Herbie

Usually somewhere under the floor of the boot. However, if you go to https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals then you should be able to download the one for your car and it'll tell you in there.

The 12V battery doesn't have any charge indicator - the "bars" you're seeing refer to the high voltage traction battery. Sounds very much like the 12V battery has gone to that great scrapyard in the sky, although it may be worth giving it a full 24-hour charge with a proper battery charger to see if that helps. Even if it does, I'd still be looking at replacing the 12V battery sooner rather than later. I don't know the Ah rating of your battery but it won't make much difference in this case. As a rough rule of thumb, it would probably only take between maybe 4 to 5 weeks to go from fully charged to fully discharged if its not used, which means that its been stood in a completely depleted state for a long time and will no doubt be damaged by now.

It's not a hybrid.

Very good chance of that my friend. Heat is very much the nemesis of any computer system, which is one reason that I mentioned the thermal paste earlier - I'll bet next month's pension that it's all dried up and doing nothing.

Below are a couple of dirty ones that I personally didn't have to deal with (just photos from Google) but I have had more than my fair share of dirty ones to deal with during my days as a self-employed computer repair technician. Smokers are the worst ones for me. I've never wanted to even have a single drag of any tobacco product and I absolutely abhor cigarette smoke, finding it acrid and horrible. If it was really bad I would put up the price of the repair. I've even refused to take on the job if it's really, really bad, but assuming I took it home, the first thing for a smoker's machine would be out to the air compressor and a good blast with the gun. P.S. Stephen - I'll almost guarantee that it's been hot enough for the thermal compound between the CPU and its fan heatsink will have gone solid and is no longer doing its job. I'd recommend that you get a tube of something like Thermaltake MX4, remove the old stuff with Isopropyl Alcohol and reseat the heatsink on a blob of fresh compound.

I don't know specifically about the 2011 CT200h but yep, many cars from many manufacturers only have one reversing light and one rear fog light these days. Stupid idea but quite normal for many.

Safer for you maybe, but why do you think the MOT had to be changed to take account of lamp changes in the first place? You aren't the one facing your headlights and you may be pootling along oblivious to the dazzle you're causing to those who are. All those lines and pretty patterns on a halogen headlight housing aren't just there for decoration. Millions of pounds have been spent in research and development by people far better qualified than you and I to make sure that a halogen lamp fits and works correctly in a halogen housing. I'm sorry but I just cannot be doing with people who have the "I want to do it so I will do it and sod everybody else" mentality.

I don't think so. They often get confused when seeing speed limit signs on goods vehicles as well.

Never set your home address in any satnav. If your car is stolen away from home they can take the risk that there's no one in the house and rob that as well as your car.

Good question Paul - no one mentioned the Geofence device or related app so maybe I've not got it. I'll ring Lexus Preston on Monday to clarify. Cheers.

Seems to be down to the battery as I've just found this text: The Battery Powered Retrieve has a 5-year life span from the date of installation. The battery is designed as a one-time use operation, therefore, if your vehicle is ever stolen, the Tracker unit will need to be replaced*

The trackers we get don't have a phone app, that's for the more expensive S5 version:

....that the tracker being fitted in response to the CANbus debacle is a one time only, single use device? I certainly didn't until about an hour ago when I saw it mentioned by Lee (Toyota Owner) in the NX forum - thanks Lee. So, what happens if the car is stolen and recovered due to the tracker doing its job? Do Lexus then provide a new tracker free of charge or would we have to pay for it?

^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is the answer. We never get to use the full capacity of the battery because charging or discharging too far would drastically shorten its life. Think of it as a buffer at both top and bottom. The graphical representation that we see onscreen is only showing us 'our' usable part of it, not the battery as a whole.

As a time-served and fully qualified electrician, that statement fills me with horror! Fuses are designed as the weakest link in the chain and when excessive current flows the fuse is designed to 'blow' in order to protect the wiring and devices downstream. I have no idea what the current carrying capacity of a washer would be but I'll bet it's more than the wiring downstream that it's supposed to be protecting. This means that if there is a fault then the wiring will heat up, the insulation will melt and cause short circuits, more than likely leading to a fire. Do you really want to risk it

Have a look HERE to see what Pete Hayland did with his.

Yes, that looks alright to me. One note of caution is that some screws will screw into a plastic bit and that wouldn't be any good. If it went through the plastic and into the metal underneath that would do the job. As I said earlier, the whole car body is connected to the negative battery post by means of a thick copper cable and woven copper braid earth straps, so any good metal to metal contact is suitable.

The NOCO unit will work fine but it's very expensive and there's absolutely no need whatsoever to spend that much. This page has lots of cheaper ones that will do the job equally well. I have a TackLife T8 that I bought about 4 years ago and it's been superb. I paid about 50 quid for it and although I've only used it on my own car once, it's rescued many others without fault. The last time I charged it up was 9 months ago and it still has 92% charge left. You're overthinking this. The -ve (negative) battery post is wired directly to the car body, so there isn't one specific place to connect to. Red goes to +ve terminal at the front or on the battery post at the back. Black goes to -ve battery post or any unpainted screw, nut, bolt, bracket or other metalwork that is within easy reach. That could be top, bottom, front or back, just as long as it's unpainted, bare metal.

Yes and yes, a USB hub will do the job.

My 2018 RX doesn't have a mechanical lock/key slot in the tailgate, so my battery pack is in the cabin too.

First of all you need to put in at least 10 litres before attempting to start it. If you're unlucky enough to have three failed attempts at starting, the hybrid system could lock out. If that happens you'll need to be recovered on a flat-bed recovery vehicle - not towed - to the nearest Lexus dealership for them to reset it. I'm not sure if a local independent hybrid specialist could do it but it'd be worth asking if you're ever in that situation.

Why would you say that? Of course you can, no problem whatsoever.

I have no idea why that should cause a problem but it doesn't apply here anyway, because hybrids are not 'stop-start' cars. Hybrids are a completely different technology and they don't have starter motors or alternators either. A conventional car starter motor will take up to 300A to crank the engine but our hybrids only need around 20A to boot the computers and make the magic happen. Right at the beginning of the process there are two 12V relays working as a safety interlock. As long as the 12V battery has enough power when the 'Start' button is pressed it will operated those relays, thereby 'giving access' to the hybrid system, which will be up and running when you get the green 'READY' light. The petrol engine may not necessarily fire up straight away but when the hybrid system wants it to run, it'll energise MG1 (Motor/Generator 1) and use that to spin the engine up to 1,000rpm before supplying fuel and a spark to ignite it. The hybrid system will then turn the engine on/off as and when it sees fit. Some interesting stuff about the e-CVT or Power Split Device here.

Quite simply connect the trickle charger, plug it in at the mains, switch it on and forget about it for six months. It doesn't matter whether you connect to the battery in the back or the jump-start point in the fusebox at the front because 12V is 12V and they're directly connected to each other anyway. The negative clamp can either go directly on the negative battery post or to any bare metal such as a bolt, nut, screw, bracket or whatever. As long as it's bare and not painted, it'll do the job. The only reason we're told not to connect directly on the negative battery post is because a battery can emit hydrogen gas so there's a risk of explosion from sparks igniting the gas. Personally I've never seen, witnessed or heard of this happening and neither have any friends in nearly 50 years of driving/hobby spannering. However, you can rest assured that from an electrical point of view, it makes not one jot of difference where you place the jump leads/charger leads as long as you get the polarity correct. As for revving the engine with a foot on the brake, that is indeed a recognised procedure* and you won't damage the auto box because they don't have one. They use an electronically controlled variable transmission or e-CVT. One of the main components of this is what Lexus/Toyota call a 'Power Split Device' which is a constantly meshed planetary gearset. *This is indeed for the traction battery and is a procedure that Lexus technicians do when carrying out the Hybrid Health Check. Also, apps such as 'Hybrid Assistant' and 'Dr. Prius' ask you to do this very thing too.

I've always used HPI.