Herbie

Yes. Any garage should be able to do it or even a car accessory shop (as long as they sell batteries) or even Halfords. It should only take a few minutes so there probably won't even be a charge for it. You can test with your multimeter against the chart below but it'll only show 'standing' voltage and not the actual capacity. If you then test again with the car in READY mode you should see about 14.5V if the charging system is working alright.

Not really much good for this particular situation. The multimeter could show 12V but when a load is applied that voltage could drop like a stone, which is why it really needs to be load tested.

I'll second that @zeczec As I said above, when it begins to fail then all manner of weird and wonderful things can happen, multiple warnings and fault codes amongst them. I notice that one of the OBD codes displayed is a good example of needing the sub-codes too, as you'll see in this screendump:

Really no point in trying to compare because there are so many variables it's just impossible. As Andrew says above. What I would add though, is to take out a service plan. There are no discounts but it does mean that you can lock in today's price and pay monthly for it at no extra cost. I've averaged about 33-34mpg over the last 10 months of mixed driving.

You need to have the OBD codes read and preferably with Techstream because I don't think generic readers show the sub-codes. The codes point to areas where the fault may lie and the sub-codes help to narrow it down. For example, P0AA6 covers six different areas, so the sub-codes are very important. P0AA6-123 points to one thing, P0AA6-124 points to something different, P0AA6-125 is something different again and so on. Please note that these aren't actual sub-codes, just an illustration. So, to give any meaningful or useful answer, we really need those codes - anything else is just guesswork. Having said that, multiple warnings can just be an indication that the 12V battery is beginning to fail. All sorts of weird and wonderful things can occur when that happens, so it may be worth having your battery load tested before getting any deeper.

I think that's the radar for the cruise control, not a camera.

That has obviously fallen out of the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down

What photo?

I think your (decent) choices amount to the following: Grom Vline 2 (which I have and I'm very pleased with it - have a look here for a short demo and review that I did) https://www.lsailt.com/ Lexion

We haven't got any so when said grandchild has done yours, would you send them up north please Malc?

I have a Viofo A129 Duo and it's superb. Easy to install, great quality video both day and night, and small and unobtrusive enough to leave permanently in place without worrying that someone will see it and break in to nick it. Viofo cameras on Amazon One of the cameras in the list above is currently on offer for £131.48 here

That's not a very good argument. If steel wheels are replaced by alloy wheels they are replacing something that was already fitted and they work in exactly the same way. However, that is classed as a 'proper' modification because it makes the car more desirable to the criminal due to the increased cost of alloys and so increases the risk of it (or at least the wheels) being nicked.

Well I'll go t' foot of our stairs as me dear departed granny used to say - that'll teach me not to just copy and paste without checking first

I hope this video can be seen by the general public but I saw it on Facebook so you may need a Facebook account to view it, I don't know: https://www.facebook.com/william.harmsworth.39/videos/476306763942079 If it doesn't work, below is a screenshot of a cyclist enjoying their new-found freedom

Never used this company but within the last hour, someone in the LS400 forum posted a link to this site and wondering if they're any good. As he said, it's almost worth getting some to try even if they only last a year. https://xenons4u.co.uk/xenon-products/hid-xenon-bulbs/d4s-bulbs.html

DAB antenna

If you clean up the commutator and undercut the insulation between segments (used to be mica but I don't know if it still is or not), give it a general clean-up and replace the brushes, that'll be as good as new.

You need something like this.

Given that the camera (presumably?) comes with an OBD port connector then it must be OK, yes. However, to be honest it's not the way I would do it. I'd prefer to use a hardwire kit and connect it to the fuse box by using a fuse tap (sometimes called a piggyback fuse or an add-a-fuse). What make and model of camera is it?

Yes it does. Just Google for "OBD2 pinout" (without the quotes) and you'll find a whole lot of info about which pins to use.

Bart is correct. That device is purely for making AA wireless and not to actually provide AA to a car that doesn't have it.

I suppose it's basically like the petrol figures given for internal combustion engines. No car in the real world has ever achieved the official figures given in the sales blurb and it would appear to be the same for electric vehicles now. As for actual, real-world range, there's just so many things that could affect it that I would imagine you could do the same journey every day and never get the same range.

There's definitely a reset procedure for the tailgate but I'm afraid I can't remember what it is at the moment. With regards to getting the tailgate open, once you have access into the car get yourself into the boot and there's a small panel on the tailgate itself that you can pry out and it gives you access to a mechanical release. In the context of this particular problem it doesn't matter whether you disconnect the +ve or -ve terminal. However, as a matter of course and for safety reasons, you should always remove the -ve terminal rather than or before the +ve one. If your spanner slips while you're working on the +ve terminal you could cause a short circuit which will result in many sparks.

Of course we do. We are the commodity that companies are selling, not whatever product they make. Without all the data mining and info about us that they already have and continue to get, the true cost of Internet access would be hundreds of pounds per month, but we willingly trade our data for £20-£30 per month instead.

If you're sat there with your tinfoil hat on you may as well take it off John, you're already in the system and big companies already know as much about you as you do yourself. The only way to escape is if your parents don't register your birth, you don't go to school and so on. It's the price we pay for being born when we were and living in the 21st Century.