Twellsie

do you know if they removed the brake pistons for inspection? if you look at the callipers you will see that the pistons on the leading edge a smaller, then they get progressively bigger, this is done so that the leading edge of the pad makes contact first, generally if there is any signs of corrosion on this small piston it means the pad is contacting the pad flat at which point you have a significant pressure difference between the front and rear pistons and the centre piston is acting as a pivot, allowing the pads to squeal at low breaking force, does it stop under heavy braking?

Hmm I am no longer sure that will be the case, latest emission regs mean that component cooling feuling will not be a viable option going forward, this will mean that turbo charged engines are also not really viable so perhaps we will be going full circle and returning to larger capacity N/A for performance engines ( this is one of the issues BMW have recently faced with their M engines).

the wheels look great, but if I am being really picky the front tyres look pretty stretched compared to the rears, what wheel/tyre combos are you running?

Where did you get your black badges from?

I can't understand how this is enforceable, to my knowledge there is no actual noise limit?

I've been in a 570bhp mk 2 escort and its insane, I have a friend building a 800bhp cosworth YB Triumph Dolomite, full carbon body, target weight is sub 800kg

I always seal my wheels with Carbon Collective platinum wheels, then use Sonax wheel cleaner to keep them clean

best two tweeks I know for reducing under bonnet temps are firstly remove the bonnet, the second slightly more drastic, remove the engine

right, will keep it brief as it late and I am tired, but this test is in no way conclusive, firstly by blocking the bonnet vent and removing the engine cover you are changing how the air flows within the engine compartment, buy only having one sensor you do not get the picture of the total under bonnet temps, the temperature may reduce in this area but increase in others, secondly, for any test to be meaningful you need a baseline, this test has clearly been done with back to back runs, the ambieant temps have increased but also the latent heat within the engine has increased, first test you are cooling a moderately cool engine with cool air, last test you are testing a warm engine with warm air and cooling curves are not linear, we are comparing apples with eggs!!

what a load of gash!!!

as others have said it should clear after a number of starts, I had similar when I switched the engine on without remembering to reconnect the MAF

that's really good to hear, mine is getting close to needing a service and it was Coventry I was planning to use

@Peter P18 Good luck with the sale buddy, you have done an amazing job with he car, it will not be everyones cup of tea, but it will be someones shot of tequila

and the brakes are on, next step calliper refurb!

I have tried EBC a few times over the years, green, yellow and blue and have never been happy, do Euro car parts not do Btrmbo pads for the GSF?

some better pics

fronts are 19 x 8.5 ET 38, but spaced out another 15mm, which would make them et23 with 225 40 19 tyres, rears are 19 x 9.5 ET 38 with 255 35 19 tyres

wheels are on!

There are various options with the disks, based on coatings, floating/non-floating etc, they start from around £1100 for a set of 4, mine came in at £1300 from memory

nope, no plans of JPS stickers 😂

totally agree and its been the same in the Mercs I have owned

it all depends where the weight is saved, example if you save 15kg of unsprung weight on a 1500kg car, you would notice the difference!