Razor61

I’ll do that thanks, car is a 1998 with 90k. If there is no play in the UCA’s then I’ll carry on with the drop links and maybe remove the struts, strip them down and make sure the rubbers and top mounts are ok, clean/lubricate them and put them back.

I have some annoying knocks and creaking on the front but nothing drastic, I checked the front UCA's and they looked in good condition. What method do you use to check the control arms? I've replaced the lower ball joints and that improved things, I also sprayed WD40 on the drivers front strut rubber spring mounting pads and the spring. I'm reasonably sure that has stopped some annoying creaks and noises on the drivers side so will do the same on the passenger side.

Did mine last weekend, same issues as you and more or less used the same method/s. I used a pry bar with a pointed end to line up the holes but still a pain under the car. As you say, you have to do them in tandem but it takes a while for the penny to drop, I should have remembered from the last time I did them on another LS400 a couple of years ago. Good write up by the way and better than mine👍

Front sway/anti roll bar bushes replaced today. Tore a rib muscle or something along the way. It’s a job that seems straightforward, getting them off is ok but fitting the new ones is not so easy working under the car on your own. New antenna fitted as well today, needed the ‘Boss’ to help….. guide the old antenna out then turn the ignition to off while I fed the new antenna in. Some things are a 2 man job or a 1 man and 1 woman job today.😀

What about buying a used instrument cluster, there are a few on Ebay for around £100. Easy to replace and you will have spares in case the cathode tubes or anything else goes faulty.

1997 Gold Mk3 LS400 82k on Facebook. This car was for sale last year and I was going to look at it but bought a Mk4 instead. I was sent lots of pictures, especially of the arches and it looked pretty good. MOT history looks decent, oil leak mentioned for a few years buy probably the valve cover leaking slightly. It's missing the front bumper spoilers on the corners and it has had some paint work done on the drivers front wing but it may be worth a look for someone. I think it was for sale for £4995 at the time and the seller said he would take £4500 iirc. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/478447840596654/

So after replacing the ECT temp sensor the mpg going to work and back has improved, now averaging 25mpg rather than 20mpg before. As mentioned earlier, after replacing the front lower ball joints most of the suspension noise/clunk has gone when coming off over speeds bumps etc. I've also noticed that when driving over rough surfaces the 'rattling' suspension noise has gone, its feels/sounds tighter and no suspension rattling means less rattling in the cabin if anything is slightly loose. I put that down to the new ball joints 100%. Looked like they have not been replaced for a long time and maybe not replaced since new. I didn't need brute force to batter the ball joint off using a fork splitter because I have a proper removal so I didn't damage them when removing and could inspect them. I'm not an expert on how to tell if a ball joint is worn too much, apart from it being really obvious and a massive amount of play, but when wiggling and moving the ball joint after removal there didn't seem to be a lot of play at all. Moving side to side though there was a metal on metal noise so they were worn but not totally knackered.

According to the Denso website the correct wiper blades are below. I go off the Denso website to find the correct type and size: https://www.denso-am.co.uk/e-catalogue/

I will be selling our IS200 very shortly, 2003, manual, blue, beige interior, 85k miles, timing belt/water/pump/idlers done, sills good and cavities treated. Have a look at my topics on the car and PM me if interested.

Cheers, the work I like doing to be honest and I can do it no problem. Body doesn’t agree with that anymore though so I spend the morning doing it and then recover the rest of the day……with a few beers as a reward. I think I’m on the right track with my suppositions, replacing parts in sections and testing must reveal where the problem lies.

Just one thing to note about removing the lower ball joints. The first one I did I removed the nut completely, attached the ball joint splitter, wound it up and the ball joint flew off upwards with considerable force…… The next one I loosened the nut and left it on, attached the ball joint splitter, wound it up and the ball joint separated without flying off. But I couldn’t remove the nut cos it was rusted on so ended up grinding through the shaft. No big deal though, what I should have done is remove the nut completely and made sure it screwed on and off easily, put the nut back on and then split the ball joint.

Front lower ball joints replaced today, took 4 hours for both sides taking my time. I also fitted a new pad wear sensor as it had been cut and a terminal block used to make the circuit. By the way, the little clip that holds the sensor to the pad is over £10😬 I bought an anti squeal shim kit which includes the clip for £35 and used the little clip. The rest of the kit will be used when I change the discs and pads. I planned to do the drop links and anti roll bar bushes today but changed my mind, I’ll do them tomorrow if the weather is decent. Went for a drive and the niggly suspension noise has changed and I’ll do my best to explain. Before changing the front lower ball joints the noise/clunk was noticeable coming off a speed bump or into a pot hole, more on the left hand side. That has now gone but it wasn’t really bad in the first place. However, there is a noise/clunk going onto a speed bump on the right hand side side. Maybe it’s the front drop links, I don’t think so as they look in good condition but they will be replaced tomorrow. I suspect it’s the front UCA ball joints, I have a new OEM set so will replace them if it’s not the drop links. I think, and it’s only my opinion, noise/clunk going onto a speed bump points to upper ball joints. Noise/clunk coming off a speed speed bump points to lower ball joints. This is due to the loading on the suspension I think.

That’s what are on my DHP wheels and were on the car when I bought it, other people fit the same size.

Falken don't make the correct size but they do make 225/55/17 ZIEX ZE310 ECORUN which are quiet tyres. I will probably be going for them when I need some.

I had a look for tyre options for DHP wheels. The options are limited for the correct size. Apart from winter tyres all I could find is below. The other option is to run 225/55/17 tyres, they are pretty close for height and circumference but not as wide of course. Bridgestone RE050 run flats Accelera PHI R General Altimax Sport Pirelli P Zero Asimmetrico - on Amazon for £237

according to epc data it should be 100A

https://www.transmissionrepairsnorthwestltd.co.uk/services

I had to do that on the Mk3 I had, I’ll be replacing the same stuff on the current LS so I expect to be getting the grinder out.

Correction………650 rpm not 625 rpm🙄

So the idle speed is fine on 625 rpm. I must have had the car in Park which raises the idle speed, I wasn’t looking at the rpm really but rather how steady it was. In neutral idle is spot on. Trip to Middlesbrough yielded 35-37 mpg at a constant 70 on dual carriageway and 32-33 mpg on the A59 across country. I’ve been averaging 20 mpg going to work and back, 50% town and 50% A road. I’ll see if that improves after the ECT change, my gut says it probably won’t but you never know.

There is a + - for idle speed, I’ll check in the manual. The battery had been off, on, off, on, I don’t know how many times yesterday so it will take a bit of time to settle down. I’ll check tomorrow though but anyway the point was ‘it’s different’, maybe it’s higher than 650 but I’d rather 800 than 0😀

Went for a 20 mile drive just to see if the ECT sensor has made any difference, seems better on fuel but will know better when I drive to Middlesbrough and back tomorrow. Before On startup I could smell un burnt fuel from the exhaust quite strongly, now it’s doesn’t smell as strong but that could all be in my head. Idle is different though, I didn’t notice anything wrong before at all but it now idles rock solid on 800 rpm. At some point I’ll drive a short distance, stop, turn off and restart to see if the ‘flooding’ issue is fixed which I experienced a while back.

Not really, I’m sorting the niggly stuff. The car drives and performs great, a few niggling suspension noises going over speed bumps but nothing drastic and the VSC thing to sort. Preventative maintenance and general tinkering to get things 100% is what I’m doing now, it’s a hobby and keeps me out of the pub😜

Work done today. Replaced ECT sensor - temp sensor for fuel injection system - a doddle and took 30 mins max. I did notice that the rubber gasket - intake to throttle body assy - was not installed correctly - it was a bit mangled - it's all good now though. I suspect some air was being drawn in before. The stuff below took some time, disconnecting battery between removing and installing used stuff. Removed existing SatNav assy - fitted used undamaged assy - worked fine so I have a spare Fitted damaged in transit used SatNav assy - worked ok apart from the drivers temp lcd which was damaged in transit. Removed existing instrument cluster - fitted used cluster - tested and its ok apart from the transmission 'D' bulb not working so I have a spare. re fitted existing instrument cluster. Adjusted drivers door using the Toyota/Lexus 'special' tool - door is now aligned - it had dropped a bit - it needs 2 people really to adjust it but managed it with a trolley jack. Took pictures of the spare parts I've accumulated and will post a list if anyone needs anything. Jobs for tomorrow..........wash the car and nothing else😉

Reg is worth a lot of money, it’s the reg for sale more than the car. The car is literally 5 Mins away from me so will have a look if possible, VSC warning on though………..seen that before somewhere🤔