Herbie

Hell of a lot of messing about Wireless connection is ok for short runs but for anything substantial you'll want it wired anyway - no point reaching your destination to find that your phone only has a few percent of its battery left.

Comparison sites work by making a lot of assumptions. Just make sure that all the info is correct and if it is, great job

Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and try again David.

I don't think it is. I can't see a button for ride height anywhere and I'm sure the SE-L would have both the Mark Levinson audio and also cooed as well as heated seats.

I suppose it may depend on if they have a dedicated machine to do hybrids with. If they only have one machine they may be wary of cross-contamination between the ND11 oil for hybrids and the PAG oil for conventional cars and don't want to be landed with a huge bill if the machine isn't adequately cleaned.

If you load it up that voltage may drop like a stone, which is why you really need to load test a battery. In the old days you could just turn on high beam lights, heated back screen, heated seats and loads of other stuff without turning on the ignition but these cars need to be in READY mode for most of these things to work, which is no good at all. As soon as the car is in READY, the 12V systems are being run from the DC/DC converter via the traction battery.

Jump start and recharge are two very different things so let's make sure we've got this bit right first. First of all, you say that you've bought a charger but have you ordered it and waiting for it to arrive or have you already got it? If you have got it and you've tried to charge the battery with it, how long did you leave it on charge? At the very least it needs to be an overnight charge, say from 8pm to 8am, preferably a full 24 hours. I don't know anything about that brand of charger but the whole idea of an intelligent charger is that it won't overcharge the battery so no harm should come from it. It is possible that the 12V battery is so badly discharged that it's been damaged and it just won't recover, no matter how long you leave it on charge and this brings us to the second point. I'm not too sure about this (just a guess) but it may be that your battery is so flat or damaged that it's interfering with power coming from the jump leads. Try disconnecting your battery so that it's completely out of circuit and out of the equation, then connect the jump leads directly to the cable clamps. This means that you'll have a 'known good' 12V source for the car so hopefully it should achieve READY status as normal. If it makes no difference and the car still won't start, it may be that the hybrid system has locked out. I know that if a hybrid runs out of petrol it needs at least 10 litres (preferably 15) putting in the tank before you attempt to restart it. The most important bit and the bit that may be pertinent to you is that if you have more than three unsuccessful attempts at restarting it, the hybrid system can lock out and it needs a dealer to reset it. NB - I don't know if this happens ONLY with lack of fuel or if it's just a general '3 attempts and you're out' sort of thing irrespective of cause.

Go to a shop that sells car batteries, even Halfords if you have to, and ask them to do a load test on the battery for you, which they will usually do free or maybe just a couple of quid. Did you actually read the codes first or just clear them? Ideally, a laptop with Techstream is the best way of reading OBD2 fault codes but if that's not possible a generic code reader may help

Of course not - rubber is a great insulator 😄

Rather than editing my previous post I decided to add this one in because, unless you've removed the back seats completely, and then removed the battery cover by first removing 28 bolts and 6 nuts, whatever you're looking at is not the HV Relay Assembly. Here's the removal procedure:

The O2 sensor is to do with emissions.

You really need to get the OBD2 codes read or read them yourself if you have a code reader. Once you tell us what the code(s) are we can then point you in the right direction. Without codes, it's all just guessing.

Absolutely yes.

It could be. As David said, a photo would help us to see what you're seeing but yes, it looks likely. The contactor is part of the HV Relay Assembly:

Not sure about tax but insurance has to be continuous, just in case it gets nicked or bursts into flames or whatever.

What problems are you having and what led you to this negative contactor? What OBD2 codes have been generated?

I started with a 2005 RX300 SE NAV then traded in for a 2013 RX450h Advance, which was traded in for my current 2018 RX450h Luxury so I suppose I'm a bit biased towards the RX 😄 Every car I've had for the last 30 years has had a sunroof (except my current one) and I've never had any of them open, much preferring instead to let the Climate Control do what it does best. You simply set the cabin temperature that you want and the CC system will mix hot/cold conditioned air to achieve and sustain that temperature for you. Plus, you don't get your head sunburned if you happen to be 'thinning on top' like I am! I would choose the RX over the NX all day long and from what I can gather, although the NX should be better on fuel, it is, but not by very much at all.

In that case then, 128GB or larger microSD card, wired connection to Android Auto and use VLC Player, Black Player or whatever to play the music from the card.

RX450h all day long.

Wow. I did my apprenticeship at a factory and literally within two months of completing it we were told that the factory was going to be shut down. I jumped early and joined what was then Post Office Telephones and spent the vast majority of my working career as a cable jointer there, never working as an electrician again. I really loved jointing though, great job.

Good grief Steve, the last time I had anything to do with that was during my electrical apprenticeship, 1974-1978. You've just blown a lot of dust off some little grey cells there my friend And as for things to do when the football is on, you can't beat a bit of this:

Which app(s) are asking for or showing this info and are you sure that the app is reporting these things to someone or something 'out there' in a sinister sort of way, or is the app just giving you the information, in which case it's perfectly harmless? I recently installed a tracker in my car in case it's ever stolen and, of course, that very information is exactly what it needs to report to me. Unless your parents didn't register your birth and you've never appeared on any official database whatsoever (never been to school, never been to hospital/GP etc), I'm afraid that any attempt at privacy now is just futile. You're already well and truly 'on the books' as it were.

What "telematics" from Android Auto?

Excellent news (well, mostly). I, too, live in Preston so it's good to know that our dealer is a good 'un As for the navigation, it's long been the Achilles' Heel of the Lexus brand but surely it should either come with Android Auto/Apple Carplay or just need a software update to allow its use? You can then use any far superior mapping/navigation app of your choice.

No, no and thrice no! Why spend all that time and money and then lock it away? Use it as a car is meant to be used, i.e., drive it and enjoy it to the full.