Herbie

Mine was no different to the factory exhaust noise but I believe that you can ask for it to be made noisier if that's your thing 🙂

Why would you go to Lexus for an exhaust? Simply go to one of the custom places and get a stainless steel one made up and I'll guarantee it'll be half the price. I had a Nissan Maxima QX SE+ and none of the usual suspects such as KwikFit, ATS or wherever could get hold of one. I rang Nissan and was told about £800 to £1,000 if I remember right (it was a long time ago). After a fit of laughter I picked myself up off the floor and went to a place where they dropped the old one, measured and copied every bend, radius and length etc., and created a bespoke system that was guaranteed for the life of the car (even transferrable to a new owner if I sold the car) and all for just £470.

It depends if it would affect the rust warranty. I must admit that the rust warranty is not something I know about but I seem to remember reading somewhere that it runs for about 12 years? Other than that I would just take it to any good reputable body shop, preferably one that has been recommended by word of mouth of satisfied and happy customers.

I agree. Shock absorbers should be replaced in pairs but if one is replaced under warranty you don't automatically get the other one too. That damage doesn't look good but I'm sure they won't replace the whole dash for something that small.

The amount of help available in these forums is incredible and never ceases to amaze me 🙂 Thanks Paul, I'll bear that in mind.

Hi David and welcome to the club. I'm afraid that I can't help but hopefully someone else will come to the rescue soon.

Hi Kuba, welcome to the club

At the moment it's absolute rubbish. Half of the things don't work, navigation using Waze or Sygic is very hit and miss and often freezes up and controlling the joystick is utterly impossible - just need to breathe on it and it zooms all over the place. I believe they released a firmware update to fix that particular problem but for some people it bricked the whole unit so I've not been brave enough to try it on mine yet. HOWEVER..... I really get the feeling that it's SO close to being a great unit if only there were proper instructions with it. I haven't got a clue what half of the settings do or what they're supposed to be set at. For instance, no one seems to know what the "Scrap" means in this photo: I've tried adjusting them and nothing seems to happen but is that because I've not connected, or incorrectly connected, a wire somewhere? Or is it a sort of sub-setting that only comes into play when something else is selected? No one knows. The units are made in China so the language barrier doesn't help when asking for support. The other thing of course is that if you have an Apple phone and you're using Carplay, then an Apple phone is an Apple phone and no one makes them except for Apple. If, like me, you have an Android phone and you're trying to use Android Auto, there are dozens of manufacturers. Both my wife and I use Xiaomi phones, so is it some incompatibility with that? Would it work better with, say, a Samsung or a Motorola? There's just too many variables at the moment and I still have a LOT of experimentation and testing to do, but as I said above, I do get the feeling that it could be great once it's set up correctly. When will that be? Who knows.

If you've ever logged into icloud.com on your PC and saved your login details, both AppleID and password will be in the passwords section of your browser. I hate Apple with a passion. They do make technically very good machines but I cannot abide their restrictive practices and being tied into their own ecosystem.

Glad you got it sorted but sounds like a right faff.

I think you may find that if you keep feeding discs into the slot, it will take six of them.

If it was me, I would have no problem using aftermarket parts as long as they come from a reputable source. The most important part of the whole job is to make sure the correct oil (ND11) goes in the system when it's recharged and not PAG oil.

As Luigi says, there's a very good chance that it's the 12V battery on its way to battery heaven. These cars are so full of electronics that it can cause all sorts of weird and wonderful symptoms if the 12V battery is dying. I would suggest you go somewhere to have the battery load tested. The chart below will give you some indication if you just check it against the battery with a multimeter but if you then load it, that voltage could drop like a stone if a cell's gone bad. If you then check with the car in READY mode it should read about 14.5V if the charging circuits are working alright. If all that proves to be OK, then as Colin says, you need to get the OBD2 codes or it's all just guesswork. EDIT - forgot to upload the voltage chart

Yes, Brian Herridge is the guy at Orchard Engineering. Their website isn't good but the Facebook profile is here https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057789844379

Go back to the dealer and get them to sort it out. However, also take note that this particular indicator light does not have a *1 notation next to it, indicating that it will not come on for self-check purposes when the power button is pressed, but only illuminates when it really is reporting a low fuel condition. Of course, it's best to never let it come on anyway - I never let mine drop below a 1/4 tank. Taken from the 2020 CT Owners Manual (latest one available)

I fitted something that looks very similar but was £300 cheaper and I have to admit that it's rubbish. Is that down to the fact that it was £300 cheaper? Would the one you're looking at be any better? Or are they all rubbish and I've just lost less money than you would do? I honestly don't know but have a look at this topic I created a while back:

Glad to see that it's up and running on LPG John. If that website ever goes down, there's also https://www.filllpg.co.uk/ and you can get it as an app here https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.onthefencedevelopment.fill_lpg

I don't know about the GS specifically but there are many RXs, Toyota Prius's and so on with over 200,000 miles on the clock and still using the same battery. You can have a Hybrid Health Check done every year (currently £59 as a stand-alone service) and as long as the battery passes the tests, Lexus will warranty it for another 12 months, when you can do it again. You can carry this on until the car is 15 years old. In other words, the hybrid batteries are very reliable.

Stick with the almost new one and get them to upgrade it to Apple Carplay/Android Auto, which, I believe, is only available for the 2020 and newer RX (certainly can't get it in my 2018 RX). You can then use voice commands for almost anything such as choosing and playing music, using the phone and, of course, you can use any map/nav that you want to, such as Google Maps, Waze, Sygic or whatever.

You can't do better than a laptop with Techstream, which is the same diagnostic software used in Lexus dealerships. You would also need a miniVCI cable to connect the laptop to the car and one like this, for instance, comes with a pirated copy of Techstream. Of course, we can't be seen to condone the use of pirate software so the correct way would be to download it from here and then pay for a block of time to use it (€5 for a day). Either way, you would still need that miniVCI cable whatever you choose to do. If you don't want to go down that route, I would imagine that almost any code reader would do.

Any OBD2 codes? Without those it's just complete guesswork.

Completely and utterly wrong. Three or four months ago we bought a 2018 RX from Lexus Teeside that came with 12 months full warranty. At the same time I also started paying monthly for two years extended warranty which will become operational in March next year when this one expires, so all in all I'll be covered until March 2024. I have not asked for a refund and I am not cancelling my extended warranty cover because it is much better and covers more things/eventualities than the new Lexus Relax warranty. I also have it in writing that I will not be forced into relinquishing my existing extended warranty and moved onto Relax unless I want to do that, which of course, I won't. Of course, if you want your money back and you want to move onto Relax then you can do so, but it is a far inferior product. For instance, the 'normal' warranty that we've all been used to for years would cover the car until 10 years old or 140,000 miles, so Relax is depriving us of 40,000 miles. Members of these forums have had multimedia head units, headlamp units and shock absorbers (costing £3,000, £1,000 and £? respectively) replaced under 'normal' warranty but none of these are covered under Relax. Plus, no breakdown cover and no MOT under Relax either.

It's a beautiful country with beautiful, friendly and helpful people and it's cheap, although Covid may have altered that last a little bit (quick example, last time we went we got 5.5 Zloty to the Pound and beer was around 3 to 4 Zloty a pint). We've toured all around the country and there are many superb places, Wroclaw, Krakow, Gdansk and Zakopane to name just four.

UK this year but as soon as it's viable we'll be taking our Lexi to Poland/Czechia/Slovakia/Latvia/Lithuania/Hungary and so on as we have done for most of the last 20-odd years.

I'm afraid I don't now the answer but please, hurry up and just buy a car 😄