Razor61

After all the suspension work I've done on my 98 LS400 and replacing the shocks with KYB, I thought I'd share my experience and, in my opinion, how to tell if shocks are on their way out or not working as they should. I replaced the rear shocks/mounts etc a few weeks ago (fronts about 8 months ago) and the weekend just gone I visited my son in St Andrews. The smooth, relatively pot hole free 'A' roads round St Andrews are a good test of how a car handles and after doing some spirited but sensible driving, I'm very happy at the difference. Before I would not feel safe going into/round bends at a 'normal' ish speed because of the rear rolling too much imo, now though the car handles far better and I have confidence that I don't need to slow right down for bends. I'm talking about normal/slightly spirited driving not crazy driving. I didn't expect a 98 LS400 to handle like a Go Kart but at the same time I expected better. Of course I have never driven a brand new LS400 so I don't have a reference, but I believe the car now handles as it should and is as close to a new LS400 as I'm going to get. The information below is only my opinion, which is based on my experience over the years on various cars. I view the shock absorbers in the same way as the brakes, they need to be in good condition and working well and is all part of the safety aspect. When I buy a used car - check brakes first and sort them out if needed, second check shocks and sort them out if needed, then check the suspension arms/bushes etc and sort them out if needed. So how do you know if the shocks are on their way out and not working as they should? Can you really tell if the shock absorbers need replacing by simply bouncing the car? Unless they are absolutely shot and doing hardly anything at all or they are obviously leaking fluid, I don't think you can tell properly. Imho you can tell if the shocks are not working as well as they should when driving and only know for sure the actual state of them once the shocks are off the car and tested. However, shock absorbers wear just like the rest of the suspension, some makes of shock absorbers last longer that others but they will wear and lose their effectiveness eventually and gradually. Long term owners probably do not notice the gradual wear/reduction in performance and compensate accordingly, this becomes 'normal'. I’ve been told lots of times that the shocks are fine after a lot of miles, 150k, 200k, 250k, but are they ‘fine’? or is it that the owner has owned and driven the car for so long they have worn gradually and the owner 'thinks' they are ok. My Dad’s 2004 Mercedes C230k is a prime example, he bought it at 70k I think. Fast forward to 140k which was 2 years ago and I drove the car one day and thought the suspension is worn and the shocks are pretty bad. Do I mention it to my Dad and risk upsetting him? Of course I had to mention it and was the right thing to do, answer was - ‘nothing wrong, it feels fine to me’ but I knew it wasn’t. Long story short, he had his suspension rebuilt with new shocks and mounts etc etc etc, I did the front and his local garage did the rear. To quote my Dad, ‘It drives like a new car, you were right. I didn’t realise it was so bad, car drives better and feels safer/solid, easier to drive and doesn’t roll about’.

Maybe this

Back up for sale: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145029372439

Hi John, £160 for the pair from Parts in Motion via eBay.

Thank you Malc, it was a job I was putting off but glad I did it. Took the car for a few miles drive along some twisty bits of road and the body roll at the rear has gone. Threw it from side to side while driving as well, nobody behind of course, and it feels miles better. Before you could feel the body roll a lot at the rear. Top mounts looked fine to me and the bump stops were fine as well, insulators were goosed with the bottom few inches had detached. I should have taken a video of the new shock v old shock when compressed to see the difference. I have take videos of the old shocks though and you can see they have lost their performance. Probably not the most technical of test though but gives some idea. One is worse than the other. A new shock takes quite a lot of force to depress the shaft into the shock body and it then moves out quite quickly with force. The better of the two, decent amount of pressure needed to compress the shock but should need more and it does move out again although not as fast or with as much pressure as it should have. IMG_2322.mov The worse one of the two, very little force needed to compress and after compression the shaft just stayed there and would stay there. Maybe it would eventually come back out. IMG_2321.mov

On a roll over the holidays, replaced the rear shocks, top mounts, insulators and bump stops this morning. All OEM apart from the shocks which are KYB to match the fronts. I had put off this job because I’d read that it’s a pain removing the rear struts, needing to compress the springs on the car to remove the strut. After watching a YouTube video using ‘the method’ for doing this, it turns out it’s a load of hogwash. There is no need whatsoever to compress the spring on the car to remove the strut. All that is needed is to remove the bottom shock bolt, knock the shock off the hub, remove the top mount nuts (if not removed already), push down on the hub so you can lower the strut enough so the top mount studs clear the fixing holes, rotate 90 degrees, lower the bottom of the strut into the gap between the suspension arms, tilt towards you and remove. Absolute piece of cake and I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was. Invest in a white paint marker pen and mark everything on the existing strut while on the car to make things easier later on for alignment. Once the struts are off the car the tricky bit is aligning the shock, spring and top mounts so it’s in alignment to fit back on the car. I can’t document exactly how to do this but you need to use your noggin, comparing the strut you removed with the alignment marks and transpose them to the new shock and top mount. If you have no idea how to do this type of thing then don’t attempt it. Having an impact wrench on the spring compressors helps with reassembling the struts, the strut doesn’t move as much. Release the spring compressors gradually while checking the alignment is correct and adjust as needed. You can always compress the springs again and redo it. Getting the bottom of the shock to fit back in the hub isn’t straightforward because the bottom mount is not square to the shock. I found the best way is to push down on the hub and get the shock started at the back into the hub - aligned as best you can, using a mallet so as not to damage the new strut whack on the bottom ‘eye’ mount bit to get it into the mount. It won’t be perfectly aligned but it’s in. Then using a round tapering pry bar inserted through the mounting, jiggle it about to align it so the bolt will go through completely or about 2 inch, then tap the bolt with a mallet or hammer to get the both through. Putting the rear seats back in was a a pain because I was knackered, body was complaining and getting cramp in legs and fingers. Job for tomorrow was going to be the engine mounts, had a enough for a few days - my old body needs time to recover. Maybe a job for Monday😀

New discs and pads replaced this morning using new pad fitting kit and anti squeal shims. All Lexus OEM stuff I bought over 12 months ago. New discs and pads had been fitted by the previous owner but they were not OEM, the anti squeal shims and the spacer bracket things were missing. Intention was to leave the brakes until they really needed replacing. However, a few months after I bought the car there was a slight judder braking from motorway speeds. This seemed to disappear after a few weeks but over the last 6 weeks I had a pulsing brake pedal at low speeds when coming to a stop. Also, and this has always been the case since I bought the car especially after washing the car, when reversing off the drive you can feel and hear the front pads moving and clunking. Probably due to the spacer bracket things missing. Time to fit the new discs, pads and fitting kit etc and check the caliper pistons are ok cos it could have been that causing the pulsing. More common on floating/sliding calipers though. Pistons were fine, looked very good with very little rust on the piston front edges. Took me about 4 hours really taking my time, cleaning everything and applying the correct brake grease in the correct places. Working out where and how the anti squeal plates fit took a while to make sure I got it correct, workshop manual helps of course but still needs some brain power. Took the car for a short run, brakes are smooth as silk now and pads do not move when reversing. The brakes were fine before regarding stopping power. Even after just a short drive and before the discs/pads have bedded in, the difference is big. If anyone is thinking of replacing their discs and pads etc with aftermarket ( which I don’t do, I inherited after market discs and pads on the car), my advice is don’t……………use Lexus OEM stuff. The OEM discs and pads are not more expensive than decent aftermarket stuff but the pad fitting kit and anti squeal shims will add £100 to the cost if they are missing or not reusable.

I remember the price being £8.5k and now it’s £8,990, does any else remember what the price ‘was’ before? Or am I mistaken?

Solenoid is £119.58 from Amayama and filter is £36.28 so about £180 delivered plus any customs fees. Price excluding shipping is £155.86, I think customs charges etc are charged above £150 so there may be some charges. Plus the Toyota FIPG, Form in place Gasket, for the pan. Didn't know what FIPG meant until I googled it today, you learn something new every day!! and also some ATF - £50 from LPD for 5 litres. Price for the solenoid in the UK from a Lexus dealer...........................3 - 4 times the price or maybe more going off the solenoid below - 35270-30030 - on LPD at £407.86, it's for the same gearbox and is £84.27 from Amayama. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-gs-phase-2-shift-solenoid/ Also the video below shows how a guy fixed a solenoid (I think it is 'the' solenoid) on his car, dry joint on a connection inside the solenoid which explains the intermittent nature of the issue. https://youtu.be/Tz_gjj4Jdq0

What about this? This is for the A650E gearbox that is fitted. Looks like it’s up side down compared to the parts list diagram but which solenoid is which can be figured out I think. Going off the videos I’ve seen, where the solenoid is located in the videos and cross referencing the parts diagram with the TSB below, this is the one required I think - 35230-30010 01 07.2001 SOLENOID ASSY, TRANSMISSION 3WAY, NO.2 JCE10 https://at-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/manuals/Manual A650E.pdf

I'll second that👌

That sounds suspiciously like the ignition switch issue which can affect the MK4 LS400.

Is it the one in this video? If it is, the part number is shown in the video. https://youtu.be/ywmd4jF-NBo

Couldn't agree more, potential air suspension issues in the future which can be solved with a standard setup - radiator issue - plus a lot more electronics to potentially go wrong. I've always liked the LS430 in Gold and this one caught my eye. Bit of a whim to be honest but it's sold subject to viewing etc now so takes the decision making away for me, unless the sale falls through. The car is 30 mins away from me which was another reason it peaked my interest.

Hi, there is a nice 2004 LS430 for sale on Autotrader - link below - I'm interested in peoples thoughts on the car if possible please? I know it's not exactly a bargain price but most of the time you get what you pay for. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202302134213044

Easy enough to release the aux belt and spin the pulley. I took mine off and spun it as in the video. I believe Idler No 2 is the same on the LS430 - 16604-50030 - about £100 from LPD or the bearing itself can be pressed out and a new bearing pressed in - SKF6301 I believe but can’t be 100%.

Small job done this morning, aux belt and aux belt idler No 2 replaced. Tensioner pulley checked and is ok with no bearing noise. I bought a new tensioner assy and idler No 2 a couple of months ago from Amayama, bearings can become noisy and annoying so bought them while available. Plan was to fit them at some point this year. For the last couple of months I’ve heard a ‘chirp’ when starting the car in the morning, only when first started. Also, after all the work that has been done on the car I’ve always though there was a bearing ‘noise’ coming from somewhere. Since I heard the classic ‘chirp’ noise I decided it’s time to fit the new aux belt, idler No 2 and if needed the tensioner pulley/tensioner assembly if needed. Aux belt off, idler No 2 removed and checked, pretty noisy when the idler is spun. See video below.Looks like it was idler No 2 causing the noise. 42E5DE95-4945-49E0-88A8-D91FDBDFB94A.MOV

New gear assemblies with the motor are available from Amayama I believe at around £300 plus postage etc. 2 part numbers depending on year of manufacture. I think these part numbers are correct. There is a Lexus breaker as well https://lexusbreakers.co.uk/ 45810-50020 01 10.1994 - 08.1995 GEAR ASSY, TILT STEERING, W/MOTOR UCF20 or 45810-50030 01 08.1995 - 08.1998 GEAR ASSY, TILT STEERING, W/MOTOR UCF20

Couldn't agree more and check the side areas in the boot under the side flaps. The inner arches can rot through at the bottom so water gets in and if really bad it can continue all the way up the inner arch.

I’d have a go if it was my car and the condition of the car made it worthwhile. I’m not an ‘experienced pro’ in the mechanic sense but I’d back myself to get the engine out and fit a replacement. I’d also back myself to rebuild a 1uz engine if needed, rebuilt other engines in the past. Granted not as complicated or as big as the 1uz but the same principles apply and I have the workshop manual, experienced engineers/mechanics to call upon if needed.

What a shame, sorry to hear about it. I have no experience of replacing the engine in a LS400 or having one replaced and I don’t think there will be many people that do have experience to be honest. Having said that, if I was in your situation I would have a go at removing the engine myself. Initially not a great deal to lose removing the engine, a few quid for an engine hoist, time, effort and probably a lot of frustration etc. Then decide what to do. Purchase a used engine, check it over and if it’s ok then fit it to the car or rebuild the existing engine if possible. I do most of the work on my LS400 myself so easy for me to say and I’ve removed engines and rebuilt them in the past so I wouldn’t be fazed by giving it a go. Most garages won’t want to get involved, it’s a big car to be sat in the workshop taking up space, big lump of an engine to remove and something they have no experience of rebuilding or even looking at. And there is the cost for a garage to do the job.

This is from the manual And noticed this as well

They seem ok to me, nice and quiet and that’s what I wanted.

Update on the broken exhaust shield clamp, yes I could just leave it off or use a large jubilee clamp but I decided to buy the genuine OEM clamp. Cost for 1 x clamp approx. £25 plus the bolt at probably £2 and there are 4 of them. If one clamp has rusted and broke then the other are likely or could follow. So I ordered 4 x clamps and 4 x bolts from Amayama for £37 delivered with no duty or tax to pay on that amount. £10 more for the extra 3 x clamps and 3 x bolts.

Had it for just over 2 years, bought remotely from Lexus Wolverhampton with 3 years warranty.