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Everything posted by H3XME
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That's extortionate! In what place did it rust? Rear section is normally the first to go and that's ~£300 - many off the shelf solutions on eBay.
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IS250 - New beginning (bit of an ongoing "project")
H3XME replied to H3XME's topic in Modifications & Tuning
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165338952633 -
IS250 - New beginning (bit of an ongoing "project")
H3XME replied to H3XME's topic in Modifications & Tuning
'55 & early '06 manuals like the one I have now are in the lower bracket - same as Auto, but fair play. They're better as Auto for regular driving. go for RCF bushes, they're cheaper (around £90) and very similar, if not the same. 350Z wheels are cheap and good, looks is subjective. I'm not a huge fan of them but it'll do. Good luck with the build! -
IS250 - New beginning (bit of an ongoing "project")
H3XME replied to H3XME's topic in Modifications & Tuning
Nice! Hope you’re enjoying it so far. You got a manual? thanks, it’s not really a technical thread as a lot of it was covered elsewhere so I kinda just focused on some mods rather than maintenance etc in this thread. I’ll be selling it soon to go for another JZX but if you need any help let me know. I’d say I know these cars quite well now -
Like @Linas.P said, tyres make the biggest difference generally speaking. @McShmoopy I agree, stretched tyres are more comfy than regular tyres due to the angle of the sidewall, it flexes more. If your tyres aren't stretched, you'll find that the sidewall is pretty much straight, which is what makes it stiffer (that's why runflats are notoriously hard - reinforced sidewalls). It's not the best for absolute performance due to the sidewall flex but you will never notice this unless you're on the track. And yeah, if it's moderately stretched, say 225s on 9.5" wheels, or even similar to Linas's setup that I've seen in person, you want to run at least 44PSI (depending on how heavy the car, you might want more - like Linas) to avoid de-beading but this would occur when the tyre is extremely stressed - drifting, racing around. Normal use won't face this issue if you have say extra 8-10PSI more than what it says on the plaque in your door shut. As for coilovers. I haven't had the pleasure of driving on HKS coilovers in a Lexus. I tried them on a JZX90 and some other cars but it doesn't matter - it's not comparable if it's a different car. Look at technical specs of the coilovers you want to buy. TEIN Flex Z (damping adjustable and cost £804 new) I had on my black IS250 were very comfortable. The ride quality was better in every way than my tired stock suspension on IS250 SE after 130k miles. Comfort was retained, body roll was reduced (a little bit) and handling was improved massively. The standard spring rates of those coilovers are 8KG on front & rear. And that's what it all comes down to. Spring rates make the ride harsher. Dampers make a difference too, but it's mainly the spring. And it can't be one without the other. It works in harmony. For example my BC Racing coilovers I have now are 12kg & 14kg spring rates. It's not a massive difference in terms of comfort, but it's definitely noticeable. TEINs were A LOT nicer to drive on, perhaps not as stiff but for 98% of driving it's way better. People make mistakes by buying lowering springs to get the car a little lower, but you're putting a shorter and therefore stiffer spring on a stock strut that works in a different pace than your new spring resulting in a harsh ride. 3 of my mates went for the Flex Zs and everyone is very happy. When I first gave them a ride in the car, they couldn't believe how soft and comfortable it was. And with adjustable damping, you can make the car softer than factory. Bear in mind, the stroke is shorter, so you can't be going over speed bumps at 30mph anymore because you will bottom out, but otherwise there are no drawbacks in my opinion.
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God loves a trier 🤣 I've had 3 now. This one I only had since November last year as I needed daily after getting a 300ZX. This one needed a lot of work as it was a bit neglected, so now it looks like this. Just wanna sell it after I treat the underside and get a head unit so I can buy a JZX100 again. Thanks dude.
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I see.. Hmm then do it I suppose but it won't be cheap. How about IS250? I'll be selling mine soon. 84k, manual, 06, factory lsd, BC coils and other stuff. Next best thing after is200 and better engine.
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Selling is250
H3XME replied to ahmedali44's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
That's retarded. How can you charge different amount based on your emissions when you're PARKED. Engine OFF. 🤣 fu*king extorsion They aren't helping anything. They won't achieve anything other than revolution lol. People can't afford EVs. If you make it unaffordable to use our ICE cars then we can't get to work. And public transport excuse cannot be used because it's utter sh*te in England. Especially trains. We'll just have to see... we could debate for days on this topic. -
Hard to say without seeing it. Subframes tend to go first on these cars so it absolutely wouldn't surprise me. Bolts shouldn't be expensive so to stay on the safe side I'd order from lexus as well.. Keep the invoices, you might be able to return them if you don't use them.
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Selling is250
H3XME replied to ahmedali44's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
We might see the resurrection of ICE engines very soon. China is now going to be limiting export of some materials used to make batteries from 1st November. Germany is sueing EU about EV's being "0 emissions" when it isn't true. EV sales have been dropping increasingly everywhere.. They will realise soon they ****** up with this. -
Selling is250
H3XME replied to ahmedali44's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
Polar bears.. that's how. Backfired because it didn't sell well. I reckon we would see a lot more RCs on the road if they were available as RC350 in the UK or even 250 lol. still better than the 2.0l turbo. -
I hate to be that guy, but I'll be that guy.. why not just buy IS300? They're 3-4k. This swap seems straight forward because they came with a 2JZ from factory but it doesn't mean it's gonna be cheap, and arguably never gonna be as good as factory IS300. I'd rather just buy IS300 and eventually J160 swap it if you want manual, but putting 2JZ in an is200 doesn't make much sense financially IF you can't do the swap yourself on the drive with your mates.
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Selling is250
H3XME replied to ahmedali44's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
try adding extra 10k on both figures.. NA Autos are selling for ~20k. TT autos are 35ish and TT manuals are almost 50k lol.. I blame fast and furious! All of us growing up on those films wanted a piece of the JDM history and now the demand is crazy. I really wanted to buy a Supra (even NA Auto) when i was 17-18.. they were around 3k back then. 11 years ago! Insurance said no. But yeah, like anything else, I know i wouldn't of kept it for long enough to see some profit in it, but it would be nice to just to experience it for a bit, whereas now I made my peace with the fact ill never own one unless i win the lotto. 😄 Even my £450 V8 Soarer I bought 10 years ago is now worth £5000+ Prices have gone up 10x what they were 10 years ago on a lot of these JDM cars. RX7s, Skylines, Supras etc.. Your best savings accounts wouldn't generate that much cash haha. I'll be selling my green is250 in the next couple of months to buy another JZX100 Mark II as even those have gone up by roughly 2k since this time last year. I wanted to buy my old one back, but found out it ended up in Poland and the guy wants £13k for it 😄 bonkers! He wouldnt of paid more than 7k for it and i only paid 5.2k. And I'll most likely be buying another IS250 because what better daily to buy for under 2k 😄 that or GS300 but they seem to be in a rougher shape and a bit more crusty -
Light washer cover
H3XME replied to Jamescokell's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
This is going to be very fiddly with the bumper on and very easy with the bumper off. So it's up to you which path you decide to choose, but they are sprung, so you can't just easily pulled them out. -
of course David, better fuel will not make a noticeable difference on regular cars. I say regular cars because some cars (predominantly high end sports cars) are factory tuned to run on 98+ and putting supermarket 95 octane will cause them to run sh*t. They adjust timing for that. The MPGs are the only really noticeable thing when using better fuel. Overall, better fuel is like additives, this is a preventative thing to do to ensure your engine is nice and clean many thousands of miles later. It's got better cleaning properties, it's good for all engines, but in terms of immediate performance only a handful of cars will benefit from it.
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Was in Nagoya today so popped into Midland Square
H3XME replied to HGUS's topic in Lexus General Discussions
I really like the front end of the crown, but the rear & profile looks a bit like Renault Arkana 😕 Have you had a chance to see the new Prius? They can look very very good imo! -
Shell V-Power and Tesco Momentum 99 are pretty much the same fuel. They are the best two you can buy in this country. I did a lot of reading recently on this and overall Momentum99 came back with fractionally better results purely due to consistency. V-Power is not as consistent in terms of quality as 99Momentum. But like I said the difference was a fraction. So both equally as good! I used to fill up V-power but since I moved places I no longer have Shell anywhere nearby, so 99Momentum it is! Car is happy, MPGs are better compared to E10 so I say it's a no brainer. Generally speaking the worst fuel is at Asda. Asda E10 is horrible.
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As someone who worked for Liqui Moly, I can truthfully say that additives make a big difference, BUT only if they are used as a preventative measure. People often turn to additives when it's too late and expect them to do miracles. This applies to all cars, diesel and petrol.
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IS300h seats in IS250 - Retro fit / Bolt on
H3XME replied to H3XME's topic in Modifications & Tuning
@is250newbie yeah this is a good point that Linas mentioned. I only swapped, now two sets, of IS300h seats into my 250 but both were manual as they let you sit a little lower than electric ones. It would definitely be possible to get everything working with some basic electrical skills. You have the same amount of wires for both 2006 and 2014 (maybe even 2018) if both are equipped with memory etc. You just need to cut the connectors and swap them onto the new seats because the shapes vary slightly. I think the only plug & play wire is passenger side heating and both front seat belt buckle sensors. Airbag, memory, movement & driver's side heat is different shape connector (same amount of pins at least). -
29 MPG in a 220D?
H3XME replied to MarkChrisian's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
Short answer, sell it. I do 63 miles commute 4x week. 4-5 miles on regular roads and the rest on the motorway. I average 35-36mpg in my IS250 manual. Went to Ponterfact on Saturday, it's 198 mile round trip for me. Came back with 41.1mpg average. That's with a little bit of crawling on the A38 going towards Burton and some town driving before I reached the main road / motorway so.. -
IS250 - New beginning (bit of an ongoing "project")
H3XME replied to H3XME's topic in Modifications & Tuning
Managed to take a few pics on Monday. The colour isn’t 100% but I’m still waiting for the 2k clear coat I ordered. @BkS someone I know imports parts in containers and sometimes he gets 2IS stuff.. I had 4 of these lips on order so I can re-sell but unfortunately the other 3 got damaged in transit. If you need something just drop me a message and I’ll see if it’s possible to bring it over. I think that atm he’s only got a bonnet and a flat bottom carbon steering wheel. -
IS250 - New beginning (bit of an ongoing "project")
H3XME replied to H3XME's topic in Modifications & Tuning
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Not that it matters in OP's case, but I can confirm you will scrape on your arch liner before you scrape on the chassis. This is why it needs cutting out or trimming when lowering the car to a point where it looks lowered. In fact my wheel managed to rub through the top of my arch liner and through the window washer pipe before, so be careful. "Play stupid games, win stupid prizes"
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Just please use this calculator: https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=245&aspect=40&diameter=18&wheelwidth=8.5&offset=50&width2=225&aspect2=40&wheel_size=18&wheel_width=8.5&offset2=30 The link is already setup for 245/40R18 18x8.5 ET50 (factory rear sizes) & 225/40R18 18x8.5 ET30 (which is what you get with 20mm spacers) "Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 20mm further away from the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 20mm more than before." Good 225s are more than enough for an IS250. Square setup is the way to go when you're not pushing 400hp. Don't forget the base model is250 with 16" wheels came with factory 205/55R16s all round.. And this is a controversial opinion, but people who put anything bigger than 245s on this car need to learn to how to drive this car because those bigger tyres won't keep you on the road any better. If 225s can't keep you on the road, it's driver error. Over-tyring is a common problem and it actually hurts the cars performance.
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Lexus IS250 - P0420 - Cat efficiency below threshold bank 1
H3XME replied to Sponelis's topic in Engine & Transmission
Rogue Motorsport in Rugby are heavily into Toyota cars. Maybe hit them up and see what they say / if they can fit you in.