Herbie

Putting that part number into Google returns this:

The high voltage traction battery will last 15 years but the normal 12V battery won't.

A photo of how it's currently fixed on there may help (and a general photo or two of the car would be nice as well) but it's usually just stuck on and you should be able to pry it off then tape it to the new battery. EDIT: OK, forget what I said about it being stuck on. It's a good job Colin's here

As Nigel says above, it can be done but it's not wise to do it. If things are working as they should, the radio will shut itself off after about 20-30 minutes to conserve 12V battery power, otherwise it'll just flatten it. Always put the car in P and READY mode. That way, you can listen to the radio indefinitely and the petrol engine will fire up as and when needed to keep the batteries charged. As an aside, don't use N. Either keep the car in D with your foot on the brakes when waiting for short periods at lights for instance, or for longer periods, maybe at railway crossings, put it in P, but don't use N because the traction battery will not charge when the car is in Neutral.

No, I'm not having that. When I got my first Lexus hybrid I just read the manual cover to cover because I'd never had a hybrid before and wanted to learn as much as I could about it. It's not difficult at all to read a manual and it really does contain most of what we need to know. However, I'm very much of the belief that males are genetically pre-programmed not to read manuals but to learn by poking buttons, flicking switches, and seeing what happens

In a nutshell, the new Relax warranty is good but not as good as the Extended Warranty that we've been used to for years. Relax doesn't cover things like shock absorbers or multimedia head units or headlight units, to name just three. All of these would have been covered on the old Extended Warranty. I have the old-style 'proper' one in place and I'm covered until March 2024 and I'm leaving it like that, after which I'll then be put on Relax unless something else happens in the meantime.

Only the latter can cause expensive damage if you're unlucky and the last three lines of Mincey's post above sum it up nicely. First and most important point to note is that the 12V battery on any car, conventional or hybrid, is only used to get the car started. Once the conventional alternator or the hybrid DC/DC Converter is running, that will supply all the 12V systems and also charge the 12V battery. When jump starting, the normal procedure is to start and run the engine of the donor car before attempting to start the recipient car. This is so that the recipient will draw current from the donor alternator (or DC/DC Converter) rather than the donor battery.* A hybrid car does not need a lot of current to get it into READY mode or if you prefer, to start the car. In a (very unscientific) test that I did, it would seem that around 20A is more than enough. A conventional car starter motor can draw upwards of 300A when cranking the engine, which is fine because alternators are designed to supply that demand. However, the DC/DC converter on a hybrid car cannot supply anywhere near that amount of current, which is why a hybrid must never be used to jump start a conventional car. I think there is some electronic wizardry within the converter to prevent excess current draw from it but if, for whatever reason, that failed, the converter would likely make a huge bang and produce lots of smoke. There is no danger in using a conventional car to jump start a hybrid, just never try it the other way round. *Given that hybrids take so little current to achieve READY mode, there is no need to have the engine of a hybrid donor car running and it wouldn't make a difference anyway.

As far as I know, it's not possible but I'm sure someone else will confirm either way.

Never heard it called that before, more usually infotainment or multimedia head unit. I've never had a GS430 so I can't help, but good luck.

And that would be telling you that your car can't use E10 then. You'll be able to still run it on Super Power or whatever each brand calls their 'top' petrol though because that'll still be around for a long time yet. Sadly, it'll mean paying more but at least you'll be able to still enjoy your car.

EMV?

Why would anyone want such a hideous looking thing as that?????

Just.....why???

.

First hit on a Google search for 'E10 Checker' is this https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol

Why not? All cars have cats so all cars are targets. It's just that some are percieved by the criminals as being worth more than others.

Have you interrogated the live data/freeze frame using Techstream?

Because your profile says it's a 2009 car and the new Lexus Relax warranty only covers up to 10 years old/100k miles, the old Extended Warranty covered 10 years old/140k miles, although with some shrewd manipulation you could manage to lengthen it to 12 years.

Given that immobilisers only come into play once the car has already been broken into, I prefer to go for deterrent and the 'prevention is better than cure' approach, which is why I use a big, bright yellow, Stoplock Pro Elite steering lock. It's not pretty but in tests and trials it took more than five minutes with hammers, chisels and saws to defeat it, so hopefully they'll see it through the window and decide to move on to an easier target somewhere else. By the way, regarding your earlier question about warranty, your car will be too old for a warranty anyway at 12 years old.

I can't guarantee it but I don't think it would affect any warranty The biggest problem I could forsee is that if the car won't start one day, how would you know if it was the Ghost or the car that had gone faulty?

If you don't know what you're doing, yes, it is - but I would hope that people know their own limits and if they don't have the correct protective gear, or if they aren't comfortable working with the sorts of voltages that can be found in there, then they would have the sense to take it to someone who does.

Any progress on this yet Jenny?

I'm not sure a generic code reader will handle Toyota/Lexus specific codes for their hybrids, will it?

I would imagine that it's just the eCVT doing what it does. Everybody's engine revs for fun on hard acceleration with an eCVT.