BachelorDays

I've heard good things about Delphi products including coils, but no personal experience.

Thought I'd close this discussion by giving my findings. I took the coil out and wished I had examined it myself when the mechanic switched it. The sleeve shows heat damage (picture attached). Also, I went ahead with getting hold of a used 90919-02255. Been using it ever since. Works great. I don't drive much but on occasion I do long drives. Went to Amsterdam and back without any issues. I like the 90919-02255 construction better, the sleeve feels stronger. Anyway, worth the mention. Cheers. PS Checked with the garage I'm using for the Lexus and they say they use aftermarket coils and not had a problem with them. They are trade only so I can't buy them directly, but they did quote circa £40 for one.

I had a chat with a mechanic today (my car was already booked for a parking brake service/adjustment). He didn't find anything wrong with the colour of the coil, so it's not burnt. We switched bank 6 (the suspect coil) with bank 2 - now we wait for the next time there is a misfire. The connector on bank 4 has a tightening clip on it, so it's pretty obvious these coils have caused issues in the past. I asked the guy about aftermarket coils and he said Denso or Toyota and nothing else. In the absence of any other recommendations in these forums or on net generally, I'll probably run with this for the time being. However, in looking into this a bit more the one thing I've found is that the RX350 coil code 90919-02251, when referenced in the other aftermarket coils (including the Denso 673-1309), cross-references to 90919-02255. In other words, the ignition coils for the RX350, RX450h and ES350 are the same spec. Would you guys agree? @GrahamG I'm going to do the same - put a spare in the car. I hope any trouble I have stays to the front 3. But I want to try the 02255. @Delphius1 There are some European manufacturers in the list as well. Unfortunately my annual mileage is very low so I won't prove anything even if I have one installed.

Finally took a look at it. This one (6th cylinder) looks burnt on the top! I took it out and checked it was an original. The sleeve itself has no discolouration nor does it have any cracks, but the top colour indicates it's burnt, doesn't it? Is this just a coil gone/going south or is there more to it in your experience with these cars? Started the car and it's still running fine (no EML). Mileage is 81k. Anyone on aftermarket coils?

I had a rough idle on my car about a month ago at the end of the MOT test. The guy there read the code and suggested a coil pack (but he didn't know which one). I thought it was just a hiccup because of all that lifting of the car so got home and disconnected the battery to clear the code. All was well after that. I've driven maybe 250 miles since then (lots of short city trips), but yesterday, in the middle of crawling traffic, the engine suddenly started running rough (EML and VSC lights came on). I wanted to get home so kept going - slow traffic - and would shift into Neutral when stationary to keep the car from shaking. About 10 minutes later, though, the idle suddenly cleared and I came home fine. Checked the code and I had a Pending P0356 (coil pack F). Started/ switched off a couple of times and the Pending became Current. With the rain and all, I haven't done anything today - I will take out coil pack 6, examine/clean and switch with 4 - see how that goes. I've noticed lots of aftermarket coil packs around. Denso seems to be available only from USA, but these others being sold - STARK, Lemark, Kerr Nelson, Delphi... Anyone tried any of these? I think I'll keep a spare with me even if the cleaning exercise works. Cheers PS I did clear the code and the lights stayed off on next engine start.

Could you reset the drive by restarting the car?

Must be me, but I had no luck finding the micro fuses online. Every time I tried I got ones which were ever so slightly longer than the ones in my car (under the console box). The ones I need are 8.8mm in height and the ones that are available are 10mm. The picture shows the difference. I know Halfords do them (although I am loathed to pay those prices for fuses).

There's stacks of stuff on the net on stuck wheel locking nuts. Happens a lot and can be a nightmare to remove. It's likely to be more than just over-tightening. Probably rusted in. Next step would be to hit the nut hard to try and dislodge the rust. A good sized hammer, but be careful not to hit it at an angle. You could also try spraying some WD-40 or the likes around the stem before hitting it. Heating it with a blow torch is also an option in some cases. The last resort is to cut into the locking nut and then screw it open with force. There are people out there who specialise in this type of work. I hope the hammer works.

I meant dry rot. Cracking in the rubber.

Happens once every two years. Bravo! I'm sure if it was an ECU issue it would surface more often and for more people. So probably not this. Problem with the pedal/pedal assembly/wire? No harm in a visual around the pedal and under the bonnet. Cruise control switch et al. The "et al" includes the clock spring. Biggest issue is - how will you know you've fixed it, except if you find something obviously out of place?

Just been discussing them in my post So how bad were yours?

May well be, but in my experience a tyre gone dry will eventually start losing pressure. That's a sure shot sign for me to replace it - but that's not saying I'll necessarily wait for this to happen before changing the tyre.

On tyre life I go more for 10 years, but it depends on the manufacturer. Mind you, this is my experience with cars and maybe with SUVs it's different. That's why I posted the Michelin picture, since in my experience of Michelins (but on cars), at 5 years with 6mm tread the edges still look polished. Thanks for the Toyotec reference. I've seen them recommended before as well. There's another recommendation for a garage in Sidcup but I think it'll be a better drive to Redhill. Any experience of Toyotatech in Guildford? Google maps shows it as a very small operation but the chap has been recommended in our forums in the past.

Brilliant! I saw the post about Orchard Engineering and discussed this process with a garage about a week ago. I thought this would be possible and therefore not have to go to the place with the car. You've just confirmed it.

Near Side Rear (this one doesn't maintain tyre pressure over time). Off Side Rear (retains tyre pressure fine but I think the dry rot - cracks - are getting serious now) Now, what's this Michelin (dated 1214) doing beginning to crack up at 5 years?! 6mm tread left on this too!