Herbie

It is not a failure, it is an advisory. The car has passed an MOT but attention has been drawn to a chip in the windscreen and it is/was apparently so small that it was only noticed at MOT time. If it really was anything major it would have been seen well before then.

I rather think that would very much be a case of chucking out the baby with the bath water. First of all, it's an advisory, not a fail - the car has actually passed the MOT (assuming there's nothing else that you haven't mentioned). Secondly, as long as it's out of the critical area and not too big, a repair will more than suffice. I had a car with a stone chip that appeared as an advisory on every MOT for 5 years but never got any worse. When I sold the car the dealer put it through an MOT for the new owner and it was still noted as an advisory. Some info on windscreen areas and chips/cracks That implies that it's only a very small chip or it would have been seen earlier. It may even just be an over-zealous MOT tester covering his backside.

Great write-up and photos. I got so wrapped up in the job that I forgot to take any photos when I installed cameras into my RX. One question though - if you didn't fit a rear cam why did you go to the trouble of removing the door sill/scuff plate? Oh, and the footwell cover? Surely they don't expect folks to remove the footwell cover to replace a fuse on a cold and wet night?

Well, I'm amazed - turns out that there is a cable behind there after all.

I doubt very much that there are any physical cables except maybe for the neutral switch and I don't even expect that, to be honest. It may be a big chunky lever but I think it's controlling electronics. I'll confirm for you later when I get chance.

Well, it can't work without a power supply so are you sure you pulled the correct fuse? It's the one marked on the lid as H-LP LVL.

Simple way to make sure the battery is being charged (if, by "house" you mean the 12V battery) is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals, which should be as per the chart below. Put the car into READY mode and measure again - it should now show about 14.5V if the charging system is working correctly.

It has ended as far as I can tell; no option to select it/buy it anymore. So have you now committed to buy the car or not, because this is torture. I'm losing what little hair I have left in wondering how this is all going to end

I understand and appreciate that as I have health issues that affect my day-to-day life too, but it seems to me that you're just not going to be happy without seeing it in the flesh, so to speak. Could you not make a short break of the trip and stay overnight somewhere to break up the journey - treat it as a couple of days holiday?

Maybe you just had a faulty unit? Mine works just fine.

Have a look at this topic I started recently. This is the unit I bought and it claims to be compatable with the LC 2014-2020.

Also be aware that to restart it you need a minimum of 10 litres, preferably more, and if it fails to restart three or more times the hybrid system can lock out and requires a dealer to get it going again. It's really not good to run out of fuel.

Sorry Dan, I may well be wrong. I hadn't realised that this thread is about the NX, not the RX. Here's the page for the RX:

What makes you think these reasons are "excuses"? https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/355016/global-chip-shortage-hits-car-makers Stick with what you've got for now until the situation improves.

Hi John, Yes, that does look the same. This is the one I got from China (Aliexpress) No, sadly it won't. The first device is the actual decoder unit and is basically just an interface that allows the phone to talk to the car in such a way that you can display your phone screen on the bigger car screen. It's like screen mirroring in a way, but specifically set up for cars and their drivers. You'll still have to take the car apart no matter what, because that's the only way to connect into the big screen and also connect to the steering wheel controls so that you can continue to use the originals. If you think of it like this: phone > decoder > car. Apple Carplay can connect the phone to the decoder wirelessly, whereas Android Auto needs a USB connection between the phone and the decoder** That second unit you linked to does this job. The unit has a physical connection to the decoder but it can be hidden away in the centre console armrest or any other cubby hole and will connect to the phone wirelessly. **EDIT: My Xiaomi Mi 10T Lite phone recently had an upgrade to Android 11 and now it will connect wirelessly.

I promise that when I've mastered using it myself I'll post some more stuff, maybe a video, but right now it's very much a matter of playing with it and see what happens. I'm hoping to get more apps on the screen but not much success as yet. As for the DIP switches, I think it was either 234 or 235 on, everything else off. They only control the display so if you get it wrong it maybe shows nothing, maybe top half or whatever, but at least it does no harm when playing about with them.

That's a good outcome, excellent. On the other hand, thinking of 'reasonable expectations' and how it fits in with Sale of Goods Act or whatever, is two years really all we can expect from a car battery these days? Batteries were lasting longer than that 15 years ago.

Why would that be James? Surely, pressing the button will turn it off so when you want it back on again it would be press the button and set the speed, instead of just pressing RES(ume)?

Get your head down in the driver's footwell and you should see a lever to pull, usually somewhere around the bottom of the trim. If it's not there, try the passenger side.

Is that a fancy way of saying 'the lip around the edge'? I haven't got a 3RX anymore so I can't easily check.

Batteries should be guaranteed for more than two years. My last Varta (I think it was) had a 5-year warranty.

There is a topic in which one or two are mentioned but, of course, I can't find it now. Can you not get this one replaced under warranty?

As I said in another topic somewhere on these forums - in my head I'm about 20, my body often feels about 80, but in reality I'm 63, so take your pick

You've obviously been reading the wrong theory books: BELL LAB PROVES EXISTENCE OF DARK SUCKERS! For years it has been believed that electric bulbs emitted light. However, recent information from Bell Labs has proven otherwise. Electric bulbs don't emit light; they suck dark. Thus they now call these bulbs dark suckers. The dark sucker theory, according to a spokesman from the Labs, proves the existence of dark, that dark has mass heavier than that of light, and that dark is faster than light. The basis of the dark sucker theory is that electric bulbs suck dark. Take for example the dark suckers in the room where you are. There is less dark right next to them than there is elsewhere. The larger the dark sucker, the greater its capacity to suck dark. Dark suckers in a parking lot have a much greater capacity than the ones in this room. As with all things, dark suckers don't last forever. Once they are full of dark, they can no longer suck. This is proven by the black spot on a full dark sucker. A new candle has a white wick. You will notice that after the first use, the wick turns black, representing all the dark which has been sucked into it. If you hold a pencil next to the wick of an operating candle, the tip will turn black because it got in the path of the dark flowing into the candle. Unfortunately, these primitive dark suckers have a very limited range. There are also portable dark suckers. The bulbs in these can't handle all of the dark by themselves, and must be aided by a dark storage unit. When the dark storage unit is full, it must be either emptied or replaced before the portable dark sucker can operate again. Dark has mass. When dark goes into a dark sucker, friction from this mass generates heat. Thus it is not wise to touch an operating dark sucker. Candles present a special problem, as the dark must travel in the solid wick instead of through glass. This generates a great amount of heat. Thus it can be very dangerous to touch an operating candle. Dark is also heavier than light. If you swim deeper and deeper, you notice it gets darker and darker. When you reach a depth of approximately fifty feet, you are in total darkness. This is because the heavier dark sinks to the bottom of the lake and the ligher light floats to the top. The immense power of dark can be utilized to a man's advantage. We can collect the dark that has settled to the bottom of lakes and push it through turbines, which generates electricity and helps push it to the ocean where it may be safely stored. Prior to turbines, it was much more difficult to get dark from rivers and lakes to the ocean. The Indians recognized this problem and tried to solve it. When on a river in a canoe traveling in the same direction as the flow of dark, they paddled slowly, so as not to stop the flow of dark, but when they traveled against the flow of dark, they paddled quickly so as to help push the dark along its way. Finally, we must prove that dark is faster than light. If you stand in an illuminated room in front of a closed, dark closet, then slowly open the door, you would see the light slowly enter the closet, but since the dark is so fast, you would not be able to see the dark leave the closet. In conclusion, Bell Labs stated that dark suckers make all our lives much easier. So the next time you look at an electric light bulb, remember that it is indeed a dark sucker. Sorry, I couldn't resist 😄

No worries Vlad. Just be aware that that chart is what Lancashire Constabulary use - I don't know if other forces use the same or not. I know about the next penalty if it should happen again. The points stay on for four years so if it happens again during that time there's no discussion, no speed course, just straight to points and a big fine. This is why I'm now paranoid about sticking to the limit and glancing at the speedo every few seconds.