Herbie

Annoying it may be, but it's there for your own safety as well as others. It's a warning that the tailgate is operating and that people should stand clear or there's a chance they may be hurt. You may think it's not necessary but when I first started driving back in 1975, car workshop manuals like Haynes told you how to remove engines or how to replace valves; nowadays they tell you not to drink the contents of the car battery - that's how 'dumbed-down' our society has become. And let's face it, how long does the beep last? Two seconds? As the saying goes, "Suck it up Buttercup". There's a lot more things in life to be concerned about than a two second beep every now and then

Only that I don't have that problem on my 2018 RX. Maybe it's time for an eye test?

Hmm... That article isn't bad but this last paragraph from it isn't exactly great: "However knowing a cell is 'dead' is of no more use to you than knowing that the battery won't hold a charge, so a test of the resting voltage is just as effective a diagnosis." The problem is that using a standard multimeter to read 'resting' voltage can be misleading. It may show 12.6 or 13V, which according to the chart above is 100% charged but if there's a bad cell, when a load is applied to the battery that voltage may drop like a stone. Really testing a battery needs something like this:

Yes, jump starting is OK, as long as you're not using a hybrid vehicle as the source because you should never use a hybrid to give a jump start. If you don't want to lose settings such as seat memory, radio presets, clock and so on, connect a 12V source to the battery cables immediately before slackening off the clamps and removing them from the battery. Which type of battery? No idea, but Yuasa are a well respected brand.

Being 64 years old, any value up to 4 is apparently good for PSA. My last 4 have been 0.75, 0.75, 0.75 and last time 0.52. I've got a test to do and send off tomorrow so we'll see what that comes in at.

All the best Piers, I hope everything goes well my friend. I've never had that one but eight years ago I had bladder cancer. Thankfully it was a very small growth and they cut it out successfully but each year for 10 years I have to have a cystoscopy. The actual procedure itself is nothing and is only slightly uncomfortable, but it's the feeling of peeing razor blades for a couple of hours later that I don't like

In that case then, go to a car accessory shop that sells batteries, even Halfords if you have to, and ask them to load test it. Using a multimeter alone may give a great reading such as 12.75V for instance, but when a load is applied that voltage may drop like a stone.

Thanks David, that's my wife's philosophy too. She always says things happen for a reason and that one just wasn't meant to be

Initially it was two cameras, one at the front looking from right to left (from the 'attached' side of the semis to the driveway side) and one at the rear. It quickly became apparent that if anyone was going for the car, the front camera wouldn't get their faces properly, so I added a third camera into the system, looking from the front door and along the car. The quote: Not for our particular house, no. In the photo below you can see the camera above the front door. I lifted the first two or three rows of tiles and then fed the cable out to the brickwork of the gable end. It was then taken through the wall (approx. where I've arrowed) and into the spare bedroom where the network video recorder is. The camera and cable run may be considered too low and open to fiddling with, but I'm working on the principle that their image will already have been captured before they can disable anything. The two front cameras:

What makes you think it's the battery at fault? Seeing a message about a lock problem wouldn't automatically make me think that it's the battery.

It would have been a very easy DIY job but I had too much on at the time, so we had our system professionally installed by Paul Whitehead, https://www.hometech-solutions.co.uk/ About three or four weeks ago we offered on a bungalow that had a double garage that was detached from the house by about 15-20 metres and I was weighing up camera options for that. Mind you, even though the garage there would have housed our RX comfortably, I still wouldn't have used it that way. The garage was going to be my 'heavy' man cave, whilst the third bedroom would have been my electronics/radio/computer man cave. Sadly, it wasn't to be. It was sold to someone who was basically a cash buyer with no chain behind them and who had the money in the bank ready to go, so our search continues.

Sadly, car batteries just don't last as long as they used to. I remember the days when 8, 9 or even 10 years wasn't unusual and 5-year warranties were the norm - not these days though. Not at all - almost always a fault on something and faults can occur in any wiring (original or not) and any location.

First of all, you may find this chart helpful, but be aware that this is only 'standing' voltage without any load applied: Although I've never seen it in reality, each manufacturer should be able to supply the spec for an acceptable quiescent current drain when the car isn't being used. As a rule of thumb though, somewhere around 50mA (0.05A) is roughly considered the norm. If it reaches 100mA then I'd say there's definitely something wrong. I don't know what size battery is in the UX but we'll say 50Ah as an example. This means that the battery can supply 50A for 1 hour or 25A for 2 hours and so on, so we can work out (very roughly, for reasons that will become apparent) how long the battery charge should last if it isn't used. NB - this assumes a brand new and fully charged battery - something that yours almost certainly isn't. So, 50Ah divided by 0.05A = 1,000 hours (or 41.66 days, or 5.95 weeks) from fully charged to fully discharged. However, for the purposes of starting the car, the battery will become useless long before it's fully discharged (which is why this is only a very rough indication). If you really think you have a parasitic drain then this is the best way to investigate it:

Hi Brandon, Just sent you a PM which will hopefully help.

You got me Len - I hate gardening so anything to make life easier

They don't want to be too high - you need to get the little scrote's faces. The two photos below were just captured from my system a few minutes ago. I've had to reduce the file sizes but they're from Hik-Vision Color-Vu 4MP PoE cameras:

You don't need to replace the entire head unit if you go for something like the Grom Vline2 OK, it's not cheap and it isn't perfect, but it isn't far off and it's so close that I'm confident that a firmware upgrade in the not too distant future will get it there. If you ever need support then the guys are in the States so there's no language barrier and they are very helpful. The best thing about this unit is that it's a full-blown Android tablet. Apple Carplay and Android Auto are quite restrictive with which apps you can load and use but this unit isn't. Any app from the Google Play Store can be downloaded to, and run directly from, the Vline. No need to use ACP/AA at all. I did this (admittedly poor) bit of a review that may help. I'll have to do an updated one soon, but for now:

Hah, no wonder you recommend them. What's the old saying - if you have to ask the price, you can't afford it? Unless I missed it somewhere, no prices mentioned at all

As someone else said, flickering is usually a sign that the bulb is on its way out. It takes about 20-25,000V to strike the arc and around 80V to maintain it and the flickering is a sign that the electrodes can no longer handle it.

Youtube is always the first port of call for things like this https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=change+side+mirror+bulb+lexus+is300h

How does that work then, because according to item No. 7 on their website:

Thank goodness!

Faraday pouches tend to fail after a few months even though there is no visible indication of failure. Test them at least weekly by keeping the fob in the pouch and walk to the car to see if the interior lights come on. Wrapping the fob in a bit of kitchen foil works well.

It depends what you want and how much you want to spend. First thing I'd say is that prevention is better than cure, which is why I use a big, bright yellow, Stoplock Elite Pro steering wheel lock in my RX. Far better that they see this visual deterrent and move on to an easier target, rather than relying on something that only comes into play once the scrotes have already got your pride and joy. Right, back to trackers. You can spend hundreds of pounds on the device itself and then more money on monthly central monitoring charges, or you can go for something that doesn't have central monitoring but does have live tracking so that you can ring the police yourself and tell them the location, direction of travel, speed and so on. I got the Rewire Security DB2 tracker https://www.rewiresecurity.co.uk/gps-tracker-car-tracking-devices (although I bought mine from Amazon). It's £34.99 for the device itself and £60/year (£120/2 years) for the data SIM. Very simple 2-wire install, live map tracking, geofencing, alerts for movement, ignition on and out of geofence zone as well as a whole host of others. I'm well pleased with mine and, unless you specifically need or want central monitoring, there's just no need to spend more money than that.

That doesn't really apply to the hybrids because the 12V battery does very important work but not a lot of it. A conventional starter motor will draw upwards of 300A for as long as it takes to fire the engine, whereas a hybrid only draws 20A or so for a second or two and that's it, hybrid system is in READY mode..