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Is it possible to code the DRLs to stay at full brightness when in side-light mode rather than them dropping in intensity?

If your parking assist on permanently, then maybe the sensors are picking up something as you drive past, like a traffic light pole, although I’d be surprised any road furniture would be close enough to set them off. Does it happen on the wide open road (like a motorway) or around town ? You could probably eliminate the camera sensing theory, by driving on a known camera road and see if it activates.

Being in t’North, you’re much hardier than us Southern folk ! 😜

Whilst cold leather seats in the morning aren’t ideal, it’s much more about clear windows for me. Bit OCD about it. I like full clear viz all around before I pull off the driveway, and running the car for a few mins first achieves that. My bonfire’s still good tho’, no worries !

Cheers Mark, I’ll look into that Enform app.

Hi all. With the cold mornings now upon us, does anyone know if it's possible to warm the car up safely locked on the driveway? I could do that with my previous car, but does the keyless entry on the 300h prevent this? Would be handy, especially given the rather weedy seat warmers! Thanks.

Don’t have a Lexus one, but have a decent next base at half that price in my 300h and also used it in my previous 5er. You can hide the wires under the door sills and various panels to make them invisible. I plug into the 12v socket in the car but next base also have a cable to allow a full hard wire to the car’s electrics.

With the eCVT, the 300h already has its own form of turbo-style lag, so as mentioned above I doubt either 200 or 300 will offer much difference on that point. But the 200 has a traditional auto box which behaves quite differently to the cvt in the 300, and you could find that you substitute gearbox shifting issues with a gear-less cvt “box” that may not give you the same driving experience as the 200 would.

It was a normal black steel space saver wheel and tyre suitable for the 17s on my Exec. Price was pretty similar to those on the Internet. There were a few cheaper on eBay but didn’t fancy taking the risk myself.

My OBD port is way under the steering wheel, pointing towards the footwell floor. You need to get on your hands and knees to even see it. It’s clearly not designed or expected to be used much ! So whilst I spent half my life with a Carly OBD adapter in my previous car, I’ll pass on the same advice I was given when I asked the same question recently ....... don’t worry about it, it’s a Lexus ! 😀

No worries. Btw, I bought the Lexus spare wheel myself a couple of months back when I picked up the car. It was £143 all in from Lexus Reading. Didn’t bother with the carry bag as that was another £100. It’s a bit clumsy having to carry it around in the boot but I don’t trust the can of goo. I suspect you may have to do the same as I don’t think the 16 will clear your F brakes.

But you will need to check the smaller wheel clears your brake callipers.

As long as the overall rolling diameter of the tyres is identical then it shouldnt matter if the actual wheel is smaller. You need to make up for the smaller wheel with a higher profile tyre wall. There are tyre size comparison calculators on line (like willtheyfit.com etc) that’ll show you what alternate tyres will match your current config.

I only ever put premium fuel (BP Ultimate) in my previous car but not so sure about the 300h. I can never see myself using supermarket fuel but think I’ll stick to decent branded regular petrol like BP or Shell rather than the premium Ultimate or VPower. I’ve only recently owned the car, and have only tried 2 tanks of both regular and premium since then. Can’t say I noticed any difference in either mpg or smoothness, but that’s far too short a period to tell. When I asked the dealer about premium fuel when I picked up the car, he noted that the Atkinson cycle on these petrol units is clearly aimed more for efficiency rather than power, so the additional Octane of premium fuel was unlikely to be as beneficial as opposed to a traditional Otto cycle ICE.

My 300h is the first car with sensors in the actual valves. Previous car (5 series) system was based on the rolling diameter of the tyre. So when it comes to needing a new tyre, do tyre-places know how to deal with this system please? Presume I’ll have to specifically mention it to them, but reading the above, does the car then need coding to register a new tyre? Can they reinstall in existing valve or do they need to put a new one in each time? Thanks

Thanks for the replies, will check those things. @rayaans anywhere specific on the b pillar? Thanks.

Hi all. I’ve noticed some buzzy vibrations around the passenger door area and roof. I’ve had a quick search on the forum and there’s a few comments on door seals but they tend to refer to rattles rather than annoying buzzing vibration sounds. Before I try to pinpoint it further, just wondered if this was a typical issue and whether there’s a fix. Thanks in advance.

Yes. The key fob stops transmitting completely and so is totally safe. Saves the battery too. The fob re-activates immediate as soon as you click the unlock button.

I recently started disabling the key as described above, just a couple of clicks before I go into the house. Seems to work perfectly and has quickly become habit.

One showing slightly better parking skills between the lines than the other ! 😀

Paul, Thackeray ... thanks both. Having spent the last 5 years on a beemer forum I get nervous if something isn’t wrong, or broken, or about to break on my car (or another members car); so I’m not used to such reliability and worry-free ownership !! I must remember I own a Lexus i must remember I own a Lexus i must remember I own a Lexus ...etc 😂

Your car is either not regenerating (cleaning the dpf by burning off the soot) or the dpf is just saturated. On my old BMW 530d, there were a number of parameters that needed to be met before regen can occur, including the coolant needing to be at least 75 degrees c, no fault codes on either dpf or glow plugs. Common BMW fixed we’re changing engine thermostats, clearing/replacing faulty glow plugs and clearing all dpf error codes. You probably need a handheld diagnostic kit to keep clearing the dpf codes on a decent motor drive while asking the car to force a regen. If you can’t clear it that way then chances are the dpf is saturated ( they have a life of c100k miles). I had mine cleared a couple of times but it tends to be only a temporary fix and the error comes back. You’ll have 2 choices .. invest in a replacement (expensive) or gut/remove the dpf and re-code the car to tell it to stop trying to regen. The later is illegal if the dpf was originality part of the car, and it’ll probably fail it’s mot. I would try and clear the car thru forced regents on motorway drives first. Sorry it’s not great news. My dpf was on its was out around 150k. That’s the reason I’m no longer in a diesel and on this site as a newbie hybrid owner. Not sure I’ll ever buy diesel again.

Thanks Darrude, appreciate the reassuring comment in a subject I’m still learning about !

Ok guys, tell me a bit about this old Traction battery then, please ! 😀 This being my first Hybrid, I’m not quite sure what to expect as normal or not. I appreciate that the charge meter will rarely show all full bars, as you clearly want the battery to be providing power either standalone or alongside the ICE. What I’m less sure on is how the meter should normally look & behave in the early stages of a journey. This morning the meter was 3/4's full on start-up but discharged down to a couple of bars quite quickly after 10 mins or so in slow stop-start traffic when it was mainly on EV. Seemed a bit alarming, but maybe this is normal? It did recharge again fairly quickly later in the journey as the pace picked up or it had some decent regenerative braking. But it was quite mild this morning, so I’m wondering how it will cope in much colder winter conditions. I presume the ICE does more of the work, but could the Traction battery ever discharge completely or does the ICE prevent it from reaching such a critical condition. And are there any indicators or warnings that it might not be in good health? I had an Bluetooth OBD dongle and App for my old car called Carly, which was useful for fault clearing, coding and generally monitoring. Do folk here use anything similar ? TIA

Great motor !! 😀 I always did love the shape of the E60 and will still look out for them even now I’ve moved on.