Sami Tilander

I can confirm this. They bolt directly to the shell... I've not noticed any difference on the road noise. Very silent car (except when the rear bearing was gone) BR.Sami

Now I'm interested! I've been thinking the same but had no time yet to start investigating the topic... I hope you will be posting your progress for us 😉 And thanx Chris for the wiring diagram! BR.Sami

Yes, a lot trickier than I excepted... but luckily I don't need the car right now, so there was plenty of time 😉 Here is list of parts I used: Rear Wheel Hub 42410-30020: Stark from Autodoc Bushings on axle carrier (no separate OEM numbers, not sold by Toyota/Lexus. Whole axle carrier is 42304-30090): Febest TAB-245 Febest TAB-238 Febest TAB-244Z 48710-53020 Arm Assy, Rear Suspension, No.1 Rh: MOOG RK641828 48770-30090 Arm Assy, Upper Control, Rear No.1: MOOG RK641830 89546-30070 Sensor, Speed, Rear Lh: Stark from Autodoc Bolts and nuts from local Lexus dealer: Bolt 91672-G1265 Nut 94151-21200 Bolt 91556-11475 (90105-14200) Nut 94151-21401 Washer 94622-51400 I also changed the parking brake springs and taps: 47447-10020 Pin, Shoe Hold Down Spring(For Front Brake) 90501-16118 Spring, Compression(For Parking Brake Shoe Hold Down) 47449-30030 Cup, Brake Shoe Hold Down Febest parts bought from http://shop.febest.eu MOOG parts from Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/ BR.Sami

Update (finally): dust deflector was pretty stuck, but I managed to get that out (without destroying it 😉 ) I decided to replace the bushings, so I ordered new ones from Febest. And then I took the axle carrier and new bushings and went to a local car service. They had a hydraulic press, which I don't have... Here is the axle carrier with new bushings: ...and here is all parts installed: All the needed pieces, ready to final assembly! Job done! The installation was so simple compared to the removal of the parts... BR.Sami

Here are two videos: 1. power on: 2. acceleration test: I remember that I did switch to Sport-mode in the start of acceleration... but I need to re-test that. But as you can see, no movement at all... BR.Sami

I've to say that I've never noticed anything changing on the suspension when switching to Sport... steering yes and gas pedal yes. My first test was simple: car running, open the hood, take plastic covers off, take one actuator into hand, ask somebody to switch to Sport. Nothing. Then I started to belive that it must be controlled by the speed and I did that GoPro test... I need to study a bit video editing & youtube to upload the videos (never done earlier). They are straight swaps, except for the actuators, of course. I had one stuck bolt, which needed to be cut, otherwise smooth & easy DIY. I first lowered too much, which caused problems with wheel alignment (there is not much adjustment possible with stock parts). Here in Finland you need to get the suspension & alignment inspected, so they need to be on specs. One hint: you probably want to adjust at least the dampers, so leave the plastic covers & trunk covers out for few weeks/months. It is painful to remove the covers for adjustments... BR.Sami

Well, nothing at all... I probably need to re-take the video to be sure, I only did one short shot... I'll try to share the video I took so you can see it too 😉 I've to say I was a bit dissappointed with that... I was even planning to re-install the actuators on top of the BR racing coilovers, but not any more... Maybe the system is just designed to speeds which are not legal on our streets? BR.Sami

Mmh... the regular springs were rated 14/10 is that shop I ordered my coilovers. I think mine are 10/8 (at least that is stated in the documents I got). This is the set I bought: https://mamasan.fi/fi/product/r-21-br/11869 with softer springs (sorry, in finnish and prices in €) BR.Sami

It takes some time to find out the best settings that suit you: there is so many things you can adjust on those. I'd claim that you can get the same ride as oem, if you wish... I wanted to lower the car a bit, and get a bit more "firm" ride. I got that... Many times the coilovers are for sport-setups, which are (IMHO) too hard/uncomfortable. Pay attention which kind of setup you order... Actuators are on my garage's table. No codes from that 😉 One piece of details: the oem actuator is able to turn the damper pin about 100 degrees only. That 100 degrees corresponds to about 4 "clicks" on my coilovers (max. is about 32 "clicks" = more than 3 full rounds). So the oem adjustment is rather limited in that sense too... BR.Sami

Hi Paul, I was in exactly same situation year ago: one leaking rear shock and with less money than changing both oem rear shocks, I was able to get new BC racing coilovers every corner 😉 I actually did a small experiment with the actuators: I connected one back, added a small visual scale there and took a video with GoPro to see how much the actuator will actually do any adjustment while driving. Result: nothing at all. At least in speeds under 120km/h. I did try with Sport and Normal modes, but no difference. The only movement was when power was turned on: then the actuator moves to both directions (probably to reset the settings). Btw, I ordered my BC Racing coilovers with softer springs, and I've been really happy with them. BR.Sami

Next problem... guess what this is: Hint: here you can see it from the other side: Just wondering how anyone can remove a stuck plastic part... safely. I had to drill and tap the remainings out of that hole (which was btw. covered with white stuff, probably salt...). Next will be the dust deflector... hopefully that pops off easily. BTW. When I first time tried to change the wheel bearing, I never found exact answer to the question: do I need to take the wheel speed sensor off before removing the dust deflector. The answer is pretty clear from that picture: yes, you definitely need to do that. The journey continues... BR.Sami

Update: I ordered that C-clamp press tool and that arrived on Friday. I tried to press the bolt out from the bushing, but it did not move a bit. Only the control arm metal gave up: Then I took the angle grinder and a cutting wheel... and now the axle carrier is removed! Next I need to figure out how to get those bolts still off... might be easiest just to replace those bushings? BR. Sami

Something like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Service-Tool-Set-Kit-4x4-4wd-Remover-Removal-Installer-Install-Tool/291915849500?epid=2164167082&hash=item43f78a5f1c:g:JDYAAOSwpkFY6HWy ? That looks like a tool I could try on the stuck bolt first... to see if I'm able to remove it without cutting it. Sami

Still one concern before proceeding: if I cut the bolt... how do I get the remainings out from the bushing? The bushing is in the axle carrier, and I'd assume that changing that bushing might be very difficult... At least, some kind of a hydraulic press would be needed, right? I could not find that part from RockAuto, but seems that at least Febest has them as replacement parts, so it can be replaced... BR.Sami

No help, I've been hammering that a lot recently... The rubber will also absorb part of the energy from the hit, I think. And thanx Lee for pointing to RockAuto, they seems to have very reasonably priced arms indeed... I found also from ebay few sellers selling Febest control arms. Any experience on Febest parts? Mmhh, maybe I'll order the new arms, put everything back (as I still can), and wait for needed parts before start cutting anything... BR.Sami

Hi all, I had a plan to replace the rear wheel bearing on my GS450h... This time I planned to follow the offical guide to remove the whole axle carrier... only to discover that both upper control arm and lower control arm bolts were stuck inside the bushings. I got the nuts open, but the bolts do not move at all. What are my options? Should I try to cut those bolts? Or try with heating and probably destroy the rubber bushings? All help appreciated... BR.Sami

Hi John, a quick question about the rear brakes: is it easy to remove & install the piston's dust seal? I'm cleaning the calibers but wasn't sure if I can remove that safely... Any recommendations for the grease to be used with the slide pin? BR.Sami

"Check system" = communication problem between ECU and sensor. Use TechStream to check which sensor is giving this error. "Low tire" = communication ok, pressure is below the limit. Did you replace all four sensors, or just one? Could it be another sensor failing this time? Typically they just run out of battery, and it likely will happen to all of them sooner or later. BR:Sami

Nope, I don't see any error light nor message. Not even when toggling the Sport/Normal switch... Interesting if John got error light... BR.Sami

That does not harm either (I've my actuators sitting on garage's table right now: switched to BC Racing Coilovers in the last summer)... BR.Sami

And if you really want all the nasty details, check this Technical Report: "EVALUATION OF THE 2008 LEXUS LS 600H HYBRID SYNERGY DRIVE SYSTEM" https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/947393 It is for LS600h, but GS450h is quite similar (as far as I know)... BR.Sami

Search for "Prius Power Split Device" (PSD) for more information. One example here: http://eahart.com/prius/psd/ (requires Flash, but explains quite nicely the function of the PSD) BR.Sami

Not in Fort Knox, but probably in Lexus Tech: https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Menu/Repair (3€/h for accessing all manuals...) BR.Sami

Mmh... is this UK only? I checked my local (Finland) Lexus pages and also Lexus Europe's webpages: both still have max. 10y warranty: https://www.lexus.eu/owners/servicing-and-maintenance/hybrid-health-check/#hybrid-health (In Finland there is also max.350.000km in addition to that 10y limit, interesting,,,) Hopefully this is coming to Finland too... BR.Sami

Nice video, thanx for sharing this! Keep us updated if you face any issues with that Autel sensor... BR.Sami