Herbie

I appreciate the reasons why you don't want to use your phone as a wifi hotspot, but it's worth mentioning an app called MacroDroid. I currently use Sky as my mobile phone provider and any unused data from one month rolls over to use in the next month. I'm not sure if there's any limit on the number of 'rollovers' but I can say that I currently have 60GB of data allowance in my 'data piggybank', which is why I'm using my phone as the wifi hotspot for my Grom Vline. As you'll see from the screenshot below, I created two macros in MacroDroid. The first one detects when my phone connects with the OEM Lexus Bluetooth, which then triggers the phone's wifi hotspot to switch on. The second one detects when I switch the car off and the connection to Lexus Bluetooth drops, which then triggers the wifi hotspot to switch off as well. It works perfectly and MacroDroid is very versatile and can be used to automate lots of things.

Why bother? OK, I know it should have a router and it hasn't so that's not good. But even if it did, it would be locked to one network and you'd be paying well over the odds for a small data allowance, so look at it as a narrow escape On the other hand, you could buy your own router (link just FYI, not actually recommending any) which would be unlocked to any network. You could then get a data only SIM something like this one (again, link only FYI) that currently works out at 10GB data per month for the equivalent of £4.17 per month. Because the router is unlocked, once that SIM expires you can then look around for some other deal, even on a different network.

I think you could be right - or it's just one of those weird coincidences that happen occasionally. P3190 means low engine power and the other two are self-explanatory. The good news is that, despite the dire warning about the hybrid system, it's quite unlikely to be that. I haven't got a service manual for the LS600h but the RX450h manual has about 10 pages of stuff relating to P0172 and P0175, the first one of which is below showing possible problem areas, starting with the most likely. The first thing I'd do would be to clean the mass airflow sensor. It does sound like it may already be sorting itself out so fingers crossed for you mate.

I think you need to go round to each door and use the individual switches to take the window(s) all the way down and hold for a few seconds, then all the way up and hold for a few seconds. If I'm right, you'll then be able to control them all from the drivers door. EDIT - just re-read your post and it may be the 'Master' switch on the drivers door that's been pressed by accident?

Sadly, it doesn't. Mine didn't even reduce by a tenner. I used to do computer repairs/printer setups/broadband setups and so on and I used to think that business cover was to protect my tools and/or any equipment I was transporting. I was completely shocked to find that all business cover does is to cover you for multiple journeys to places of work. Travel to an office or single place of work is under 'Social, Domestic and Pleasure' as it used to be called; travel to, say, three different houses to sort out their computers and that's where business cover comes in. Retirement taking away the need for multiple journeys doesn't bring the premiums down by any appreciable sum at all.

I understand and agree with your engineering statement Phil but I don't think it's the problem. I would imagine that to throw either an engine code or an emissions code, not bring up a hybrid system message. Whatever it is, I hope it's not a very expensive fix for Colin.

I see what you do for a living Linas but I have to take issue with your assessment and leap to the defence of Xiaomi. In our close family we have five Xiaomi phones and never had a problem with doing anything on any of them. All work with the respective banking apps and all work with Android Auto. They are all stable, all audio is clear, they all take great photos and so on. My point is, there really is no need whatsoever to pay huge amounts of money on big name phones these days. The low-mid range phones have really come on in leaps and bounds and I think it's only 'brand snobbery' that keeps the big names at the top. Having said all that, an iPhone is an iPhone and that's it. Given the sheer number of Android makes and models out there, compatibility issues must be an absolute nightmare to solve.

She certainly is very, very nice.

No kids so never used a child lock but I never thought to check; it may still be on from the previous owners. I discovered the flat battery in the morning so it had been parked on the driveway overnight and yes, I always deadlock it (if that's what two presses of the lock button on the fob does).

No, the cigarette lighter is only energised when the ignition is switched on, so there's no path back to the battery if the ignition is off.

The thread is below, Alan, but yes, the 12V terminal in the engine bay fuse box is there for that specific reason and it's exactly what I used the other day when I finally got my jump start battery pack out of the boot. The only reason that I wanted a socket in the cabin was because Sod's Law would dictate that when a jump start was needed it would be on a very cold, wet and windy night, so being able to do it from inside the cabin means I could stay dry.

Very nice Matthew. I never thought to take my rocker box cover off for the photos and the car has long since gone, but here's a couple of mine. This is an RX300 with 85-litre underslung tank with central fill point so that I could fill up from either side. 1. FlashLube 2. Gas ECU 3. Reducer

Sad to say but yes, it is. If at all possible you need to get the codes read with Techstream, which is the very same diagnostic software used by the techs in the Lexus dealer workshops. A basic code reader like those mentioned above may not be able to read Lexus-specific codes to do with the hybrid system or, if it can, it may not be able to narrow it down far enough. For example, code P0AA6 covers SIX problem areas so the sub-codes help to narrow it down. P0AA6-123* will point to one thing; P0AA6-124* will point to something else; P0AA6-125* to something else again and so on. *Not actual sub-codes, but just for illustration. If you have a Windows laptop (even an old one running Windows XP) you could buy one of these cables. They almost always come with a pirated copy of Techstream but as we can't be seen to condone software piracy, the correct way would be to freely and legally download it from here https://www.lexus-tech.eu/DiagnosticTools/Setup and pay for a block of time to use it (€5/day, €10/week). Either way, you'll still need that miniVCI cable.

Use the proper strimmer battery in the same was as you're going to use your drill battery, i.e. don't actually insert the battery as you normally would, but just use two pieces of wire to connect the battery to the strimmer and put your multimeter across the terminals of either the battery or the motor. Or, if it's easier, cut each wire in half and rejoin them so that you have bare conductors halfway along each wire for your meter probes to clip onto.

According to the label it's an 18V battery so 17.5V is probably OK. The problem is, what happens to the voltage when it's on load - it may be able to drive the strimmer alright but it may drop like a stone and be no good. Yes, it should.

Like the others, I'm sorry to hear of your injuries and I hope you make a speedy recovery. As for the car, I think you'll be alright without doing anything, although a trickle charger is a good idea regardless. It's mostly the hybrids that suffer the battery problems because the 12V batteries fitted to these are small when compared to a standard car such as yours. My 2013 RX450h had, if I remember correctly, a 45Ah or possibly 50Ah fitted, whereas yours should be 75Ah or more, I would have thought, which means that it can stand for longer before going flat. Plus, and with due respect to the others, I really doubt that the tyres will develop flat spots or brakes seize up in just a few weeks. A year or more, yes, but not just a few weeks. A few years ago I had a triple heart bypass and wasn't allowed to drive for eight weeks and I was in exactly the same situation; wife can't drive and car not insured for anyone but me. When the day finally came there were no problems whatsoever; car fired up first time, no stuck/binding brakes and no flat spots.

Any meaningful help and advice can only be given if you have the OBD codes read and tell us what they are. Anything else is just complete guesswork.

Have you, or has anyone, done any proper diagnostic fault-finding on this car or are you just throwing money and parts at it and hoping that something will work at some point? The error messages are just an indication that something, somewhere, is going (or gone) faulty. This is the sign that you need to take it to a Lexus dealer or any other garage that has access to Techstream to have the OBD codes read. You could even do it yourself with a generic code reader, but Techstream is the same diagnostic software used by the techs in the Lexus dealer workshops. Even when you get a code, even that is not guaranteed to be the fault itself, merely just the starting point for more in-depth diagnostics. For instance, code P0AA6 covers SIX possible problem areas. Generic code readers would probably stay at that, but Techstream goes further by also giving sub-codes and narrowing it down more. For example, P0AA6-123* points to one thing; P0AA6-124* points to a different thing; P0AA6-125* something else again, and so on. *Not real sub-codes, just for illustration. So, you need to have the codes read and then come back to tell us what they are and maybe we can help, but until then it's all just random guesswork.

Sorry but I have to strongly disagree there. The art is in getting a good installer who actually understands what they are doing and not just 'painting by numbers' as it were. Anybody can get a kit of parts and fit A to B to C and so on, but understanding the way the system works is crucial and can make all the difference. Until getting a hybrid I ran LPG in various cars for about 17 or 18 years and never had a single problem.

That was me in my 3RX. Not got round to doing it in this car yet but may well do now Not sure about the OBD socket because I don't know what size the wiring is behind it. Could it carry the necessary current? My 3RX took 20A (max inrush current) so I would think so, but it would need a look at the wiring diagrams to see what size fuse (if any) and where its located, just to be sure.

Aha, right, cheers.

1. No idea, but then again I tend to know where my friends live. If not, a quick text/WhatsApp/email message to them will usually get their postcode within a couple of minutes. If you do find a way of doing what you want, please post back with how you did it so that it may help others 🙂 2. Not sure what Navibridge is but your car will be equipped with Android Auto, I would have thought. Using that may be a better bet, I don't know.

It's never run exclusively on LPG. Even when the engine is hot the car starts on petrol and switches over to LPG in about 20-30 seconds, which is enough. However, FlashLube (or equivalent) is essential and I'd use it even if the engine didn't need it, just in case.

I think the charger needs to be loaded in order to produce an output, which is why you're not getting a reading. Try using a 12V car bulb across the charger terminals to see if it lights up. I think 19.51V at the battery is a bit low for an off-load reading but not too sure.

Hello and welcome to the club Mick. I was a telephone engineer with BT but was medically retired after a back injury at work, which was the main reason for buying the RX - much easier to get in and out of than a saloon car. There's a lot of good and knowledgeable people in these forums so never be shy of asking questions, someone will always help if they can.