Herbie

Why would you even consider taking such an old car to the dealers for work anyway?

So really you're just guessing that it's the camera that's drawing the power? Your meter in that photo shows a draw of 560mA when it should really be about a tenth of that. My quiescent current draw is no more than 70mA and that includes the dashcam in parking mode. Some fuses feed more than one piece of equipment and more than one circuit. Given your figures I'd say you almost certainly have a fault somewhere and you need to do some proper diagnostic testing to find exactly what and where it is. Alternatively, being as it's a 2020 car and presumably still under warranty, get it back to Lexus for them to sort it.

Quite right, it wasn't, which is why I followed it with a little emoji.

I would imagine it is, unless your headlights are kerosene or gas powered

Most likely not. The MOT is an inspection and the inspectors are not allowed to carry out any fault-finding, diagnostics or indeed any work at all. This is the reason why you sometimes see "Could not inspect as engine drip tray in the way" or "Could not inspect rear seatbelt due to baby seat in the way." Also, given that your car is 9 years old, why pay the extortionate rates at Lexus dealers? Find a good auto-electrician (not a general mechanic) and they'll get it done for half the price of Lexus.

Even if you have the car serviced elsewhere you can still have the Hybrid Health Check done as a stand-alone thing at Lexus for £59 and as long as it passes, they warrant it for 12 months. Even if you don't have the HHC done and it starts to give problems, you can replace individual cells rather than having to buy the whole thing.

Why not take the opportunity to scrap the air system altogether and change over to coils? A full set of four can be bought for not much more than the £750 you're going to spend on one air strut. If you really want to keep the air, I'll send you a PM that may help you.

No, you're paying for all that nice showroom and putting more money in corporate coffers - they charge big just because they can. You always have recourse at any reputable garage. Then with the greatest of respect, you have either not done due diligence or you've just been unlucky. Whatever the business, be it a bakers or an electrician, a mechanic or a builder, word-of-mouth recommendation from friends and family will always bring up good businesses who work hard to keep their good reputations.

That's true John; just hate giving the government that extra money

Just got a reminder from DVLA that car tax is due on 1st March and it's now £480 for a one-off payment for the year!!! If I remember correctly it was about £420 last year and I really didn't like that, but just had to grin and bear it as a consequence of owning a 2018 RX. Roll on 2024 when it's due to drop to 'normal'.

When the car gets to about 7 years old.

The only thing I can think of is that they changed the head unit at some point in the production run, for example, say from Pioneer to Panasonic or something. Remember that they're trying to add a function to something that was never designed to have it and they have a huge amount of variables to contend with, i.e. different phones, keeping OEM switches and controls in a functioning state and so on. I have a 2018 RX and there's absolutely no chance whatsoever of Lexus providing AA/ACP functionality to these cars due to the original multimedia systems fitted at the factory being completely incompatible, which is why I splashed out £510 on a Grom Vline 2, and with which, I have to say, I'm completely happy.

I honestly don't know, but consider this - even if you got a map that was as recent as yesterday, it'll still be running on operating system software that's over 16 years old because map updates are just that, not OS updates. Plus, being DVD-based you can't add in your own POIs, speed cam locations or any of the modern stuff we now take for granted. Why not just use Google Maps, Waze, or Sygic on your smartphone instead? You'll find it much, much better.

Yep, I'd also go for silicone sealant, although luckily, I didn't have to Sorry, only joking but couldn't resist - there but for the grace of God and all that

Once again Linas, I see your point and I do agree. However, one big thing in favour of Grom is that they do have a great support team and generally will pull out all the stops to get it working for you. Grom HQ and the support team are based in Texas, USA, so no language problems either way when trying to explain things and that, for me, really gives Grom major plus points. I agree it's expensive and it may take some fiddling to get it set up the way you want it, but I'm still more than happy with it and well pleased.

Looking at that picture of the power meter it seems that you're measuring total current draw from the battery, or have I got that wrong? What I'm getting at is, are you sure it's the camera that's drawing the power and not something else? Did you do the tests as shown in the video?

Doh!! Yes, what was I thinking Ah well, at least my day can only get better from this low point

I can see your point Linas but it isn't "just phone connectivity." The Grom Vline 2 is basically a stand-alone Android computer/tablet (albeit without a screen) and you don't even need a phone to use it. It can be used offline to play your own locally stored music and use offline maps for navigation etc., but it works much better if it has an Internet connection. To that end you can either buy a USB dongle with a data-only SIM or you can tether your phone (wired or wirelessly) to act as a gateway for the Vline to have Internet. Because it's a stand-alone Android computer/tablet you can download any app from the Google Play Store to it and run it directly from there, with no need for Android Auto or Apple CarPlay (both of which restrict your choice of apps). Alternatives that really are just phone connectivity (but do come with new screens if wanted/needed) are https://www.lexionautomotive.com/ and also https://www.lsailt.com/

True, but then the position of the seats couldn't be altered.

Image quality is great and I like the idea of it seeing more than a standard dashcam does. Having said that, it looks like it would be very visible from outside and even though I'm not a lazy person, I could see that I would very quickly get fed up of taking the thing in and out after each journey to avoid it being nicked.

Known as 'cornering lamps' they are instead of adaptive headlights, I think.

Sorry, my misunderstanding. I thought you'd put up the picture of the ECU for identification purposes but that you actually wanted the switch. In my defence, you didn't specifically say 'ECU' and there are two pictures of the switch, plus, it was nearly midnight and I'd had a few beers I hope you manage to find one - may be worth asking in https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/ Alternatively, I'd give this guy a call http://www.lpgc.co.uk/ He's extremely knowledgeable about the subject and quite often when doing conversions he doesn't stick with a 'kit of parts' from one manufacturer, but rather picks individual components that will work better for the car. For instance, he may use a KME NEVO ECU with Tartarini injectors or whatever. He may be able to suggest a different ECU to go in your system.

Can't help with where to find one but two questions: 1. What's wrong with the ones you've got? 2. Why would you not trust any sources abroad? Tartarini are Italian and the LPG capital of Europe is Poland, and I'm sure you'd be able to source a new one from either of those countries.

Are you sure it's an ASF sensor (if so, what is it?) or did you mean AFS sensor? Assuming you mean the latter, you can get both the sensor itself and/or the mechanical linkage here on eBay. Not sure about the parking sensor but again, maybe you could find something on the Bay of Fleas.

Yes. Any garage should be able to do it or even a car accessory shop (as long as they sell batteries) or even Halfords. It should only take a few minutes so there probably won't even be a charge for it. You can test with your multimeter against the chart below but it'll only show 'standing' voltage and not the actual capacity. If you then test again with the car in READY mode you should see about 14.5V if the charging system is working alright.