Herbie

Maybe it's because I never switch the aircon (and now the superior climate control) off at all. Summer, winter, 365 days per year, my AC or CC is/has always been on, so the seals have never dried out and I've never lost any gas.

Doesn't really matter. The point is, if you thrash the car for a couple of hundred miles then the projected range on what fuel is left may only be 100 miles. However, if you start to drive like Miss Daisy then that projected range will go up to, say 150 miles on what's left.* The projected range can only ever be worked out by how the car has been driven in the past. My sister in law and her husband are a perfect example of this. They have an electric car (can't remember what it is) that has 'key profiles'. When June gets in the car with her own key the car welcomes her and says something like, "Hello June. You have 130 miles range left before charging." However, when Nige gets in with his key it's, "Hello Nige, you have 80 miles range before charging." This is because he drives it a lot harder than she does *All figures just made up to illustrate the point and are not accurate.

I've never needed any "antibacterial cleansing" in any aircon system I've ever had but even if it were needed, I believe it's something you can do yourself so I wouldn't be paying a dealer to do it. This is just one of many videos on the subject: As for the "aircon service" it's nothing but one big con. The air conditioning/climate control system is a completely sealed and self-contained system. The refrigerant gas and the lubricating oil in the system never wear out, never degrade, never age and are never changed by their environment. Given that, what can possibly need "servicing"? If the system doesn't get as cold as it once used to, the only explanation for that is a fault somewhere, most likely a leak of refrigerant but on a sealed system that's a fault that would need to be investigated using vacuum pumps and dye, not something that a routine service would cover or fix. I've had cars for ten years that are as icy cold as the day I bought them and they've never had a routine service on the A/C - it's simply not needed.

Why not? Far too many idiots around on the roads these days. Accidents can be genuine and, well, accidental, or they can be deliberate 'crash for cash' occurences. Dashcams can show who caused the accident and the footage can be used in fighting your case. They can also capture agressors tunring violent towards you or someone else. An absolute 'must have' in this day and age.

Maybe Lexus could communicate a bit better with their customers but they, along with the rest of the world, are suffering component supply issues and the situation is changing on an almost daily basis. Just got to sit tight and wait, I'm afraid.

I don't know what the dash looks like in one of these but if you have a cigar lighter you could just replace it with one of these like I did in my RX300 (plenty of choice on eBay):

Just sent you a PM Chris.

I don't think the electrical supply is divided into left windows and right windows so if the driver's side works then I don't think it can be the fuse. Do you mean that both front and back windows work on driver's side, or literally just the driver's window? There's an isolator switch on the driver's door master controls - have you turned that off by mistake? Go to each window in turn and use its own controls to completely lower and hold for a couple of seconds, then completely close and again hold for a couple of seconds.

That's how we end up with a jar of spare screws that we can go to to find one when we need it

If that was a computer monitor I'd suspect a bad video cable connection or bad cable. Before spending any money, take the head unit out and also expose the connectors at the back of the screen and check that the connections are secure. If they are, next thing is to check the video cable itself, which you can do by unplugging each end and testing the continuity of each conductor in turn. Most multimeters will have an audible continuity testing facility, so turn that on and touch the probes together. If it's working as normal you'll hear a tone. Now put one probe on one pin of the cable at the head unit end and use the other probe to touch each pin of the plug at the screen end where, hopefully, you'll hear a tone on one of them, proving that that conductor is good. If any fail to produce a tone then you need a new cable.

I have no idea, but just be aware that even if it's true and it works, you'll still be running 8-year old maps on a 15-year old operating system that was never very good to begin with anyway. Surely, using a stand-alone unit such as a TomTom or even better, useing Waze or Google Maps on your phone has to be more useful?

Never had a CT so I don't know for sure but, most cars usually have a 'plunger' type of switch mounted facing upwards, somewhere around the radiator or the bonnet catch, so that when the bonnet is closed it presses the plunger down. It probably has two wires to it so either just pull them off the switch and connect them together, or replace the switch.

Lexus dealer wanted £399 for GAP Insurance but https://www.motoreasy.com/gap-insurance was about £150 for 3 years cover if I remember correctly. Mind you, this was about 14 months ago before prices started going crazy so it may have gone up a bit since then. Winter tyres - you live in Greater London not the Siberian wastelands and as such, Goodyear Vector 4Seasons or Michelin Cross Climates are great all-season tyres that perform brilliantly all year round in this country. You southern softies don't even get as cold as we do up here in Lancashire

No surprise at all. I live within a mile of Asda and have always used their fuel without any problems whatsoever, which is why I always laugh at the people who say things like "Supermarket fuel is rubbish" or "I never use anything except the Ultra V-Power from Esso" or similar silly things

That doesn't work for everyone though. For instance, only 2015 and onwards (Gen 4) RXs can do this.

The biggest problem is that you can't compare 'like-for-like' any more. I passed my test back in 1975 and insurance really only came in three flavours, the highest level being 'fully comprehensive' and that's what it really meant. Everything was covered in that one package. Now, 'fully comp' only means half of what it used to and the rest is extra. This means that Company A offer a different 'fully comp' than Company B does and both of them are different to what Company C provides. 'Hate' is maybe too strong a word but I intensely dislike insurance companies and their sharp practices.

Some people won't have the opportunity to use anything but the abysmally poor Lexus system but if you have the facility to use Android Auto or Apple Carplay, I strongly urge you to do so. Music-wise, all I have to do is to say, "Play Planet Rock" or "Play Absolute Classic Rock" and it just does it, effortlessly and without fuss. Navigation-wise, all I have to say is, "Open Waze". Once Waze is up and running, "M33 4XX" and Waze answers, "M33 4XX. Got it, let's go" and the route is planned with the map onscreen within seconds. When there are alternatives, the frustration of trying to use the Lexus voice commands is more akin to self-flagellation

Insurance is so fickle that it's basically impossible to compare. It seems to change with the weather or what colour of socks you're wearing, but one thing I can say is that it shouldn't be anywhere mear as high as that, unless your area of Greater London has something to do with it. Mine was about £465 three months ago with full, protected NCB etc., etc.

Never liked the use of any 'sealant' in anything like this. If it can seal small leaks it can also seal narrow bore pipes and stop whatever fluid/gas is in there.

Toyota scales down production further.

I find they last about 12 months and then need to be replaced. Visual inspection shows no obvious rips or tears in the mesh but the continuity is obviously compromised and the signal leaks from somewhere. I check my operational pouch weekly and I have a few spare to go at, but it does make me thankful of my 'belt and braces' approach of also using a big, bright yellow, steering lock. Having said that, wrapping the fob in kitchen foil also blocks the signal, so it's not like I'll ever be without a Faraday cage of one sort or another

Very nice Nicky, enjoy it

I don't know what you're feeling but the eCVT doesn't "shift" and I defy anyone to notice the change between battery and petrol and vice versa. The changes can happen every couple of seconds in certain driving conditions, sometimes even less. Unless your eyes are glued to the energy monitor instead of the road, you'll never know when the changes occur. If you could tell in yours then maybe there was a fault somewhere.

No, no need to do that. The only thing blocked is the entry, not the immobiliser.