivability but manuals cost more to tax, unless you can find '55 or '06 plate manuals - they costs as much as autos to tax. Or ideally, go for Automatic, easy to drive and hassle free, BUT they cost considerably more than manuals just because they're more sought after. After all it's Lexus, makes sense people want automatic more. I've had 3 250s over the years, always come back to them because they're good cars. I do 60miles/day commute in my manual, and like others have said, you can get ~30 in town if you're gentle on the throttle and 40+ on the motorway (I get about 43mpg at 70mph). Think of it this way, it may cost you a little more to buy the petrol, but in the long run it will be a much cheaper car to run than the diesel because all the things that go wrong on 220s are just engine related. The only common fault these two cars share are sticky calipers (or more specifically slider pins that cost £20) if you don't regularly grease them up (once a year).

Oh there is, boiling points differ & low temp viscosity is different between DOT 3,4,5,5.1 etc. This is why you wouldn't use a DOT 3 or 4 on a race car as the brakes get way hotter. Similar to road cars in winter, you'd want DOT 5.1 due to its low temp viscosity which is better for stability of ABS.

Looks really good! I've cleaned my car properly a few months ago, clay bar-ed the whole car, you'd be surprised what it picks up on a "clean" panel. The little bits you don't see show up on the clay bar. After that I gave it a good polish and waxed it with similar stuff you used, but I tend to go for AutoFinesse products (it's all pretty much the same). The shine has improved a lot! Only just now, maybe 3-4 months later it looks like it could do with some more. The only issue I find with this is that it doesn't last very long. These spray on waxes will last some time, and they do a big difference short-term, but the best way is to get is ceramic coated, otherwise you're destined to be polishing and waxing your multiple times a year. While it's satisfying when it's done, it's still a half a day chore to do it properly including washing and clay baring 😄 Paint correction & ceramic coat for 3 years normally costs around £700 on a car this size. Worth the money, if you care about the looks of your car.

Bump £180

There is a reason why everyone on this forum will tell you to stay away from the 220d if you can get the 250..similar economy, much nicer gearbox and mainly no engine issues. Any chance you can return the car if it's from a dealer? You have 30 days.

One of mine was ripped, the other 2 didn't look broken, but I'm sure the parcel shelf sun doesn't help the overheating.

Yeah, middle is how it should be. It's only on full and high volume when it causes issues over time.

Can everyone please stop getting upset over another's opinions? Yes, today's SUV's are pointless, it's an essentially lifted estate car but if one prefers it for whatever reason there's no need to start an argument. There is no right or wrong as such.

Yeah for sure. I've dyno'd N/A car before and after exhaust + intake and while it made almost 15hp more it wasn't noticeable anyway.

A/C would make a small 2hp difference but I'm sure they turn it off. Heated seats wouldn't make a difference. I'll post it up once we go.

He didn't get 186WHP though.. he got 186 at the crank and 148WHP.. This is what RR Racing show on their dyno. 161whp (~190bhp) IS250 Manual with 150k miles.. For RWD cars it's generally 15% drivetrain loss so the figure checks out. Automatics, these older ones like IS250 will have a greater drivetrain loss.. ~20% which again checks out for Bogdan and his auto 250. Figures seem correct, albeit a bit low.