Herbie

I'm sorry for the problems you had but come on, it could have all been avoided by reading the manual, especially if you've never had a hybrid before because they're very different to a conventional car. Even though I've been driving for 49 years and am fully conversant with the workings of a conventional car, I read the manual from cover to cover during the week the dealer was prepping the car for me to pick up and it was well worth it. Owners must take some responsibility (and I acknowledge that you said it was your fault) when moving to a hybrid or it could be both embarassing and expensive.

First of all, what is ASC? Secondly, how often do you use the cars and for how long? The 12V batteries are only small and have low capacity so they need to be used regularly and for decent runs - a round trip of 10 minutes to the local paper shop isn't going to cut it. If you aren't using them often enough or for long enough, the best solution is to keep each car on a trickle charger when they're not actively being used. All cars have a current draw when they're 'asleep'. This is called the 'quiescent current' and it keeps alive things like the alarm, the clock, radio presets, seat memory and so on, and it should be somewhere in the region of about 50mA to 70mA. The capacity of the battery is measured by the Ah (AmpHour) rating. I don't know what yours are but we'll assume 50Ah, which means it can supply 50A for one hour; 25A for two hours; 12.5A for four hours and so on. If the quiescent current draw is 50mA (0.05A) then 50Ah divided by 0.05A = 1,000 hours (41.66 days or 5.95 weeks) to go from fully charged to fully discharged if the car is left standing (assuming a brand new and fully charged battery). This is a theoretical maximum and you'll never see it in reality. Also, the battery will not be able to start the car long before it becomes fully discharged, so the practical useful time you get will be considerably less than the 5.95 weeks you see above. If there's a fault somewhere and the battery drains due to that, this is called a 'parasitic current draw' and it obviously needs to be fixed. Below is the best way I've ever seen for determining parasitic draw and tracing the fault:

Having a dashcam fitted, either by DIY if you're capable or professionally if not, will not invalidate any warranty.

Lexus Preston are doing mine next week, hopefully.

The trouble with USB flash drives is that they were never intended as permanent storage and they often fail without any warning or indication that it's happening, and they very rarely fail to a 'safe' condition where files can be recovered. Because of this it's more likely to be the drive at fault rather than anything to do with the car itself, so as Pete above suggests, I'd be trying a new drive first.

Peter has beaten me to it because, being retired, there's only one 6:25 in my day and it isn't that one Unfortunately no, there's no way other than getting it to a dealer or other hybrid specialist. The traction battery stands at somewhere in the region of 300V so this isn't something you can DIY or even get the AA/RAC/Green Flag out to.

I'm no expert on the traction battery but I reckon that is at fault in some way. First of all there is too much variation between battery blocks with the lowest being 10.28V and the highest 14.83V. I think the traction battery may need charging, which means taking it (flat-bed recovery truck maybe?) to either your local Lexus dealer or an independent hybrid specialist for them to sort out.

Have a look here.

Have a look at Grom here Or Lexion here

Any particular reason? The aircon is a sealed system and as long as there are no problems it should never need regassing. I've had cars for 15, even 20 years, and the aircon has been as cold as the day I bought it, without ever regassing. You should use the AC all year round so that the seals stay supple and don't dry out and crack. I don't know about the CT but my RX has Climate Control rather than just plain old AC. You set the cabin temperature to whatever you want and the car will then mix hot/cold/conditioned air to keep it there. If you really want to regas the system, make sure that you impress upon the company doing the work that you need ND11 oil rather than the PAG oil that conventional cars use. The compressor is driven by (if I remember correctly) a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor and the motor windings sit in the oil for cooling purposes. PAG oil is conductive and it will break down the winding insulation and cause a leakage of electricity to earth, which for us, means the car body and a very real possibility of electrocution if the safety systems aren't working properly. ND11 oil, of course, doesn't conduct electricity.

Given that CarPlay is just a way to get your phone screen to show on the car infotainment screen, most problems can be found to be the fault of the phone not playing nicely.

Not on a CT but it's very easy on a 2018 RX. Lens cover off > old incandescent lamp out > new LED in > lens cover back on.

I honestly don't know but I would leave it for at least an hour, maybe even two, before starting tests. It may not need that much but no harm in waiting, maybe have a coffee and read the paper.

Yep, that does seem a bit high; I would expect about 50 to 70mA at most. Don't start pulling fuses as that can wake up other ECUs and give false info. This is the best way I've ever come across for finding parasitic draws:

Why don't you name and shame the bad ones to save other members from getting the same disappointing experience? For instance, I've had to use Lexus Carlisle twice in the past but would never do so again.

Lexus Teeside is where I bought the car and Lexus Preston is my local dealership. Both are absolutely superb and I would happily give a score of 11/10 to either one.

That's just plain wrong. It should be almost immediate.

I'd say you need to scour the scrappies and eBay before selling that kidney!

Try looking here: https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals

That is indeed for RX4 but I'm sure the principle is the same.

Why not just try this - it'll stop all that nonsense above? Just pick a figure (I chose 1/4 full) and simply never let it go below that. As soon as the petrol gauge begins it's descent from 1/2 towards 1/4 I'm aware that I need to put fuel in, irrespective of what the computer/gauge/light is telling me.

Oh yes, they're brilliant little gadgets and I've had one for years. Only needed to use it once on my own car but it's rescued at least half a dozen strangers when they needed it

Welcome Captain and congrats on your purchase. It's your first CT but have you owned hybrids before? I only ask because I've never had a CT so I can't offer anything specific, but if it's your first hybrid then there's lots of stuff you need to know. For instance, there's no starter motor or alternator and anything that would normally be driven by a belt from the engine (power steering pump and aircon compressor for instance) are all driven by electric motors instead. A hybrid can receive a jump start from a conventional car but you should never use a hybrid to jump start a conventional car. There's lots of other stuff too but it would be pointless to carry on if you already know these things, so let us know if this sort of thing is useful to you and if it is, myself and others will be happy to help.

Here's the first part and I'll keep looking for the hybrid lockout info:

It was a long time ago so it may be a while but if I can find it again I'll happily post it here for you.