Herbie

Yes, it does work with Windows 10, and if you ever do get up here then a meal and a chat sounds like a good plan

I think whoever told you that needs to give their head a wobble. Simply locate the interior fuse box and follow the wiring harness up. You'll find a big rubber grommet that takes the harness through the bulkhead, so you just need to make a small hole in that to push a pair of wires through. You may even be able to put a bit of lubricant on the new wires and push them through the existing hole with the rest of them. It's not quite the same thing but have a look at the topic below to see how I fitted a jump start socket in my 3RX:

You're welcome Up to the introduction of the Relax scheme I used to take it to my mate's garage here in Preston. A brilliant mechanic who charges reasonable and realistic rates, but I think Preston will be too far for you to travel 😄 Because of Relax I now take it to Lexus Preston and I have to say that I'm more than happy with their work, in both customer service and the workshop. I still grapple with the old Lexus Paradox, where people are drawn to the brand because of their reputation for reliability but then take a warranty because they're worried about the reliability As for Lexus diagnostics, if you have an old Windows laptop (even as old as Windows XP) then you just need to buy one of these miniVCI cables which will come with a pirated version of Techstream. Of course, we can't condone pirate software so the legit way would be to download an official copy from here and then pay for a block of time to use it (€5/day, €10/week etc). Either way, you'll need that cable anyway.

First of all, Lexus ECUs are locked down solid and are notoriously difficult to remap. Secondly, even if it could be done it's hardly worth it because the petrol engine is constantly being switched off and on and doesn't run all the time. Finally, these engines use the Atkinson Cycle and are superbly engineered, as is the whole hybrid system. It's extremely complex and is a marvel of modern engineering. In other words, if it ain't broke, don't fix it - the car will always know what's best for itself so just let it do its thing and waft you around in complete comfort.

No David, I didn't. I tried to get a refund but communicating with them was just so difficult I just cut my losses and put it down to experience. Ironically, I went with a Carlinkit (at about £200) because I could neither justify nor afford a Grom Vline2 at about £500 - and then got one anyway so it's effectively cost me £700 Well worth it though and I'm pleased with the Grom. It's not quite perfect and still has a foible or two, but it's close to perfect and has the potential to get there. Also, being an American company, there's no language barrier when contacting support and their support team are actually very good.

Don't have a look at Carlinkit! Over on the Lexus owners groups on Facebook they have a very bad reputation, both for the device itself and also the support, which is basically non-existant.

The SE-L is the top of the range and so has all the toys, bells and whistles. I don't know about the seats. The SE-L seats may physically fit in a lower model but I doubt the seat toys would work because I don't think the required harnesses and/or ECUs would be there. You may be able to swap the ML audio system into a lesser model but I doubt it would be financially viable given the cost of the extra components you'd need and the amount of labour involved. Plus, the standard system is great anyway.

Excellent

I would have used 'poser' but the dictionary said 'poseur' was more correct. However, being from Preston in Lancashire, I would have normally used what Mincey's cousin did but I knew the board wouldn't let me use it anyway

The ones with X3 or X5 make me laugh out loud - especially when no longer on an X3 or X5

Well, you did ask Personally I don't see the point. Pretentious poseur with more money than sense is what they say to me However, each to their own

If you right-click the video a context menu will pop out and you can copy the video URL. Open another tab in your browser and paste the video URL to see it on YouTube:

Sorry Harry, I've only just seen your post. Click on this link for both answers mate.

As Paul says, this just isn't possible without spending money to add in extra components. I have a Grom Vline2 and at about £530 it's not cheap. Hell, it's not even perfect and it does have its foibles, but it has the potential to be perfect and it's close now. They're an American company so no language barrier when dealing with their great support team, if needed. The great thing about it is that it's a full-blown tablet and whereas Apple CarPlay or Android Auto are restrictive in what apps they allow you to run, with the Vline you can download apps directly to its internal memory and run them directly from there, without the need to invoke ACP/AA. Have a look at my (admittedly poor) attempt at a review below:

Yes, you can just replace the top mounts. I know one or two on here have done it, or rather sent the struts to a guy called Brian at an engineering company, but I can't remember any more details. Someone else will be able to tell you more, but at least you now know that it can be done.

Quite simply, another RX. I've had three of them now and I just can't think of any better car

And you give us 3 seconds to decide what it is Only a guess but I would think it's a fan or a servo just overrunning. See if there are any OBD codes and if not, don't worry about it.

It is actually the official figure but it's obviously unobtainable in reality. I honestly don't know how manufacturers get away with it.

According to this, none of them:

We all take out various insurances hoping that we'll never need to claim. In more than 40 years of driving I've had five punctures (touching wood so as not to tempt fate) so on that record, I'd never bother with tyre insurance.

Prevention is better than cure, so I use a nice bright yellow Stoploc Pro Elite in my RX to act as a deterrent and hopefully make the scrotes think that it's too much hassle and that they'd be better off with an easier target. This is my old car but I'm still using it on my 2018 4RX:

Hmm, good to know - one in the list of companies to never use. I don't know who told him that but it's utter codswallop. It's perfectly acceptable to do it that way and probably more convenient too, but it's equally as acceptable to connect jump leads to the battery itself, under the floor of the boot. I would imagine that that's the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating. It's good to know, but in reality it doesn't make a difference to the hybrids (a) because it doesn't crank the engine, and (b) it only takes around 20A to get the hybrid system up and running in READY mode. Fingers crossed that it's all sorted for you now mate, and that you can just get down to the business of enjoying the car

Yep. In theory at least, although a small jump start battery pack is really the way to go and it's very handy to keep in the car.

Yes Peter, that's correct. The 12V boots the computers and operates a 12V twin-relay interlock to bring the hybrid system onstream and into READY mode. After that, the hybrid system charges the 12V battery via a DC/DC converter that converts the 288V from the traction battery to about 14.5V to run the 12V systems and also charge the 12V battery. The most worrying thing about this is that, to quote the OP: All he needed was to read the fuse box label and find one that is ignition-switched. Even if the fuse box lid is missing, two minutes with a multimeter would have found one. I'm beginning to wonder if he's wired it to a permanent 12V supply and this is the cause. EDIT: Another very worrying point: What sort of technician doesn't know how to jump start? This job wasn't done at Halfords was it David?

Are they paying for this or are you? If you're paying I would insist that they bypass the air drier with a short length of pipe to see if that improves the situation, or take out the filter if it's removable, before spending any money.