BigDingus
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Linas I would agree that chains usually only have an issue due to bad maintenance. Low or bad oil. I can’t comment for before I purchased the car, but it's been better looked after then most cars since it arrived here. I'm fortunate to have the use of a 10 bay garage whenever I want. 8 of which have hydraulic ramps. You’re mostly correct about Lexus timing belts, but they are not immune to stretching. Usually around 100K. The last one I did, it was found to be the tensioner ratchet that had failed. This caused the tensioner to retract too much and let the chain run loose (and stretch) until the oil pressure built up on the next start. I’ve never been one for just replacing things. I ALWAYS repair first. The decontaminating was extensive and time consuming. Every channel was checked, cleaned, flushed and even blown through. Quote: I hate it when people nowadays don't fix anything and throw whole "unit" away, but sadly it needs to be said: Unquote. Sadly the mechanics here can’t usually FIX things. As you said, it’s down to economics. Far cheaper to fit a part than repair the old one. I’ve been all over the engine with my mic checking the tolerances. So far all are within spec.
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Linas.P again loads to answer. The main chain was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. It had streched. All the checks have been done and there's no indication to why this chain failed. No snags... Nothing. Timing on the rest of the engine is perfect. All moving free and easy. Thankfully no valves damaged. Bore check shows no sign of piston or cylinder damage. Cam has no damage. No valves bent. No lack of oil marks. Actually there was one piece that was damaged, and I was amazed, a collets. None of our mechanics have heard of a collet being damaged. Channels etc will be cleaned through before total reassembly. Including removal and cleaning of the sump, which is a nighmare on the GR engine due to the front of the sump fouling. I agree the something must have caused this, but extensive investigation hasn't shown anything. Hard to think something other than the cam jamming, but agian all valves etc are fine. We will see when the start button is pressed. This will be a while as I ordered 1 rocker short.
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Thanks Linus. Lots of info there. Labour is nil as I’m the engine builder. Sorry I said follower, I meant rocker. Followers are seriously expensive. All the parts come to £375 and that’s with some parts that really ain’t needed but better to have them incase. It is the 4GR I have. The rest off the engine is in good condition. Although not 100% perfect test, but compressed air shows no bent valves.
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Thanks for helping guys. Ive now removed bank 2 exhaust camshaft. Ive also checked all the valves and they are in perfect nick. The only damage apart from the timing chain, are 2 cam followers, now removed and ordered, plus the chain tensioner. I gingerly rotated the cam and there was no indication of any valve coming into contact with a piston. Linas. The Lexus mechanics and the 2 storemen had never heard of the secondary timing chain snap. Just my luck. Im hoping the chain can be split or fitting it will be a nightmare.
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Hi all. I had the misfortune of one of my small timing chains snap. I'm now looking to fit a new chain plus other bits. Before I start I'm wanting to find out it the engine in an IS250 is an interference engine or hopefully not. I did see on Youtube a guy turning a camshaft but I like to bee 100% sure.
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Hi folks. My air suspension has been playing up….. AGAIN. On my RX300 2004. I’ve replaced all the struts and all the height sensors. The problem: Whatever height the car’s at when I leave it, it’s the same height for as long as it sits there. Therefore no air leak. It was like a Tea bag in the past. When the system is active is develops the issue. When driving the car lowers on all corners without any input, and then soon after the suspension pump runs and raises it to the original height. This repeats for as long as the system is on. With the headlights on and the car stationary, I can see the headlights tilt up and down fairly rapidly. This leads me to deduce that it has to be an electrical issue. I’ve checked all connections, including the suspension ECU’s. Has anyone had experience of this, and have a solution?
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Ride height sensor
BigDingus replied to inchley313's topic in RX 300 / RX 350h / RX 400h / RX 200t / RX 450h+ / RX 500h Club
I know this post is years old, but incase someone finds it like I just did. I’ve been looking for a height sensor for exact same reason. Todays cheapest is £18.50 The same one from Lexus is an unbelievable £549. No, I didn’t mistype. Thats just thieving. -
Nick as far as I can find out from speaking to mechanics and the Lexus guys, when the height is set to normal is when you do any measuring. The H and L are referenced to the N setting. No one could tell me by how much. % or cm who knows. However, there is a resistance change in the sensors. Jagman I don't have any knowledge of the RX450 but I would be very surprised if the rear wasn't supposed to adjust also.
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Nick. That’s exactly how I do the adjustments. As no one can say what the correct value is, I just aim for 46cm ish. If it looks ok I go with that.
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Cruisermark. I’ve had too many bad experiences with Lexus. Mirror for my RX was in the hundreds. I think it was about £200. Just the glass. Got one from a trader for £90. (New) Sliding roof cables. Lexus was £600. Trader was £47. (New) Lexus dealers rip people off.
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Texus, Saw this video last week. Excellent one. I'd prefer to fit replacement ones. Too much of a fidle for me. Thanks though. Howplum, they look ok. It's only when I roll the window they miss patches.
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Hi all. My IS250 weather seals are getting a bit past it, so I’m looking to replace them. Does anyone know of a supplier? Online they have been called so many different names. So to be clear, it’s the rubber strips that are against the windows that move up and down.
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One thing I haven’t seen anyone point out. Your mirrors won’t tilt when reverse is selected if the power switch is in the central position. Left or right mirror must be selected on the door panel.
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The drive cable on the RX300 (and similar) is made of hard plastic with a wire insert. Should you need to replace one that has been damaged, be prepared for a long and fiddly job. First this you will need to do is remove the glass, held by 4 screws. (This can be delayed until you are ready to drop the frame) Next the switch cluster (2 obvious screws and 2 hidden behind flaps), sun visors (2screws each), electric connections and the rear passenger light. Next remove the seatbelt covers. This is done by pulling, with some force, the lower panel away from the car B pillar. These are held by very strong clips. Next remove the upper belt cover by removing two 10mm bolts at the bottom. The upper covers can now be pulled away from the B pillar. Now carefully pull the roof liner away from the A pillars. This should then allow the roof liner, from the C pillar forward, to lower enough to give you access to the 4 drain hoses, which are help in place with clips. Now remove the drive motor electric clip and bracket. 2X 10mm bolts. You can now remove the 10mm nuts that hold the frame in place. 2 of which have a metal clamps at the rear doors. At this point lower both front seat backs as far as possible. Moving the seats as far forward as you can will help. I then removed the wind deflector and the water catcher. Both have very flimsy hinges. With great difficulty the frame can be taken out of a rear door. (I believe Lexus advocate you remove the whole roof liner and extract the frame out of the boot). The drive cables can be purchased direct from Lexus at £600 a pair. Or as I did, you can get them from an Internet bidding site for £42 plus VAT. The part number can vary per vehicle so be sure to order the one for your reg. Mine was 63205-48010 but the second part does vary. Be warned. When you take delivery of your replacement cables, you will get new guides that the glass fits onto. I strongly advise that you use your old ones and only swap the cables. The replacement ones have VERY small differences. You won't see these unless you use a Mic to measure it, but they will cause you issues. Before installing anything do a good clean and lubricate with light grease, including inside the cable runners. Now before you reinstall the frame, run the guides all the way to the rear of the frame. This will ensure both sides match after install. Confirm this before reinstalling the drive motor. The reinstall is just the above in reverse. Do a sunroof reset before you fit the glass. This ensures the glass is at the correct position when closed.
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I can make the adjustments on my suspension ok, but no where can I find the correct values. I've seen 45cm and 47cm. Is this at N setting?
