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Absolutely, I think the SPA cars are a league or few ahead of the P3 cars. However, there's something else at play in my mind - modern cars have more torque than cars used to have - our Volvo had significantly more torque than my dad's V8 BMW, and trying to put all that torque to the front wheels doesn't work well. The V70 was terrible for torque steer. This is going to become even more significant with EVs, as the instantaneous torque, always available, will prove troublesome. In fact, many reviews of the Hyundai Kona EV already highlight this as an issue. Going forward, serious EV designs will be RWD (note that VW's MEB platform, the electric replacement for MQB, is RWD by default with an option for AWD) because the real reason for FWD in ICE cars was packaging - EVs are more efficiently packaged in RWD form, so VW's humble Neo hatchback will be RWD. It was difficult for me to buy another ICE car in the GS450h, and in my mind it is the last ICE car I will ever buy, so the only volvo currently on my radar is the Polestar 2, as a replacement for the Leaf. But if it's FWD then no...

Today I installed (hardwired) a dual-channel Viofo A129 Duo into our GS450h Premier (with rear sunblind). This is a guide on how to do it, to save anyone else time figuring out the stuff I had to figure out. For starters, don't disassemble your boot! I used the Viofo 3-wire hardwire kit (to enable parking mode). For this you need 2 add-a-fuse mini-blade fuse doublers. Front Camera The front camera location is best near the centre-line. The GS screen curves, so anywhere off the centreline starts to point outward to the side instead of forwards. I placed the camera just to the left of the Rear view mirror base, as there's some sort of camera sensor on the right-hand side at roof level. Also our car has the AHB camera on the centreline. From there, the two (power supply and rear cam) cables go up into the roof console, mainly to put the ferrite on the power cable somewhere. From there they run across the top of the windscreen, tucked into the headliner, to the A-pillar. The A-pillar is where things get a little interesting - there's no way you can tuck the cable at the A-pillar (and you wouldn't want to tuck across the top of the a-pillar anyway, as that would interfere with deployment of the curtain airbag). It is necessary to remove the A-pillar trim. Pull outwards at the top and it will come loose, but held by a captive clip (designed to prevent the trim becoming a missile when the curtain airbag deploys). You release this with a pair of needle-nose pliers, turning it to fit through the slot. You can just see the black head of the clip in the slot - it's tricky to photograph and tricky to get at. Once you've released that clip and the middle clip (just a push fit one) then you need to pull the trim piece up from the dashboard to remove the trim. Now you can run the wires down the A-pillar, along the sunroof drain tube (if fitted - otherwise that should leave plenty of space for your cables!). In order to do this most neatly, you need to go underneath the wiring connector you find there. Now feed the wires into the gap between the door and the side of the dashboard: This gets us to the passenger footwell, and onto our next section. When you replace the A-pillar trim, make sure you reinstate that top retention clip, otherwise it may interefere with the airbags. Power Supply For a 3-wire kit you need a permanent 12V and a switched 12V. In order that this all be completely reversible (ie not require any soldering, stripping, etc of the cars wiring looms) I used Add-A-Fuse units. I connected into the passenger footwell fusebox on the connections for Night Vision (not equipped, but fuse is present...) (This is our switched 12V) and into the Power passenger seat (permanent 12V). For ground, there's a handy bolt. The easiest way to do all of this is to drop the trim panel in the passenger footwell - I didn't realise how easy that would be at first. Simply pull it out and down. The bolt head exposed nearest the door is your easiest ground connection: And put your add-a-fuses into the locations described. That should cover power supply - note that you can not re-fit the fusebox cover with the add-a-fuses in place. Rear Camera wiring You've already got your rear camera wire down into the front of the passenger footwell. Simply tuck the wire under the plastic trim of the door sill, and continue along, past the B-pillar into the rear footwell and along the rear door sill also. There's a tight spot alongside the front seat, but you can hide the cable away entirely throughout this section. Continue along and tuck the cable up the side of the rear seat At the top, tuck the cable along the side of the parcelshelf, until you get to the rear blind. I was afraid that the rear blind was going to be very difficult and mean I'd have to go down into the boot and come back up (and I removed the boot trims to discover that this is pretty much impossible). However, it's actually trivial! Raise the blind, THEN feed the cable through, and tuck the cable down. The side track that the blind runs in doesn't continue much below the level of the parcel shelf and there's actually plenty of room to tuck the cable in! You can then put the blind down, partially to check that it isn't impeded but also to finish the job. Place your rear camera and tuck the wire around the edge as normal. Note that you can't place the rear camera high up because the blind will hit it when raised. I placed our rear camera just to the side of the Chimsel (That's a word! Honest! Comes from CHMSL - Centre High Mounted Stop Light). Writing all of this made it seem much easier than it felt like! Replace the removed bits of trim, and all should be good. Please note that this is for information and entertainment purposes only. If you blow up an airbag or fry your car's electrics when doing this, it is YOUR fault.

The above is why we bought a Volvo previously. I wanted a certain level of performance, which in BMW world would have been a 530d - however, finding an F10 530d Touring in SE rather than M-Sport spec was nigh on impossible - those few that there were were poverty-spec. We wanted a high-spec car with the oomph but without the hard ride and the V70 SE Lux D5 (+ Polestar = +20bhp) was basically the answer. The GS replaces the V70 and the GS is a distinctly better car in many ways, but it is firmer. It's a more comfortable suspension than my Honda accord (which although a great primary ride had basically no secondary ride at all - in other words it was beautifully controlled over crests and into big compressions, but "jiggled" like mad on surface imperfections), but the Volvo was significantly softer. The Volvo was far from being without fault - drastically underdamped (same shock absorber p/n as the ford mondeo, despite the front end carrying significantly more weight - kerb weight about 360kg higher - and having the springs to match) giving it a tendency to bottom out and then top-out. A couple of years ago I was on a business trip in Georgia when the owner of an associated company (one of our authorised repairers, in fact) insisted on taking me (and a couple of other guys) out for dinner. This turned out to mean a speedboat trip across Lake Lanier, but that's another story. The point of this anecdote is that he picked me up in his LS460 and drove... spiritedly.... along some fairly twisty back roads between Suwanee and Lake Lanier. It was the first time I'd been in an LS since 1999 (mk3 and mk4 400s), and I marvelled at the combination of smooth ride and controlled damping. My father had a 1996 BMW E38 740iL 4.4, and that shared that same combination of smooth ride and performance that BMWs now totally lack - I mean, it was on 16" wheels which you'd NEVER see any car in that sort of class riding on now. It is for this reason that I continue to hold Volvo in fairly high regard - yes, they have the R-design models, but the top-spec volvo models (Inscription) don't have stiffened suspension. They're not tuning their cars to be yet another BMW wannabe driver's car (as audi, mercedes and jaguar all slavishly follow BMW to do so) - they've recognised that Volvo buyers are buying Volvo because they don't want a BMW. I suspect, from looking at the underlying platform engineering (in other words, I've not driven one yet) that the newer SPA platform Volvos are distinctly more sophisticated than our P3 (ford EUCD) V70 was. The very long-winded point I'm trying to make is that I agree completely with Zotto and Steve44 - People spec M-sport BMWs with the Stelvio Pass in their mind, not a wet wednesday evening on the M62. The ES is probably a fine car in the real world, but motoring journos are a strange lot. So are company car buyers.

The GS300h has the same "limitation".

The mk3 uses glass-lens headlamps. Upgrade bulbs can help, but also at the age of the car it's likely that there's a buildup of dust and muck on the parabolic reflector inside the headlamp which is reducing light output - if you can clean that it will help significantly. The LS400 mk3 was the last of the glass headlamps. LS 400mk4 was the first to come with Xenons as standard. Xenon capsules suffer lumen degradation over time and you're talking about a 20 year old car now, so a new set of xenon capsules should show a benefit. You can also now get more tightly controlled geometry "upgrade" xenon bulbs such as the Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited - the LS400mk4 appears to use D2R capsules (based on a lookup on a bulb supplier - it is incumbent on you, the owner, to verify the correct bulb before ordering!) such as: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Osram-Xenarc-Xenon-Discharge/dp/B00EVCJ6KI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1547296347&sr=8-4&keywords=D2R+osram From my days of halogens, I found that the lifetime of Osram Nightbreakers was too short - they barely provided a lighting benefit over and above the (at the time) MUCH cheaper silverstar 2 bulb (which did offer a significant light output boost over regular halogens). A local motor parts place (the type with a counter, not a shop) should be able to do silverstar 2 in trade cardboard packaging for £5-£6, vs £10-£15 per bulb for nightbreaker that last less long.

That's very disappointing. I hope that you get your money back before long.

Fair enough - the point is to force the pistons to move relative to the caliper seals (which are what pull them back when brake pressure is released) without interference from any other system. Like I said, it might do nothing at all in this system.

My first dashcam was a mini 0801 - it died battery death after 18 months or so. I have had the Viofo A119v1 in our Volvo, A119Sv2 in our Leaf and have got the A129 Duo waiting to go into the GS. Viofo have impressed me with continued support (read firmware updates) and problem solving, plus the super-capacitor cameras are distinctly more reliable than Li-Ion dashcams. Don't bother with the A119 - the extra resolution comes with a wider view and no more datarate, so there's no better decipherability of numberplates or detail. The extra view width isn't necessary. If you want a single cam, get the A119S - better sensor and very good view. Set to 1080p30 (60fps doesn't gain you anything, and 30fps allows less compression per frame for the given datarate). Also make sure you get the CPL (and only the proper official viofo CPL - i got some cheapies that were only good for throwing away) to cut windscreen reflections.

I could be talking complete loblocks, but this might be worth a try. It might make no difference at all. Have you tried pumping the brake pedal with the ignition off? This forces the calipers to self-adjust to the current state of pad wear without the servo interfering. What I suspect might be happening is that as the pads have worn but the servo has masked any self-adjustment there is then a "gap" which becomes apparent in the hand-off between regen and friction braking. I have had similar moments in my Leaf. Free to try and nothing lost if it doesn't help.

My experiences... I've messed with different pads and discs in the past. My first experience of third-party parts were Black Diamond - like Larry, I liked the idea that the black coating would look smarter than regular rust finish on the bell and edge of the disc - the truth is that they rusted like any other disc anyway, before suffering serious cementite issues. The pads crumbled (chunks of pad material fell away), and I had to junk the whole lot. This was on my mitsubishi galant. I replaced with EBC greenstuff which were awful - no bite at all from cold (yes, I know that's an expected characteristic of higher performance pads, but they didn't display any higher performance than any other pad I'd tried on that car) and terrible dusting. On my Accord I had mintex pads and discs and these were great on that car. On the Volvo I got genuine volvo discs at a good price, and based on my prior experience with the accord I bought similar mintex pads. This was a mistake - the pads had been great on the ~1450kg Accord, but the 1860kg Volvo was a different matter - the pads couldn't cope with the weight. They never developed the level of friction required and would glaze easily (but still had 8mm on the front pads after 40000 miles). The point I'm trying to make is that different pads will introduce different behaviour - it might be more to your taste, but it might also be less so. If it is less so then saving a few quid wasn't worthwhile because now you'll be thinking of changing them again which will cost you more. Another point to please consider - this really affects my Leaf, and I surmise that it will to some extent effect the GS also. Hybrids and electric cars use the friction brakes much less than other cars due to the use of regen. That means the brakes stay cooler most of the time and so the cold bite of pads becomes more important. Putting a pad that needs some heat in it to work well (EBC rate redstuff as similar cold bite to their orange race pads) could be a very bad idea - or at least lead to an unpleasant and disconcerting driving experience. So far I've not seen any third party manufacturer come up with a compound optimised for EV and hybrid vehicles - it would be a very soft pad with low metallic content. It would generate lots of dust (but on the plus side the dust would be much less aggressive and more easily cleaned than high-metallic pads) and have a relatively short wear life (but one that would be acceptable given the lower duty of brakes on hybrid/ev), but provide strong braking from cold when needed. As it is, the vehicle manufacturers have some sway to develop the compound as appropriate to the characteristics of the vehicle, and I'm inclined to stick with it.

It's galled the Gay-Lussac Law. Pressure is proportional to temperature - temperature drops, pressure drops. Pump your tyres up to the required pressure when cold and TPMS won't come on.

Styling is a subjective matter. I actually like the ES fascia and spindle grille - many people find it "challenging" - but the same was said of the BMW E60 5 series. 15 Years later and the E60 looks much more modern than the C6 generation Audi A6 and the W211 E-Class. No, it's not the detailing of the ES that bothers me. It's the proportions. The ES styling for me high a high with the XV10 and MCV20 generations - the latter being very much a styling evolution of the former. I liked the minimalist headlighting of the XV10 (with the dual-projector setup being radical for 1991, and still pretty fresh and very much echoed in the LED headlamps of our GS) and the low fascia of that car, but the MCV20 had better proportions overall. The styling faux pas that the ES made really hit in the XV30 in 2001, and has persisted ever since. The very simple summary is that the front wheels are too far back - they are rammed up against the front passenger door (as many front wheel drive platforms suffer from) and then there's an overly long front overhang. The side-profile "pointiness" of the latest ES on the spindle grille sadly emphasises that. This is a point that Volvo have understood - P3 platform volvos (2006-2016 60, 70 and 80 series) suffered from the same thing, especially the S80. On the new SPA platform they worked hard to move the front wheels forward, and the result is some handsome cars - the S90 and new V60 are highlights, and the side profile proportions are excellent (admittedly the new S60 looks a little squashed-up around the back door, and the V90 is a little too raked in the tailgate for me. They're not perfect of course). Compare back to the GS side profile and you'll see that the GS has the front wheels further forward. Not entirely surprising because RWD cars design requirements are different and tend to push the wheels forward anyway, but the result is somewhat better balanced proportions. It's not all bad news for the ES - the latest version has definitely improved matters over the past 3 generations - the XV30 looked far too like a camry at the front and with an oversized corolla sedan back end. The XV40 was far too anonymous, and the bonnet line was far too high over the wheels. The XV60 had that same heavy front end, but the detail styling at least managed to alter that to a feel that was much more hewn and solid, like a smaller LS460 but still somewhat ungainly. The new ES at least loses that - partly due to larger wheel wells and larger wheels, but the styling has a feel for a lower bonnet and belt line. It would just look so much better if the front wheels were 4-6" forward and the rears maybe an inch or two back within the same silhouette.

I don't find myself a fan of the ES as a replacement for the GS. In the USA the ES has run alongside the GS ever since the GS launched (as the ES came first). Although of similar size, they've been pitched differently in that market - the GS as the "Sports Sedan" and the ES as the "Mid-Size Luxury Sedan". The GS platform and engineering is very nice as Hangie alludes to - It was brought home to me by this article: https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2013-lexus-gs-350-f-sport-suspension-walkaround.html Meanwhile, the ES is a Camry (well, TGNA-K now). That's ok, that has its place and that the ES has sold very well in the USA for many years is testament to that fact. The GS, however, is much more in-line with european tastes (much more akin to a BMW 5 or Mercedes E under the skin). For us a big part of the appeal of the GS was the freedom from the torque-steer that plagued our V70. Perhaps there will yet be a TNGA-N based GS.

Already is: https://www.lexus.com/models/LS/specifications Not in the UK, of course.

Sadly no... I'll PM you the story if you're interested.

That, sir, is ____ing gorgeous. My favourite colour! The tailpipes aren't my thing, but that is a beauty. Hope you don't mind the off-topic soujourn in to BMW land... This was my dad's. 1996 in Calypso red, but with the 4.4 and 5-speed: Rear comfort seat package on the LWB was great - recline and 4-way lumbar, and so much legroom. I sold the car in summer of 2017 after he died, these are the pictures from after I'd prepped it for sale.

I do love a good refurb project thread. Great work! Incidentally, last summer I sold my dad's old E38 740iL (1996N, 4.4 5-speed steptronic with comfort seats). It was a lovely machine in its day, but it was definitely tired.

See my next post in the thread for the answer. No.

I think the current N/A V8 models are the last of their kind. You can't get a german N/A V8 anymore, and ever tightening emissions regulations push down engine sizes and cylinder counts, with forced induction taking up the slack. However, very soon the performance game will move to EVs anyway.

I can confirm that on our 2015 the option is neither available in the menus on the car nor can Carista enable it - it does not come up as an option. Carista was usefully able to enable global open/close from the keyfob (open/close windows and sunroof when you hold down unlock/lock button). However, it seems like for whatever reason, Lexus have thoroughly blocked out the possibility of autolocking of the doors.

The trouble I have is that even knowing that, it's still far too tempting and far too easy to overdo it. 845 is psychologically easier to use sparingly. However, it's a ways off. The wash yesterday merely highlighted some areas where there's far too much wax and I need to spend some time cleaning the old wax away (among the GS450h and Hybrid badging for example). Then I'll crack on with a proper detail when the weather is better and I have more garage space (ie when the Volvo is gone).

That's an interesting possibility. Handedness is a funny thing - I'm right handed, and in general find myself somewhat klutzy with my left - I can't write legibly with it. However, when doing fine SMD soldering (I'm an electronic engineer) the reverse is true - I have the soldering iron in my right, and do the fine positioning with my SMD tweezers in my left. The finer motor skill is in the left hand in that case. It's a matter of conditioning and practice. Which is exactly where i suspect that the lexus mouse falls - once you get used to it then it's fine. At first it seems awkward, but once you get used to how it works, what it will and will not respond to, etc then it will be ok. Motoring journalists generally don't have that much patience.

I had that trouble with collinite, and my neighbour does too with 915. However, I discovered that it was user error on my and his part... Putting it on FAR too thick. 845 is much easier to use - it only needs a very thin haze which buffs off easily. I'll keep an eye out on the Chemical Guys stuff though - I use their Hexlogic pads and the maxisuds shampoo and been impressed with both. I suspect I've got enough collinite for a few years worth of applications yet though!

No, it's pre-facelift.

We have been looking for this option in our 2015 GS also. I watched a video for how to set the option and it's exactly where we were looking - vehicle customisation menu. As said, I think it's been removed. I'm working on plan B, however. On my Leaf there is no standard auto-lock option, but using an android app called LeafSpy with an OBD dongle allowed me to set it. It seems that it may be possible to set on the GS using an app called Carista - I will test it out tonight and report back. Techstream is another alternative, but it looks like Carista will do what I want without having to faff with USB and a laptop.