Herbie

Good grief, there seems to be some really nervous drivers in here. Are you sure you want to be on the road at all? I passed my driving test in the instructors Austin Allegro and after that, the only thing I'd driven was my dad's Morris Marina. However, on the very first day of starting work on BT I was given the keys to a Commer van. No if's, and's, or but's, it was required for the job, so get used to it. Within a week they needed the van for someone else and I was given a more appropriate vehicle, a proper jointers wagon, the Bedford TK: No dramas with either one of them and they were both as easy to drive - and park - as cars, although the Commer vans were notoriously unstable. If anyone does happen to be a nervous driver, why not book a couple of refresher lessons with a good instructor?

Only just seen this topic so it may be too late but there's no need to buy leak detection fluid. Simply get an old jam jar or similar, put some water in and a squirt of washing up liquid, then use an old 1" paintbrush to apply the solution to any suspect areas. You'll soon see bubbles forming anywhere there's a leak.

Always great to hear a success story, well done mate

Never feel silly to ask questions Matthew. As someone once told me, "The only silly question is the one not asked."

Yes, you do need it. It's the headlight level sensor, nothing to do with air suspension.

You need the wiring diagram to see what's upstream of the 10A heater fuse. Domestic consumer units here in the UK have one big cable coming in that connects (via the main switch) to a busbar that provides power to all the individual fuses/circuit breakers, but I don't know if car fuse boxes work on the same principle. If they do, it would suggest a break in the busbar but that seems unlikely. I would look upstream on the wiring diagram and take it from there. Check for continuity, not just voltage.

Wireless charging is more hassle than it's worth. It can be stopped by the thickness of a case or protector if your phone is in one.

That does look similar but appears to only be an infrared camera that picks up anything radiating IR. The system demonstrated on TW many years ago was an actual IR illumination system with IR headlights that 'lit up' the road ahead, with an IR camera linked to a display. Or at least that's how I seem to remember it - maybe I'm wrong.

I think it looks good and it's great how it fits, I'll give you that. But I would never use a dashcam with a cigarette lighter adapter. I hardwired mine by using a piggyback fuse in the fuse box and running the cables behind the trim. The only wires you can see in my car are the power cable to the front cam and the cable from front to rear cam. There's a very small amount of each wire poking down from the roof lining. And they should all switch on/off with the car (that's a basic rule for dashcams) unless the camera also has a parking mode. Front Rear It can interfere with the DAB radio but only if you run the camera cable close to the DAB aerial cable. The easiest way to avoid this happening is to just install the camera cable on the opposite side of the car to the aerial cable.

One thing I'd really like to know is whatever happened to the infrared headlight system they showed on TW many moons ago? If I remember correctly they rigged up a Jag with the system and it worked really well, with the driver being able to see much further than with conventional headlights.

Open the door and you'll notice a rubber conduit going from the door into the main body of the car. Take off the side panel in the footwell and you should see where all the door wires come out. One, or maybe more, should be going to a nut/bolt/screw as the earth connection. If the earth connection is tight then you may have a high resistance break in the wire somewhere, so you may have to take the door card off so that you can push/pull the wire and see if it moves or breaks.

I would stay well clear of it because it seems to be overcomplicated and they are tying you into their ecosystem. There is nothing whatsoever that is 'car-specific' about a dashcam. Any dashcam can be installed in any car, but this proprietary cable and plug means that you have to stay with this company. If something went wrong with my camera I could just leave the wiring in place and get a new cam from any manufacturer and there is a 99.9999% chance that it would just plug and go. If the same thing happened to this, you'd have to go back to them for a replacement or do the wiring again. I have one of these Viofo A129 Duo sets in my car and they're brilliant. Also, because it uses the same connectors as almost any other cam, I can leave the wiring in place if I ever need to change cams.

What are these night glasses Vlad?

The earth is the return path, not the feed. The connector probably has a red wire and a black wire, the red being +ve and the black the -ve, or earth. You should really find the point where the -ve wire is bolted to the bodywork (there could be other earth wires connected there, just waiting to go faulty), then clean and tighten the connection.

There's very little difference, which is why people get so narked about the price of replacement air parts.

I bought one of these oscilloscopes and they're surprisingly good and accurate. I bought mine as a kit and did all the soldering myself but this one appears to be ready-built and all you have to do is assemble the case. Being small, portable and working from a 9V supply, this would seem to be ideal for work on the car and at just over £20, what's not to like?

I've got a Rewire Security DB2 installed in my RX and it works on a voltage range of 10V-30V, not 5V as would be output from a USB connection, so just confirm the voltage requirements of your chosen unit and make sure that a USB will do it.

I like the way you think Charles In case you don't upgrade the car, I fitted the Grom Vline in my 2018 RX and I'm well impressed with it but as I said above, the Lsailt device is a close second.

Well, I haven't had, or got, an NX but this is compatible and would be my first choice if the cost doesn't put you off. This would be a very close second choice.

What do you need it for? Power output from USB is 5V but the most important thing is that there's no separate fuse protecting the USB circuitry. The USB system seems to be powered and controlled via the multimedia head unit so if you try to draw too much power through it, you may end up damaging the head unit in some way. Depending on what you want to use it for, it may be an idea to use something like a hardwire kit for a dashcam, which would connect to a 12V supply (that would be fuse protected) and step it down to 5V.

You have to understand the process of what's happening in order to do a proper job. Modern headlamp lenses are made from Polycarbonate and over time, exposure to UV light from the sun can cause the polycarbonate to oxidise. How deeply the oxidation penetrates into the lens will dictate how you clean them up. If it's superficial surface oxidation, even using something like toothpaste can get rid of it, but if it's deeper then it usually needs a proper job using a cordless drill and various grades of sandpaper and cutting/polishing paste. The most important thing is that once the oxidation layer(s) have been cleaned off, you need a good quality UV-resistant clear coat to seal the polycarbonate from UV light or they'll be as bad again within a month or two. A good UV-resistant topcoat should last at least a couple of years.

My RX was booked into Lexus Preston for its annual service and MOT and they gave me a UX300e for the afternoon. No mention of money was made at all.

Excellent Pete, well done.

It must do, otherwise how does it monitor the battery during normal running? Plus, as Graham says, electricity will take the shortest path so if you connect the lead 5" away from the battery terminal, it won't decide to go to the monitor first. Maybe Mercedes have got some proprietary system that is designed to work in the way you say, I don't know.

I don't know the answer but it may be worth contacting http://www.pirtek.co.uk I know they do hydraulic and brake pipes, not sure about AC. The most important thing is to make sure that when it's refilled, make absolutely certain they use the correct oil, ND11, and not standard PAG oil. The refrigerant gas is the same but PAG oil will destroy the compressor.