Razor61

I recently rebuilt my power steering pump and used the Toyota fluid shown below, can anyone confirm that this is the correct fluid or is it ok to use? It's Dextron III - automatic transmission and power steering fluid - part number 08886-80506 It was on offer for £7 a litre at LPD so bought a few bottles - link to LPD https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-dextron-iii-oil-1-litre/ Since then I saw this power steering fluid on LPD and it's £46 per litre so not sure if I've bought the right stuff - https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-power-steering-fluid-1-litre/

I've not heard of a car 'direct drive' AC Compressor but maybe someone knows about this and can enlighten me. Direct drive and belt drive types for air compressors for workshop use etc...................yes but not direct drive on a car. I'm not an expert but afaik direct drive is where the 'motor' is connected direct to the compressor and belt drive is the where the 'motor' drives the compressor using/via a belt ( same as a car )

Where did you get the info that it's a direct drive compressor and doesn't have a clutch? Just curious because from what I can see it does have a magnetic clutch and isn't massively different to the LS400. From looking on Amayama and RockAuto there is a magnet clutch assy on the front which looks the same as the LS400, which definitely does have a magnetic clutch. My previous LS400 had an AC issue and it was the clutch on the compressor so bought a Denso one from RockAuto, ordered Friday lunchtime and it was delivered Monday afternoon!! They are listed on RockAuto for your car, Denso 4710574 - £470 including carriage and duty, and it looks like it has a clutch assy to me. You should be able to check yourself, just have a look at the compressor and if it has a clutch assy it will look like the pic of the one listed on RockAuto and Amayama. RockAuto link: More Information for DENSO 4711574 (rockauto.com) EPC link: Heating & air conditioning - compressor for Lexus LS430 UCF30R - Auto parts (epc-data.com)

There is a nice Blue 2006 LS430 for sale on Autotrader for £9499, this car was on Facebook a while ago and the owner said it was coming up for sale soon but no price specified. I was interested and it's now for sale on Autotrader with a price, £9499 though..........................too expensive for me. This car was featured on YouTube, 'Jay Emm on cars' channel - 'Can You Get Luxury, Reliability AND A V8 for £5000? With a Lexus LS430, Maybe...' and link is below if anyone is interested in watching it. AT advert https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202401015163750?advertising-location=at_cars&atmobcid=soc5&fromsra&make=Lexus&model=LS 430&sort=relevance YouTube video https://youtu.be/dRDwTSa4Ec8?si=TJ8_SL5mrXovqdes

Another interesting Car Care Nut video, mainly about how expensive a particular shock absorber is but the bit that interested me most was about KYB's own range of shocks compared to Lexus/Toyota shocks made by KYB. Made by KYB to Toyota/Lexus specification, KYB's own range are different so when buying KYB for a Toyota/Lexus model the shocks are different. KYB made to Toyota/Lexus specification are better quality and different, I can confirm that because I went for KYB's own range on my LS400 (for cost reasons) and ended up swopping them out for Lexus OE shocks/struts. https://youtu.be/6E-f66cgUA0?si=PqW2dCJ8r8-SSujB

Just some more info about the steering pump, I thought the pump itself was the same on the 94-97 and 97-2000 with only the reservoir bracket different but after watching the video below it seems the rear bracket mounting is different as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysvFhViFtqo

Sounds like the ignition switch caused it, few posts about it on here, wiggling the ignition key or switching off and on again resolves it.

Just thinking that if anyone needs their pump rebuilt I’d be happy to help and do the job, if you trust me to do it, and if anyone needs or would like their power steering fluid flushed and new fluid I’d be happy to do it as well. After all the work on mine I have a ‘method’ for doing both without any drama😉 I’m thinking about rebuilding the steering rack myself, I have a 97 steering rack to practice on. It may be ok on my car but the solenoid on the pressure control valve assembly is different, checked this morning after I checked the pump for leaks again (it’s nice and dry). Then cleaned the undertray to remove the bits of steering fluid grime and re fitted.

There's much debate about how often to change the oil and filter. I change the oil and filter every 6 months on my LS400 and IS250 or after 5k miles, whichever comes first but I don't do 5k miles in either car so it's every 6 months.

Thanks, it was interesting to take the pump apart and you can then see where and how the pump could leak. No leak is good but I think the worse place to leak is the O ring on the rear which is directly above the rear of the alternator were the electronic bits are. The reservoir O ring wasn’t leaking on mine, I thought it was but it wasn’t. Just a ‘theory’ of mine but I suspect the earlier type with the reservoir directly on the pump with little or no support is more likely to leak at that O ring due to the weight of the reservoir, moving around and wearing or dislodging the O ring somehow, it just gives way and then a lot of fluid dumps itself on the alternator. The later type maybe has a thicker stronger bracket plus the reservoir is remote to the pump connected with a hose so doesn’t have the weight on it. Just a theory though.

Regarding rebuilding the pump and the O rings kit which may be useful to someone doing the same job. The gasket kit part# 04446-30173 contains everything you need to replace all the O rings, oil seal, IAC (idle Air Control) valve seat, circlip/snap rings etc. Bearing is separate - part# 90363-17017 and it's up to you if you replace it or not. I took the view that I was doing everything else so replaced the bearing as well. In hindsight I would have left the original in because there was nothing wrong with it and the little snap ring on the pump shaft is a little #### to get on. Most of it is obvious which O rings go where by comparing the size and thickness of the O ring removed compared to the new O ring. There was one O ring I couldn't figure out where it was in the pump to begin with and it wasn't mentioned in the guides on lexls.com or Planet Soarer that I could see, it's the O ring with the red arrow in the Diagram below. This O ring goes inside the recess on the Side Front Plate which faces the front of the pump and is difficult to see because the Side Front Plate is black in colour, even though I cleaned everything. I prodded in the recess on the Side Front Plate with a pick to find anything rubber and found it, using the sharp point of a craft type knife thin blade I got it out being very careful. This means that there are 2 x O rings on the Side Front Plate so more force is needed to press the Side Front Plate into the pump housing. Removing the O rings from the Side plates needs to done very carefully with a craft type knife thin blade, I gently pressed it onto the O ring at an angle across the O ring and gap and then 'flicked' out the O ring once it was cut through enough. The gasket kit O rings for the side plates and rear bracket are packaged separately, one pack with the 2 x side plate O rings (Green arrow in the diagram) and one pack with the Rear Bracket O ring (Blue arrow in the diagram) The Pressure Port Union and Spring Seat O rings are similar, iirc the Pressure Port Union O ring is the thinner one. Assembly, all done carefully and liberal amounts of fluid: I installed the 2 x new O rings onto the Side Front Plate Refitted the long guide pin Refitted the Side Front Plate with the new O rings fitted, pressed it in by hand a bit to level/line it up. Refitted the short guide pin Refitted the 'Ring, Cam' without the rotor and vanes (I chose to do this but the rotor and vanes can be fitted at this point) Refitted the rear side plate WITHOUT the O ring for easy removal Refitted the rear wave washer Refitted the rear bracket WITHOUT the O ring for easy removal Gradually tightened the rear bracket down with 2 opposite side bolts which pressed the Side Front Plate into the pump housing Removed the rear bracket, rear wave washer, rear side plate and checked that the Side Front Plate was pressed in ok. Installed the Rotor Installed the vane 'plates', rounded edge to the outside Installed the rear side plate with new O ring Installed the rear wave washer Refitted the rear bracket with new O ring Torqued bolts to 39nm Refitted the rest of the stuff and O rings. I hope that makes sense and maybe helps someone else doing this job and this is a link below for a video where a guy called Arnold rebuilds his power steering pump on an LS400, he didn't use the gasket kit but is a useful video nonetheless plus there are more videos on what he has done to his early LS400. https://youtu.be/JeB8aVtuMLM?si=HCruKqEMEcQmgq7q I sort of enjoyed rebuilding the pump myself and didn't want to fail with it after all the pain of getting the pump out in the first place but, again in hindsight, I would have bought the gasket kit and bearing then took it to the pump specialist to do the rebuild or found an engineering/mechanic shop to help me to do it. I was a bit 'bl00dy minded' about it to be honest and didn't want to seek any help.

I found the latest YouTube video from the Car Care Nut (link below) on alternators very interesting, especially the bit about when a Diode in the alternator fails and can cause havoc with a cars electronics and modules. Makes perfect sense to me how it can cause electrical/electronic issues and something I have never thought about. I knew the general theory of how the alternator works from my electronics days, generating AC - rectifying to DC and smoothing etc, but the 'way' it does it with 3 phases and how the voltage output is controlled was interesting. Maybe some of the strange electrical/electronic issues owners have is down to a faulty alternator in some way. https://youtu.be/fFG7eLAY4m8?si=QZAoRDK6y4Lm52Dv

The rebuilt pump is in the car and working fine, there was a very small leak from the 'power up steering valve' thing but I nipped it up more and no more leak. Before I put the drive belt on and started the car, I flushed the old fluid out pretty well and it's all nice and 'red' now. The way I flushed it was similar to the methods documented elsewhere but I didn't start and stop the car and run the pump. I just turned the steering lock to lock and flushed out the old fluid. I thought I'd try doing it without starting and shutting off the car and risk fluid spurting everywhere. I'm happy with the result and it took just over a litre of fluid on my car but the reservoir and pump were empty and clean so I'd guess 2 - 4 litres to flush another car with manky fluid. The fluid that came out was very dark and definitely not red. I did order a new pump from Amayama when I was struggling to get the bearing out and it arrived yesterday. For info it came with the return tube/bracket assembly fitted, I thought that was separate, so all that's needed is to fit the new 'power up steering valve' thing I have. The opening for the 'power up steering valve' thing is blanked off with a bolt so I may decide to do away with it. Not sure if it's 'sealed' with the bolt or it's just for transit but if was just for transit it would be a plastic bung. I still have the slight steering rack to sort so the plan is to keep the rebuilt pump in the car until spring/summer when the weather is better, take the rack out, send the rack for a rebuild, install the rebuilt rack and fit the new pump.

I thought I was well and truly 'shafted' when I couldn't get the bearing out😄 The leak on the pump wasn't really bad, this job started as 'I'll order the bits, rebuild the pump, all will be good and is a straightforward job' but of course things don't work out that way. Once you notice something leaking, however slight, it has to be fixed, especially the pump above the alternator.

Power steering pump is disassembled, struggled to get the bearing and shaft out with a slide hammer so I fabricated a puller with angled steel and some home made shims. Drilled and tapped a hole in the middle to screw on the shaft and fixed into place with the shaft nut, measured and drilled/tapped 2 more holes for 2 bolts with a pointed end to line up with the shims. Gradually wound down the 2 x pointed bolts one at a time and I heard the 'pop' when the bearing released. kept going then rearranged the shims and added 2 x more to pull the bearing and shaft out completely (the alignment of the bolts wasn't perfect). I hope that makes sense and a pic of home made 'puller' is below (before I realigned the shims and added 2 more) Also a picture of all the components, I still need to tap out the front oil seal. Over the weekend I'll rebuild the pump and fit it back into the car and reassemble everything. @Steve (steve2006), I managed the job in the end. It was really bugging me that I couldn't get the bearing and shaft out myself so had another go at it last night.

If what you want isn't listed on the web site you can do a parts enquiry for what you want and LPD will reply back with a quote. If your happy with it proceed with it and how to pay instructions will be sent to you.

The power steering specialist is Preston Power Steering, Inskip, Preston. http://www.prestonpowersteering.co.uk/

No problem, yep it's fast becoming or has already become a throw away society. Specialist repair/rebuild companies are few and far between, for my current 'issues' there is a steering rack/pump specialist close to me and Ribblesdale Auto Electrics as mentioned. The steering rack/pump specialist lead/turn around times are weeks, 4 - 5 weeks for a steering rack, symptom of not many specialists about I would think.

There was a place in Bamber Bridge which I used many years ago but can’t find them again, maybe they have gone out of business. There is a company called The Alloy Wheel Specialist in Clitheroe which looks pretty good. If you don’t mind sending the wheels away I would recommend Lepsons in Gillingham, Kent. I’ve used them a few times and they have a tyre supply fitting service as well if you want the wheels refurbished and new tyres of your choice fitted. The wheels will come back better than new, new tyres fitted and packaged really well. Not cheap but one of the best in my opinion.

I've just had the alternator my 98 LS400 tested just in case a power steering pump leak had caused any issues, dropped it off yesterday - tested and was ok - picked it up again today so very happy. The company is Ribblesdale Auto Electrics and it's a fairly big and busy operation, just thought I'd mention them in case anyone needs their services, and they were really helpful and professional. Easy location for me to visit cos it's near to me but they operate a delivery/pickup service as well and they provide other services as well. Ribblesdale Auto Electrics Phone: 01772 796047 Website: https://www.ribblesdale.co.uk/

Yep, an IS250 which is the Mrs car. I may need to catch the train or bus to work a few days in the next few weeks but it's no big deal. Plan is to get the car going again before the Christmas, I have the week before Christmas off work, the pump seal kit is on back order and won't arrive until early/mid December so I'm stuck until then. I would have done the pump before now if I had got the seal kit but that's life.

The latest on this issue..... Removed the alternator last night, it looks dry inside with no signs of fluid but I'm getting it checked at a specialist anyway to be sure. Alternator is a Lexus/Toyota part# 27060-50230 - Denso 101211-7761, after being checked I'll fit it back on the car. Waiting for the new pump seal kit and bearing and I'll rebuild the pump myself or have it done at a specialist, not decided which yet. Steering Rack: A new steering rack part number - 44250-50140 is no longer available from Amayama, which I expected. A possible replacement is available though - part number - 44250-50130 and listed for a Toyota Celsior I've cross referenced parts numbers between the 2, inner/outer tie rods, seal kits, solenoid, the internal bits, bushes etc etc and they are the same. So I'm pretty confident the possible replacement rack part number - 44250-50130 will be perfectly ok, if I wanted to shell out for a brand new steering rack @ £1200 - £1300 However, yesterday ACD Lexus Breakers in Accrington got back to me and they had a used steering rack from a 1997 (low mileage apparently). No way of knowing if it's from a late mk3 or early mk4 but I bought it anyway. I suspect it's from a Mk3 but can't be sure. They look identical, the outer bits (tie rods, boots etc) are the same part numbers but the assembly itself is different part numbers. I can't tell the difference between the 2 and the used rack has no signs of leaking and the tie rod ball joints are in excellent shape with good resistance when moved rather being sloppy. Maybe it is a low mileage rack. I've contacted Lexus Customer relations to ask if I can use a 94-97 rack on a 97-2000 LS400, it's worth a shot. So I have a few options now 1. Buy the new 'possible replacement' rack mentioned above😬 2. Have the used rack I bought checked out at a specialist, sorted if needed, fit to the car and carry on with it. 3. Fit the used rack to the car, have my original rack refurbished at the specialist (4 - 5 weeks) and fit to the car when done (this only allows me to use the car while the original rack is sorted) 4. Fit the used rack to car and just carry on with it, if it's all ok etc when fitted. Some more thinking to be done and decide what best to do🤔

Already seen that, it’s a repair service and reviews are a bit mixed, first thing I did was search on eBay and Facebook etc. As mentioned earlier in the topic I’ve already found a specialist near me in Preston to do a rebuild.

Regarding the steering rack slight leak, refurb takes 4 - 5 weeks, steering rack is discontinued so can't buy new in the UK, I've enquired with Amayama if they can supply one (approx. £1100 delivered plus duty etc.) just out of interest. I don't fancy rebuilding it myself, pump not a problem but not the steering rack. I could just leave it, it's just a slight leak, and keep an eye on the fluid level. It may not get a lot worse but I suspect it will. My preferred option is to buy a decent used steering rack, have it refurbished and swop it out. Then maybe have the original one from the car refurbished and sell it to someone who needs one, probably won't work out like that but it's an idea. So if anyone on here has a decent used steering rack or knows where there is one for sale then please let me know, it would be appreciated. It has to be a mk4 07.1997 - 08.2000 steering rack.

Thank you, it was Tw@1 of a job tbh in the pouring rain. Of course a ‘dry’ garage with a 2 or 4 post lift would have made life a lot easier as with most jobs but where is the fun in that🤣 DIY mechanics on the drive with run up ramps, axle stands, pi$$ing down and not a lot of room to wield spanners is where it’s at😄