Herbie

I'm glad they don't. Imagine the cost of a replacement if it were to go faulty, not to mention that half of the car would probably need to be stripped out to do it! I'd much rather have the choice of which camera to fit and/or later replace. Plus, it's a very easy DIY job; I had the front camera mounted, wired and working within 30 minutes. Admittedly the rear took a bit longer but still wasn't difficult.

I would imagine the fuse box in the passenger footwell (sort of up behind the glove box) will be the one you want. You'll need an 'add-a-fuse' piggyback thing like this: and you'll need to pick a fuse that is ignition-switched so that it comes on when the car is turned on and goes off when the car is turned off. If the cameras are capable of 'parking mode' then you'll need a second piggyback to use with a permanently live fuse supply as well. You may find a video of how and where to run the cabling on YouTube, but to be honest I'd wait until you get the car and then you can see how it all relates in real life.

Assuming said occurence happened in Lancashire: https://www.lancashire.police.uk/op-snap-public-submission-of-dashcam-footage-faqs/

Excellent detective work Pete, great post. Glad it's now sorted for you.

Just be careful. It's not that long ago since someone here had problems after adding 'upper cylinder lube' and admittedly, his problems may have arisen from the fact that he put too much in, but the point is, these engines are some of the most finely engineered machines you'll ever see and will happily run to 200k, even 300k miles and beyond, without any extra sort of additive or lubrication. If it ain't broke, don't fix it

Mine never come on in traffic, only when I put the car in reverse. If you're talking about the front ones, just don't get so close to the vehicle in front - they'll come on because they think you're going to hit something. They can't tell the difference between just being in a traffic queue or the wall of a car park.

No, but you will probably need to reset the windows, sunroof if it has one, and the radio presets. To avoid this, just connect another 12V source to the cables immediately before releasing the battery clamps.

Sorry, just dashing out so just a very hurried reply. Yes, my 2018 RX does have the facility and it works fine. Steering wheel retracts and/or moves up and the seat moves back etc. Best thing I can suggest for now is to just have a look in the manual as I'm sure the instructions will be in there somewhere.

This guy on the Bay of Fleas will also cut the blade from either the key number of from a photo. I've used and recommended him a few times, all with great results.

I always liked to support the indy guys and have always been very happy with both their work and the amount they charge. However, given that we now get a 'free' warranty with every service (which would have to be done anyway, just usually cheaper than at Lexus dealers), I'm sticking with Lexus for the time being.

All of the above plus, I think I read somewhere that the wraps only last two to three years but I could well be wrong on that. Just seems like a hell of a lot of money to lose over three years if it is true.

Only within a one-hour limit Barry. You have to be a Gold Member to get unlimited edit time.

I could never get to grips with Morse. I could learn the letters/words easy enough but the constant tone used to drive me batty! My ears are tuned to Led Zeppelin, AC/DC, The Who, Rolling Stones and many more, but not to dits and dahs

Honest truth? Quite simply, and seriously, as a time-served electrician by trade, then most of my working life as a telephone engineer, latterly a self-employed computer tech and also a radio ham, the honest truth is that if I don't know what something does, I have no qualms about poking, pressing, pulling or doing whatever, to find out what happens Best case scenario - I learn something and store it in my little gray cells for future reference. Worst case scenario - I either have to fix something myself if I can, or I have to pay someone else to fix it if I can't, which thankfully, doesn't happen very often.

In the 'On' position (pushed in), when the doors open the overhead cabin lights come on. When switched off, they don't.

Don't worry about it and just let the system manage it - it's working as it should. If you did a long downhill stretch those two last bars would illuminate. As the drivers or end users of these cars, we don't have full access to all 100% of the hybrid battery and that screen is only indicating the state of charge of the part of the battery that's 'ours'. In reality, there's another 20% below and another 20% above that indicator (if I remember correctly). Given that it's your first hybrid you may find the below helpful, or not 😄

Free with a service or £59 as a stand-alone.

@Sybaris If this is your first hybrid you may find the following info useful. Apologies to others on the forum who must have seen me post this many times First of all, hybrids don't have a traditional starter motor or alternator, or anything that would normally be driven by a belt from the engine because the engine doesn't run all the time - imagine being halfway through a turn and you lose power steering because the engine shuts down! Instead, it's all driven electrically. The 12V battery boots up the computers and gets the car into READY mode, equivalent to switching on the ignition in a conventional car. At this point you can drive off on battery power alone if you so wish, but these aren't electric cars and you'd only get a couple of miles (if that) before the traction (hybrid) battery was effectively flat. When the hybrid system wants the petrol engine (ICE - Internal Combustion Engine) to run, it energises Motor/Generator 1 (MG1) and uses that to spin the ICE up to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it. In a standard car the 12V battery is charged up by the alternator but we don't have one. Instead, a device called a DC/DC converter steps down the 288V from the traction battery to about 14.5V to charge it. Other converter/inverters use the same process for other systems like the power steering which, if I remember correctly, uses 48V. The aircon compressor is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor and the two hybrid transaxle motors MG1 and MG2 are both 650V permanent magnet motors. Talking of the aircon compressor, if the system ever needs to be regassed, make sure that you take it to an aircon specialist (or, of course, a Lexus dealer) who knows and can deal with hybrids. The reason for this is that, although the refrigerant gas is the same as any other car, the lubricating oil isn't. As I said above, the aircon compressor is driven by an electric motor and the motor windings are immersed in the oil for cooling purposes. Standard compressor lubricant is called PAG oil but it's a low dielectric oil which means that it conducts electricity and it will damage the motor windings. We need to use ND11 oil which is a high dielectric and won't damage the windings. It's been shown that as little as 1% contamination by PAG oil can, and will, cause problems. Maybe not immediately but it will. Ideally, a specialist should have a dedicated ND11 machine so that cross-contamination with PAG can't happen. Although it's perfectly alright to jump start a hybrid with a standard car, NEVER, EVER, do it the other way round - you may get away with it but it's not worth the risk. The 12V battery in any car is only used for starting and then the alternator or equivalent takes over the running of the 12V systems such as lights, radio etc., etc. When jump starting, the 'donor' car should have its engine running before the 'recipient' car attempts to start. This is so that the recipient will draw on the donor alternator, not its battery. This is all fine and dandy for a standard alternator because it can output anywhere upwards of 300A and a conventional starter motor will need every Amp of that, but our DC/DC converter can't supply anywhere near that amount and if it was asked to do so it may well expire with a very loud bang and lead to a very expensive repair. When coming to a stop at traffic lights or whatever, if you think you'll be moving away again very soon just sit with the car in 'D' and your foot on the brake. If it's going to be a few minutes then you can put the car in 'P' and take your foot off the brake. Don't put the car in 'N' because the hybrid system doesn't charge the batteries when 'N' is selected. Hope that helps. I'm sure I've missed lots of things but someone else will fill in the gaps. Above all else, enjoy the car

Oh Wally, Wally, Wally...the thing is, quite a lot of us on here manage to use Techstream without any problems at all. It's not rocket science mate. I presume that you know that you live in Europe so you should choose that as the region. Your profile says that you have an RX450h, so if you go to the back of the car and the badge confirms it, enter that into Techstream as the model and so on. Eventually you'll be able to interrogate the Radar Cruise Control and tell us what you find and if you can alter the speed increments. As I said, we'll just wait here for you

All selectable by yourself, so just plug in your own details and off you go. We'll just wait here while you find the answer.

Just sent you a PM that may help Zabe.

Aha, right, I see the confusion. The 12V battery is often referred to as the auxilliary or starter, because the main battery in a hybrid is the high voltage traction battery (depends on model but this is usually somewhere around 300V) and you don't want to be messing around with that unless you have the necessary PPE, tools and you know exactly what you're doing.

Almost any car accessory shop that sells batteries will be able to test it for you, or somewhere like KwikFit, National or even Halfords. I've never had a GS so I don't know where the battery is, but I'm thinking it can only be in the engine bay or the boot. In my RX it's under the boot floor. EDIT - I'm trying to do half a dozen things at once today so I didn't notice at first but something seems a bit fishy here. First you say that the battery is only two months old and that you've tested it to be ok, but then you ask "where the auxiliary battery is located as I'll just get a new one from lexus as its never been changed! " What's going on?

Given that it's only two months old you're most likely right, but did you just test it with a multimeter or did you do a proper load test with a proper battery tester? The multimeter can show, say, 12.8V but as soon as a load is applied that voltage could drop like a stone if the battery has a bad cell. Yes - any of the other things listed below 'Auxilliary battery' in the last column headed "Trouble Area". These are all things that could be at fault in order of likelyhood.

I haven't got the workshop manual for a GS but this is for the RX450h and is probably the same. Notice that the 12V battery is the most likely cause in each case, so first thing I'd do would be to have that battery load tested and see what the result is.