Herbie

No, sadly not. You would need Android Auto or Apple Carplay for that and only cars from 2020 onwards can have that unless you go for a third-party device like a Grom V-line or like the one I fitted in my 2018 RX (details in the topic below). You can, of course, use Waze on the phone but not on the main screen without the above.

There's your problem Steve - you're looking in the wrong place because those shelves are open with no end caps. If you put any gas on one of those shelves it would just run off the end and you'd need a big bucket to catch it, and the same with electricity too. There's a big Health & Safety issue here though. You'd have to cap off the gas shelf at one end and the tizzy shelf at the other because it would be highly dangerous to collect both the gas and the Volts in the same bucket due to the risk of explosion!

Never seen or had the problem but yes, the system works in such a way that you set the CC speed and it keeps that speed whether going up or down or on the flat. That's how every CC system I've ever had works. Even the radar CC will slow down if the car in front slows down and then speed up again when it speeds up. You need to go back to the dealer and have it out with them.

I don't see why not. There's nothing 'Lexus-specific' about a radio aerial. As long as it physically fits in the hole and has a coax lead, Robert is your mother's brother.

Rear valance? Rear underrun?

@VFR Brian, since we swapped our Gen3 RX for a Gen4 I'd forgotten all about this. You may find it useful, you may not, but I just thought I'd put it out there anyway as it may help someone:

Try having a look here https://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus

The 12V battery is in the boot under the floor, next to the spare wheel.

Looks very nice Katherine, I'm sure you'll be very happy with her

I agree with Lexus - for now - but a photo or two may help us make a better informed decision. The calipers are thick chunks of metal and any rust will just be surface/cosmetic; it's not like they could rust through. Plus, nothing is actually wrong at this moment in time. A rusty caliper may lead to rusty/corroded brake pipes that may lead to MOT failure, but none of that is happening yet. If or when it does, that's the time to claim on the warranty.

It is possible Brian but as to whether that's the cause of your problems or not, I don't know. Being as you're going to Halfords in the morning anyway, it may be worth asking them to do a load test on it and see what the result is.

This is in fact, true. A conventional car has a starter motor that draws upwards of 300A to crank the engine. If the battery is low then you'll know about it because the cranking will become slow and labourious. A hybrid doesn't have a starter motor and the engine doesn't crank in the normal sense. The 12V battery boots the computers and gets the car into READY mode, at which point you could drive off on battery power alone. When the hybrid system wants the petrol engine to run it energises MG1 and uses that to spin the engine up to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it. It takes about 20A to get the car into READY mode instead of the 300A or more to crank the engine of a conventional car, and with no starter motor you never get the slow and labourious cranking that would usually indicate a low battery.

I don't know about "authorities" nor do I care. I believe in the science and the scientists who did all the R & D.

My 'official' name is John but my nickname of Herbie was coined when I was about 9 years old and has stuck like glue all through my life, so much so that even my own parents used to call me Herbie. In fact, if anyone does use John I often don't realise they're talking to me, but either will do Badly aligned wheels/tyres can cause premature wear and other things that could result in the car not being as stable on the road as it should be, hence the VSC warning was activated.

VSC - Vehicle Stability Control (which your handbook or Google would have told you )

The rule became necessary due to people putting any bulbs in any lamp units and causing dazzle to other drivers. It's not as simple as stuffing anything in there that will light up. Lamps, lamp units and lenses are a very complicated science. All those lines you see on a halogen lamp unit glass are not there just for decoration, it takes into account reflection, refraction, defraction, beam pattern and other stuff. Millions of pounds have been spent in R & D to create an end product that works as it was scientifically designed to and then somebody decides, "Nah, I want to put these in so I will" without thought or consideration as to what would happen. The proliferation of badly-matched lights and the dazzle caused by them were the driving force for this MOT regulation to be created.

Yes, this is the correct link for if you want to do it the 'proper' way but you still need to buy the interface cable. A cable such as this one randomly chosen from many available on eBay will come with a CD that contains a pirate copy of Techstream and also the cable drivers. I'm not condoning the use of pirate software, that's a matter for your own conscience, but whichever way you do it you'll need that interface cable so that your laptop can talk to the car and vice versa.

I'd say yes to both. Normally (or at least all the one's I've seen) are vertically stuck to the left of the screen.

I would be extremely, super-surprised if that were true. Who told you that? Most problems with Techstream for us private individuals are not with Techstream itself but with the miniVCI cable and its drivers.

Hello Goke and welcome to the club. How long have you had the car? I've got a 2018 Luxury and I love it, best car I've ever had.

https://mag.lexus.co.uk/lexus-hybrid-health-check-2/

And yet the video I posted clearly shows that anyone can do it (as long as they have Techstream and the knowledge, of course).

Hmm... sort of. The actual reason is that if the fitting is designed for halogen then it should have a halogen bulb in it; if it's designed for LED then it should have LED in there and so on. The 'gotcha' is "Light source and lamp not compatible". From the MOT Inspection Manual:

I completely agree and also I've always thought that the best job is done by the specialist in the subject, i.e. mechanic for mechanical work, aircon specialist for aircon work, auto electrician for auto electrical work and so on.

If you're not very good with technical stuff this may be too much for you but it's the best video I've seen on how to tackle this problem: EDIT - Just looking in your area and one or two companies come up: D & R Starters Unit 3 Astra Industrial Estate, Cable St, Wolverhampton WV2 2RJ 01902 871600 They score 5/5 stars from 65 Google Reviews Another one is http://www.vehicleelectricalservices.co.uk/services.html They also score 5/5 but only one review.