Herbie

Excellent Gary, I'm sure you'll love it. I had a 2005 RX300, then a 2013 RX450h Advance and now a 2018 RX450h Luxury. If you need any help or advice, never be afraid to ask and when you pick it up lets see a couple of photos

As far as I know there are no fuses for the USB. I suppose it's possible that there may be an internal one on a circuit board within the multimedia head unit, but nothing in the 'normal' car fuse boxes.

Just sent you a PM Sarit.

I don't know about UX but my 2018 RX has sequential indicators and I love them. They seem to draw the eye much more than standard ones.

It's electrically driven because the petrol engine doesn't run all the time. The hybrid system chooses when to run the engine and when to stop it, so anything normally driven by a belt from the engine (A/C, power steering) has to be electrically controlled instead. Hybrids don't have a starter motor or an alternator either. The aircon compressor is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor and one problem that sometimes crops up is that someone thinks that it's not getting as cold as it used to be and either buys a can of refrigerant to do a DIY top-up, or takes it somewhere where they don't know what they're doing and things go wrong. All aircon compressors/systems need lubricating oil in with the refrigerant gas, but whereas a conventional car uses PAG oil, a hybrid needs ND11 oil. The reason for this is that the motor windings sit in the oil for cooling purposes, so the oil has to be a high dielectric type that doesn't conduct electricity (ND11); 'standard' PAG oil does conduct electricity. It's been shown that as little as 1% contamination with PAG oil in the system can lead to insulation breakdown of the motor windings and cause short circuits, which is when you would get the 'Check Hybrid System' warnings. It may start off as an intermittent fault but as it gets worse (which it will), eventually the hybrid system will shut down to prevent short circuit to 'earth', i.e., the car body, to avoid electrocution. Of course, there could be other reasons than oil contamination that cause this fault, but that's one reason. If the OP has the OBD codes read, it's very likely that it'll come up with P0AA6. This code covers 5 or 6 things so the sub-code helps to narrow it down, as you'll see below. In this case, as the OP has already been told it's the A/C compressor, I'd expect code P0AA6-611:

What I meant was, the owners manual will list the tyre specs, along with a label in the car somewhere (driver's door jamb?) so as long as you stick to what it says there then that's as much as you need to know. Alternatively, you could go higher if you wanted but definitely not lower.

It's not so much the audio aspect (because they still use the same amplifier and speakers) but the other stuff that's of interest. The navigation and mapping systems have always been the Achilles Heel of Lexus. They are slow and clunky, counter-intuitive, have problems using postcodes and so on. Some people can put up with it but I think the vast majority would like something better, which is where Android Auto (AA) and Apple CarPlay (ACP) come in. Some people dislike the inbuilt navigation and mapping so much that they prefer to use something like Waze, Google Maps or Sygic on their phones instead. These things are a whole order of magnitude better than the OEM Lexus mapping and navi system, but one drawback is that (a) phone screens are small, (b) the phone has to be mounted to the windscreen or dash, and (c) it means a wire dangling around to power it. Wouldn't it be great if you could project or mirror the phone screen onto the car's bigger and better multimedia screen? Of course it would. And wouldn't it be even better if all the Lexus OEM switches and buttons (like being able to adjust radio volume from the steering wheel) would also control this interface and retain all the functionality of the original usage? Of course it would. Some devices are just 'interfaces' between the phone and the car screen. Others, like the Grom Vline I've got are a completely stand-alone Android computer and can work without AA/ACP. Assuming you have a smartphone, Android tablet or iPad, think of all the apps that you have on there. Being a bit over-simplistic, AA and ACP are basically apps, that allow other apps to run within them and also drive the phone image onto the OEM car screen. Once you have AA/ACP set up, you can then install the nav/maps I mentioned above, plus other apps such as Amazon Music, Spotify or whatever. I don't use AA/ACP at all, but download and run all my apps directly from the Grom unit. You can even run live TV apps like SkyGo, My5, ITVHub, even WorldTV and get TV from around the globe. You can have YouTube, Netflix, Vimeo and lots of others. In fact, you can download and run any app from the Google Play Store to the Grom. Of course, you need to be sensible and not have any video playing onscreen while the car is in motion and AA/ACP even go so far as to block things like that when the car is moving, but it's great to have if you're parked up somewhere waiting for someone to finish shopping or whatever. As mentioned above, a lot of people get this for the navigation alone. The maps are free and are updated very regularly, plus the facilities available within the maps, such as users being able to update maps with incidents in real-time and so on, make it very worthwhile.

I don't know the answer because I've never known anybody quote weight as a factor in buying tyres, only the size of said tyre. Don't worry about it.

I don't know what you were hearing but there certainly should not be any noise from the hybrid system. Neither my previous RX (2013) nor my current one (2018) have ever made any sort of noise from the hybrid system. I think I'd be giving it back for a full refund or a swap for a different RX.

The Relax warranty specifically excludes the multimedia head unit, which is something I find both annoying and upsetting when compared with the 'proper' extended warranty that used to be available.

That's probably on radar cruise. Switch the radar off and you'll get your 1mph increments back.

Am I the only one who finds this worrying? It looks like the fuse has gone and the AA guy bypassed it?? Fuses are meant to be the weakest link in the chain and their purpose is to blow to protect anything downstream of said fuse. Bypassing it means that that protection is not there anymore.

Just sent you a PM Chris.

Lexus Teesside gave me half a tank.

I don't know if anyone on here has done it but there are a few up and down the country.

Absolute rubbish 12VDC is 12VDC is 12VDC. 12VDC in the UK, is 12VDC in the USA, 12VDC in Germany, 12VDC in Australia and so on. All you're doing is supplementing one poor 12VDC source by piggybacking a good 12VDC source onto it. Even if the source is a bit 'dirty' the existing battery will act as a huge smoothing capacitor and attenuate any spikes.

Why thank you David, very kind of you sir Sadly, I'm afraid that I can't help this time as it's not something I've ever come across or had to deal with, but I'm sure someone else will know the answer.

Before spending money on a new battery, just try a set of jump leads and give it a different 12V source. If it works, great, it is the battery so you can get a new one knowing that it'll cure the problem. However, I'm not convinced. 11.7 - 11.8V isn't brilliant but (a) it should still work and (b) that could just be a consequence of it standing around for a while and it may have been higher than that when the fault was triggered. Looking at the P0A0D in conjunction with the B15F9, it may possibly be a harness or connector come loose at either the multimedia head unit or the inverter assembly:

The "Check Hybrid System" doesn't mean specifically the hybrid battery. You need to look for the DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and tell us what they are.

You won't get the ICE to run all the time but probably still worth doing the conversion given the price of petrol.

Glad you got it sorted. You'll need at least an hour's run, preferably more if you can, because it will have been really flat.

It doesn't matter - all you're doing is providing or supplementing one 12V source with another 12V source. You won't need the bigger one for your own car but it will come in handy if someone else needs a jump from you (you should never use a hybrid to jump a conventional car). To be honest they both look a bit pricey. Amazon and/or eBay would have equally good ones, such as this one for example perhaps even better, for less money, but if it's urgent then go with the Argos ones. Personally, I've got a Tacklife T8 but I don't think they make those anymore. EDIT: - just re-read the bold text and I wouldn't attempt to charge the car battery. These battery packs are designed to use as emergency jump starters, not as makeshift chargers. You can jump from front or back, doesn't matter.

Like Ken, I thought the 2018 NXs could be done so it's worth double checking. If you definitely can't do it then I recommend a Grom Vline 2. Here's a short write-up and review I did a little while ago after fitting one in my 2018 RX:

The RX300, 330 and 350 use conventional steering. The RX400h and 450h use an electric motor for steering, as do all hybrids. In a hybrid, the petrol engine doesn't run all the time and the hybrid system decides when to run it and when to stop it. Imagine the engine cutting out going round a corner or bend and you lose power steering - this is why hybrids use an electric motor.

Fair enough David, but you did say: