H3XME

It is what it is.. If you put only 1L you're risking overheating the diff over time🤷🏼‍♂️ can always buy 3 and sell the rest to someone here 😅

Sell the diesel, buy IS350. I know a guy who imports them regularly. They're always around 7k.. or buy 250 manual and 3GR swap it because you can use stock ECU. V8 swapping it will cost a sh!t loads of money in fabrication, gearbox, adapter plates, diff, ECU.. Not a financially feasible option.

Yeah, those would look good in that colour. Can't wait to see it. I'm glad you left the badge alone! This is the best the standard grille will look. 3 coats will be plenty to keep it on for a while. I think mine started chipping off after a year or so but even then it wasn't anything too bad.

At Anglesey? They do track days for regular folk with their cars. That's when I would go.

When the car is lowered, or loaded in most cases.. the camber increases. Could be down to worn bushes due to stress. You can buy aftermarket camber arms to bring it back to 0 if you want. We're talking £700 for front and rear. Bushes significantly cheaper, but that's down to the mechanic to inspect it.

TEIN Flex Z (£876) are more forgiving, therefore good street setup. BC Racing are more track focused, but unfortunately thanks to their clever marketing, every YouTuber and his dog uses them on everything and everyone who follows them buys BC too.. Hype / Clout. TEIN Street Basis (£552) do not come with top mounts, they are not damping adjustable and they do not go as low as Flex Z. (Flex Z are top of the range).. The damping adjustability makes a difference because you can set it up so you have a lower car without sacrificing comfort. If the budget won't allow for Flex Z, I would quite happily go for TEIN Street Advance Z for £684 as they are similar to the Flex Z. They don't come with top mounts and go only up to 91mm lower in the front and 60mm lower in the rear vs Flex Z's 97mm front and 141mm rear. But that doesn't really matter because the camber cannot be adjusted through top mounts like on some other cars, so just swap top mounts from your stock suspension on those TEIN shocks are you're good. The height adjustment range is plenty too. I was roughly 60mm lower myself so wouldn't really need more even though the Flex Z allowed it. You know I'm not a fan of those 350Z wheels. I think it's the dimples in the spokes that make them look a bit ugly in my opinion, but this is subjective. It's hard to ignore the fact they're forged (light & strong).. It's what you want in a perfect world. Strong but less unsprung weight. Take your time mate, there's no rush.. It took me 3 years or so to "build" the black one.. money's always a factor. I've now found a Black IS250 after months of scouting the marketplace, eBay & Autotrader and will be picking up next month. I've already started buying parts for the car.. Got pretty much everything except wheels. I'm gonna try 19x10 square setup this time round. I won't say much more. I'll update my thread when I get the car.

EV racing will either disappear or it will take longer to be "mainstream". For example, a track I've been going to for years, Anglesey, has banned ALL EV and Hybrid vehicles from the track. It's to do with putting out electric fires.. It's not cheap or simple.

Don't be silly! That would make far too much sense😆

Someone molested an SC430. This must be the worst kit car I've ever seen. It's currently on Facebook marketplace for £9k!!! https://www.facebook.com/share/zz1Mt1sudYzAMRW4/?mibextid=79PoIi

Injectors are ok? It's not leaking somewhere? How are the AFRs looking??

https://www.toyota.co.uk/content/dam/toyota/nmsc/united-kingdom/owners/vehicle-information/certificates-of-conformity/Certificate_of_Conformity_Application_Form_tcm-3157-1598759.pdf

Thanks Vlad. He's free to do what he wants haha.. It's just advice as I don't know how much experience he has. I wish someone told me about cheap parts & "expensive" parts when I was younger. People often think that cheap wheels or coilovers are the same as branded ones, you just don't have to pay extra for the name. It's not always true, especially when it comes to suspension or wheels. The two things that are under the most amount of stress.. This is a forum, we should share the knowledge we have. If you choose to listen or not is up to you 😅 Also just to clarify, not saying BC Coils are on the same level as eBay chinesium. Both TEIN and BC Racing coilovers are entry level budget coilovers but Teins are more suited for the streets. BC would perform better on the track.

Welcome. Nice plan. A friendly advice.. I strongly advise against BC Racing coils on this car. I had both TEIN Flex Z and BCs and the TEINs were a lot better to live with as it's quite a heavy car. Again, BOLA wheels and other replica wheels like JR or ROTA.. They are cheaper versions of genuine wheels from brands such as RAYS, BBS, WORK etc. While this may not make that much of a difference on stock cars, the poor quality of those wheels shows when you're on a lower, stiffer suspension that has less suspension travel and puts more stress on the wheels on 💩roads. They are basically easy to crack when you hit a sneaky pot hole. (Ask me how I found out. Lol) but it's up to you whether you wanna risk it. They'll be OK otherwise.. Never had a problem on genuine wheels after years of use. Bushes on sway bars don't do much of a difference at all. Coils will reduce the body roll a lot, but you ideally need uprated thicker sway bars to help with body roll.

Don't remember ever seeing disasters but gear changes are often crisper post flush. Look at any oil, it loses lubricating priorities over time. Not as much as engine oil due to lesser heat but the principle is the same

Grab a spare wheel & some tools.

They're cheaper and less miles. I see a lot of them by me, but hey are all taxis tbh.

If it was a Prius, there is a very good chance it was JDM import that didn't have DRLs. Spec issue I'd say is more likely than someone went out of their way to turn them off. That'd be stupid, although not surprising🤣

Front parking sensors came ONLY on SE-L & Sport models. (if we're talking pre-facelift cars) Rear parking sensors were an optional extra on SE. Navi, ML & Rear cam was also an optional extra. So you could have both, camera AND parking sensors. Most SE's with camera have the rear sensors too, but it was an optional extra, and probably didn't cost a lot since most of them have it. Memory seats with telescopic steering were not available on SE's.

Start from the easiest fixes. Clean the MAF. Clean the throttle body. Air filter clean? When was the last time your plugs were changed? Could be the coil pack going bad. It is cold outside. Funny idle can be caused by a few things so it's difficult to tell you exactly what you need to do.. Does the car perform okay other than the issues stated above? Do you think it hesitates when you put your foot down? I had something similar on my 250, but mine was manual. Say if i was doing 60mph at 2000RPM, then coming down to an island and pop it into a manual to coast down the car would sometimes stall. RPMs would drop and the car would shut off. And after restarting the car and coming to a stop, it would rev hunt. Rpm would be unsettled, idling at 500rpm. Almost like a loss of oil pressure. It all went away when i cleaned the maf. Also changed the air filter but that wouldn't have affect on this as the old one wasn't that dirty.

They do, but some certainly more than others. Really depends on a car. Generally speaking, Subaru, Mazda, Honda, Nissan & Mitsubishi are prone to rust. Suzuki, Toyota & Lexus tend to be a lot better in comparison. There are exceptions of course. Lexus IS200/300 (first gen IS) are really bad for rust everywhere, but they are 25 years old this year. IS250/220d (second Gen IS) are fine except for subframes on some cars (nothing on chassis legs and other common spots). Subframes are understandable to be honest, it's exposed all year round. It seems like IS300h/250 (3rd Gen) is following First gen's footsteps.. GS300/450h (2004+) are also prone to rust a lot more than IS's. LS's not so much.. Anyway. The best thing to do is to inspect the car when on the lift, and get it rust treated with Lanoguard if you can. Or just take it to a garage but it will cost you a few hundred quid. Small price to pay if you ask me. Especially if you want to keep the car for some time.

@Neilo @Taseen Just to add, SE-L wasn't the only model with auto-dimming mirrors. Sport models had it too. They're actually the second best specced cars right after SE-L. If you're after auto-dimming mirrors and you're looking for SE-L cars only it will narrow your search down too much since the Sport models had it too. Get in touch with breakers. There's lots of cars being advertised as "breaking only" I created a chart some time ago, it should be over 90% correct. I'm going off personal experience with SE & Sport models. The only bit that could be wrong is the wheels. I could not find UK brochure from 15 years ago to double check exactly what models had what options for upgraded alloys. Green - standard spec Red - not available Orange - optional extra (The chart below covers only pre-facelift cars)

I thought only 99+ were DBW. 97 should be cable. But it's possible!

Hi David, I did it in both of mine. 2006 and 2008. Rear seats were replaced with facelift leather ones (white stitching) as my original interior was the microsuede specific to the sport models. 3IS rear seats don't fit. They're a different shape

I don't think it will work on this car. It's got electronic throttle control - no throttle cable like in older cars, so I doubt the throttle opens until the car actually starts 🥲but i could be wrong.

Glad to hear you don't have any issues, but just to put my 5 pence here.. I would check that the spark plugs have been done. And the transmission & diff flush is worth doing also. This is a preventative maintenance. Changing stuff that should be changed after something goes wrong is too late.