Herbie

The traction battery energises MG1 (Motor/Generator 1) and uses that to spin the ICE up to 1,000rpm before supplying fuel and a spark to ignite it. First of all is the fact that it's a design fault that should never have got past the drawing board stage - but it did. Lexus/Toyota decided to use low electrical capacity 12V batteries, as indicated by the Ah (Amp-Hour) rating on the label. I haven't got an LBX so I don't know what capacity the battery is, but for the sake of this example let's just say 40Ah. This means that it can supply 40A for one hour, or 20A for two hours, or 10A for four hours etc. Even during the middle of the night when the car is 'asleep' there is still power being drawn from the battery to supply the intruder alarm, the radio presets, seat memory, the clock and so on. This is referred to as the 'quiescent' current draw and most modern cars seem to be in the 50 to 70mA (milliamps or 0.05 to 0.07A) range; anything more could possibly indicate a fault and is then known as a 'parasitic' current draw. So, if we assume a brand new and fully charged battery we can then say 40Ah divided by 0.05A = 800 hours (which is 33.3 days or 4.76 weeks) to go from fully charged to fully discharged if the car isn't touched. However, this is a theoretical maximum and various things will mean that you never see this in reality. Also, don't forget that the battery will be too low to start the car long before it becomes fully discharged, so the 33.3 days will probably drop into the twenty-something range of 'useable' days. Plus, each time it does go flat it damages the plates and loses a little bit more capacity. You can now perhaps see why it's so important to use the car regularly or to trickle charge it. As I've said before, hybrids do not suit everybody and if your driving patterns mean either short runs and/or long periods of inactivity then a conventional ICE car may be more suitable for you (by which I mean in general, not you personally).

Your insurance company will know that the car has an intruder alarm but a battery isolator will negate that and may give them cause to reduce or even stop a claim, as well as losing window settings, radio presets and so on. Far better to leave the battery on a trickle charger if that's possible.

Fair enough but just be aware that the one you linked to is not the one you want. You need a miniVCI cable for Lexus/Toyota.

This is the sort of cable you need to connect the laptop to the car. It comes bundled with a pirated copy of Techstream and whether you use that or not is down to your own conscience and principles. The correct way of doing it would be to download a legit copy of Techstream from Lexus and then pay for a block of time to use it, but whichever way you go, you'll need that cable anyway. Get legit Techstream and licence key here https://www.lexus-tech.eu/DiagnosticTools/Setup

Sorry my friend but you still don't seem to understand. The car is built and leaves the factory with a brand new battery and that is the only time in its entire life that it has a brand new one. If the car needs a replacement, the dealer will order it but it will be a refurb that arrives, not brand new. The dealers don't have a "secret" item code to get a brand new one - there is one item code in the EPC and that points to a refurb unit. Only the factory has access to brand new ones and they are for cars in production, not to be sent out as replacements.

Hmm....similar, but not the same. Dealerships are franchises and as such they'll each have their own foibles, but the Electronic Parts Catalogue is in use at all dealerships from Land's End to John O'Groats and all points inbetween. There just is no item code entry for a brand new battery - without an item code it just can't be ordered. Whether a battery is brand new or refurbed it will still need careful handling and transportation, which is where the fancy box comes in. It doesn't alter the fact that there's no item code for a brand new battery in the EPC.

Mine is a TackLife T8. Never needed to use it on my own car but it's saved a few strangers when they've needed it. You'll see that the display says it still has 92% charge and the last time I charged it up was nine months ago.

You had a very lucky escape there. I wouldn't let Halfords fill my washer bottle, never mind mess about with the wiring! Any car audio/infotainment installers, any auto-electrician, or even DIY if you feel up to it - any would be preferable to Halfords. I installed my Viofo A229 Pro dual cam setup in my 2018 RX myself and it was easy enough. The hardest part of the whole job was fishing the rear cable through the rubber conduit to get from the main body and into the tailgate.

One of the members on here had an IS300h that he used as a taxi. It needed a new traction battery and, being a handy lad, he did all the work himself. Imagine his surprise when he went to order the brand new traction battery from Lexus, only to be told that there is no such beast as a "new" one! The only item code in the whole Electronic Parts Catalogue pointed to a refurb unit and there is literally no item code in the EPC to obtain a brand new unit. If you want confirmation of that just use the board search facility. He did a brilliant write-up of the whole process including the apparent inability to order a new battery pack.

So can you now tell us, please, which make and model of unit it was so that others can perhaps avoid such a situation? I have a Grom Vline 2 that I'm generally happy with, although it does have a quirk or two, but nothing insurmountable. Other units with good reputations are RoadTop, BeatSonic, Teyes and Lexion.

Yes, seriously. Hybrids are not suitable for everyone's driving habits and some people would be better sticking with conventional ICE cars. It never ceases to amaze me just how many people do not RTFM and are completely ignorant of the differences between ICE and hybrids and have no idea how hybrids work.

I would hazard a guess at a blown or faulty rectifier. The light is permanently on because it's now getting a backfeed from somewhere, which is something the rectifier should prevent.

Driver's seat - check continuity of the fuse with a multimeter rather than just visually, as they can sometimes look alright when they aren't. If fuse OK then check for voltage at the seat heater connector. If OK check resistance of heater element(s). If no voltage at the heater connector, trace the wiring back towards the fuse, looking for any breaks and/or the point where you register voltage on the meter. CD/Radio etc - sorry, no idea about this one.

The button is self-explanatory - Parking sensors. "P" for parking Lines that indicate a wave - ultrasonic or radar An object that you'll hit if you don't heed the warning.

What was the old Ah rating on the battery and what is it now after the modification?

They are not "teething issues". The 12V battery problem is not a 'fixable' thing and no one can 'cure' it. It is a design problem that should never have made it off the drawing board - but it did. These batteries only have a low capacity (measured as shown by the Ah rating). and the only way to get round the problem is to use a battery of a higher Ah rating. Unfortunately a higher Ah means a bigger physical size that will not fit in the battery box, so you just have to live with it.

That is absolutely far too little. At the very least you need a good hour run. What you have to appreciate is that this is not a 'fixable' fault and there's nothing anyone can do to rectify it. It's a design fault that should never have been approved during the drawing board stage and it's not a question of using a "better quality" battery. The only option is to use a battery with a higher AmpHour capacity but unfortunately that comes with a bigger physical size that doesn't fit in the battery box.

I'm sorry for the problems you had but come on, it could have all been avoided by reading the manual, especially if you've never had a hybrid before because they're very different to a conventional car. Even though I've been driving for 49 years and am fully conversant with the workings of a conventional car, I read the manual from cover to cover during the week the dealer was prepping the car for me to pick up and it was well worth it. Owners must take some responsibility (and I acknowledge that you said it was your fault) when moving to a hybrid or it could be both embarassing and expensive.

First of all, what is ASC? Secondly, how often do you use the cars and for how long? The 12V batteries are only small and have low capacity so they need to be used regularly and for decent runs - a round trip of 10 minutes to the local paper shop isn't going to cut it. If you aren't using them often enough or for long enough, the best solution is to keep each car on a trickle charger when they're not actively being used. All cars have a current draw when they're 'asleep'. This is called the 'quiescent current' and it keeps alive things like the alarm, the clock, radio presets, seat memory and so on, and it should be somewhere in the region of about 50mA to 70mA. The capacity of the battery is measured by the Ah (AmpHour) rating. I don't know what yours are but we'll assume 50Ah, which means it can supply 50A for one hour; 25A for two hours; 12.5A for four hours and so on. If the quiescent current draw is 50mA (0.05A) then 50Ah divided by 0.05A = 1,000 hours (41.66 days or 5.95 weeks) to go from fully charged to fully discharged if the car is left standing (assuming a brand new and fully charged battery). This is a theoretical maximum and you'll never see it in reality. Also, the battery will not be able to start the car long before it becomes fully discharged, so the practical useful time you get will be considerably less than the 5.95 weeks you see above. If there's a fault somewhere and the battery drains due to that, this is called a 'parasitic current draw' and it obviously needs to be fixed. Below is the best way I've ever seen for determining parasitic draw and tracing the fault:

Having a dashcam fitted, either by DIY if you're capable or professionally if not, will not invalidate any warranty.

Lexus Preston are doing mine next week, hopefully.

The trouble with USB flash drives is that they were never intended as permanent storage and they often fail without any warning or indication that it's happening, and they very rarely fail to a 'safe' condition where files can be recovered. Because of this it's more likely to be the drive at fault rather than anything to do with the car itself, so as Pete above suggests, I'd be trying a new drive first.

Peter has beaten me to it because, being retired, there's only one 6:25 in my day and it isn't that one Unfortunately no, there's no way other than getting it to a dealer or other hybrid specialist. The traction battery stands at somewhere in the region of 300V so this isn't something you can DIY or even get the AA/RAC/Green Flag out to.

I'm no expert on the traction battery but I reckon that is at fault in some way. First of all there is too much variation between battery blocks with the lowest being 10.28V and the highest 14.83V. I think the traction battery may need charging, which means taking it (flat-bed recovery truck maybe?) to either your local Lexus dealer or an independent hybrid specialist for them to sort out.

Have a look here.