Herbie

Which oil did you use? Was it ND11 and/or did it say that it definitely was suitable for hybrids?

Well, I've never heard anything like that before but it does sound sort of like an electrical buzz. Read the OBD codes and see if anything has been flagged and let us know if it has.

Indeed it is, and it will be an equally very simple fix - you've just got to find where the fault is. Assuming that it is just an air problem and that the mechs/techs who've looked at it so far have ruled out, beyond any doubt, any electronic and/or sensor problem, it can only be one (or more) of four things: The source of the air, ie, the compressor - which you've ruled out Pressure not high enough from the compressor - which you've ruled out A leak or a blockage on the way from the compressor to the struts Air is reaching the struts at the correct pressure but the struts are faulty and can't use the air to do their job I used to be a telephone engineer on BT and all of our old copper trunk and junction cables (and also the modern fibre optic cables) that go from exchange to exchange, or from exchange to the green street cabinets, are all pressurised to 9psi. The reason for this is twofold - if there's a fault then air coming out prevents water from getting in; and secondly, once the cables are pressurised there should be no flow. If air starts to flow (in what should be a sealed system) then pressure alarms ring and we can measure the approximate location of the fault. I know that chasing an air leak on the Lancaster - Manchester No.6, or the Preston - Blackpool No.2 is different to chasing a problem around a car, but the basic principles apply.

Haha, just seen that the OP replied while I was typing that out. Ignore that then

Just to add to that - it is possible that the compressor is actually working but is 'weak' and can't pressurise the pipework. I have no idea what pressure these things are meant to run at.

The laws of physics can't be defeated - it's only air from a source, travelling through a pipe to a destination. If the air is being pumped out by the source and going into the pipe, but crucially not reaching its destination, it can only be either escaping before it gets there, or its being blocked from getting there. First, get a jam jar and put some water in with a few drops of washing up liquid and then, using a brush, brush all along every pipe and every joint. Leaks will form bubbles. If there are no leaks, take each section of pipe off in turn and either try to squirt water through it or blow compressed air down it. That will show up any blockages.

You must be rich I don't know of one instance where Lexus insurance isn't hundreds of squids more than more mainstream companies. My own experience is that Lexus wanted more than double the £515 that Ageas are charging me. I've worked hard for my money and I hate just giving away more than I need to. I took out GAP insurance with MotorEasy, which gave me three years cover for half the price that the dealer was quoting. Thankfully, I've not needed to claim (and I am touching wood as I type this so as to not tempt fate). As with all insurance companies, you never know if they are good or bad until you make a claim, but reading lots of good reviews about them makes me comfortable with my choice.

Your photos are not showing Peter. I must admit, having had a black interior once, I wouldn't go back to it. Makes it far too dark and dismal, which is why I like the Ivory/Beige colours.

When going downhill there's a chance that the traction battery could reach maximum charge, so if this happens the hybrid system cuts off fuel supply to the engine and begins to rotate it using the motor MG1. This uses the excess electricity being generated and I seem to remember that it can also take some from the battery as well if needed, but I may be wrong on that. This is engine braking, so no need to use the paddles at all. The hybrid system really is engineered to perfection.

I think red interior looks garish and tacky, irrespective of outer colour. We have a Mesa Red RX with Ivory and Noble Brown interior and that combo looks really classy IMHO, of course.

What sort of a sound - screechy, clicky, rumbly? Can you take a recording of it and post it up in here so that we can hear what's going on?

It's only the 12V battery that has a problem with being left. I remember reading that the high voltage traction battery should (but I do emphasize should) be alright for up to about 6 months. I'll post the article if I can find it again. Could you not leave a trickle charger connected to the 12V battery while you're away?

No, not at all. The hybrids have electric motors to supplement the petrol engine. When you're climbing a hill for instance, the engine may return, say, 10mpg normally. However, because it's getting electric assistance from the motors it doesn't have to work as hard so it may return the equivalent of, say, 16mpg (completely made up figures). Also, there are times when the petrol engine will be shut off completely, such as being stood at traffic lights or when the car is on battery power only, so you're saving mpg there too.

If you're living there then the answer depends on what the French MOT is like. Back here in good old Blighty, hybrids are not emissions tested so you could just weld in a straight pipe and forget about it. The cat you linked to should work but the question is - do you need it?

It is and it isn't. The V6 is just as thirsty as any other V6, it's being a hybrid that gives the extra mpg.

Quite a few people take this as an opportunity to get rid of the air and change to standard coils. A whole set of four coils/struts can be had for not much more than the cost of just one air strut and you'll never have the problem again.

It's an instant MOT fail if the light source (bulb) does not match the light housing unit. In other words, if the fitting is designed for a halogen bulb then it must have a halogen bulb in it. If it's designed for HID then it must have a HID bulb in it and so on.

I'm glad they don't. Imagine the cost of a replacement if it were to go faulty, not to mention that half of the car would probably need to be stripped out to do it! I'd much rather have the choice of which camera to fit and/or later replace. Plus, it's a very easy DIY job; I had the front camera mounted, wired and working within 30 minutes. Admittedly the rear took a bit longer but still wasn't difficult.

I would imagine the fuse box in the passenger footwell (sort of up behind the glove box) will be the one you want. You'll need an 'add-a-fuse' piggyback thing like this: and you'll need to pick a fuse that is ignition-switched so that it comes on when the car is turned on and goes off when the car is turned off. If the cameras are capable of 'parking mode' then you'll need a second piggyback to use with a permanently live fuse supply as well. You may find a video of how and where to run the cabling on YouTube, but to be honest I'd wait until you get the car and then you can see how it all relates in real life.

Assuming said occurence happened in Lancashire: https://www.lancashire.police.uk/op-snap-public-submission-of-dashcam-footage-faqs/

Excellent detective work Pete, great post. Glad it's now sorted for you.

Just be careful. It's not that long ago since someone here had problems after adding 'upper cylinder lube' and admittedly, his problems may have arisen from the fact that he put too much in, but the point is, these engines are some of the most finely engineered machines you'll ever see and will happily run to 200k, even 300k miles and beyond, without any extra sort of additive or lubrication. If it ain't broke, don't fix it

Mine never come on in traffic, only when I put the car in reverse. If you're talking about the front ones, just don't get so close to the vehicle in front - they'll come on because they think you're going to hit something. They can't tell the difference between just being in a traffic queue or the wall of a car park.

No, but you will probably need to reset the windows, sunroof if it has one, and the radio presets. To avoid this, just connect another 12V source to the cables immediately before releasing the battery clamps.

Sorry, just dashing out so just a very hurried reply. Yes, my 2018 RX does have the facility and it works fine. Steering wheel retracts and/or moves up and the seat moves back etc. Best thing I can suggest for now is to just have a look in the manual as I'm sure the instructions will be in there somewhere.