Herbie

You have to be logical and methodical when dealing with electrics and logic says that if you wiggle the negative lead and it makes a difference, then there's probably something wrong with that. Follow it from the battery to wherever it's terminated and make sure the connection is clean and tight. Also check other earth straps from body to engine and some cars also have body or engine to gearbox straps. Alternatively, try using a jump lead or other piece of cable and try not to disturb anything else but just touch the negative battery post with one end and any bare unpainted metal/nut/bolt/screw with the other end. If that works and you can repeat it each and every time, then you've proved that the earthing is faulty. If you don't want to tackle it yourself, you don't say which part of Sussex you're in but here's a couple of places with good reviews: https://www.autoelectrical-crawley.co.uk/car-electrician-sussex.html https://www.stevesautolancing.co.uk/ https://www.autoelectricdiagnostics.co.uk/services https://www.tmeautoelectrical.co.uk/

The first question has to be why did you do this? I've never needed to replace battery terminals on any car I've ever owned in more than 47 years of driving. Are the terminal connections tight and clean? Have you checked (preferably undone, cleaned and tightened) the 'other ends' of the battery cables, ie, from positive battery terminal to starter solenoid then from solenoid to starter motor? And also the earth straps from the negative battery terminal to the body and engine? Finally, I'm a firm believer in using the proper trade, ie, mechanic for general mechanical work and auto electrician for electrical work, so if it were me I'd be taking it to an auto electrician to be sorted if I couldn't do it myself. Same info as video above but just a bit more in-depth and also showing voltage drop charts:

You'll notice a vent hose plugged in near the positive terminal, so as long as the new battery has a vent hole for that hose to go into, any battery will do. The temperature sensor is usually just taped on, so remove it from the old battery and tape it on the new one - job done. Absolutely nothing magical or mystical about it whatsoever.

It may (or may not) be sufficient but any passing scrote doesn't know that you've done that so they may well still attempt entry or worse still, go for ripping out the CANBUS wiring, thus disabling any alarm/immobiliser. As the old saying goes, 'prevention is better than cure' so a great big bright yellow steering lock, easily visible from the driveway, should hopefully be enough for the scrotes to think 'sod it' and go to an easier target, leaving my pride and joy untouched.

Cheers Keith, that's very good of you and so kind of David to say that

Just in the interests of fairness it has to be said that in most tests and reviews the Stoplock Elite Pro just pips it at the post. It's very close though, with the Stoplock scoring 10 and Milenco 9, or Stoplock 5 with Milenco 4 (even 4.5) depending on the scoring system used - so you're not going to go wrong whichever one you choose.

If the fuses are good but you can't measure a voltage at the plug, you must have a broken wire/connection somewhere. You need to look at the wiring diagram and then break the circuit down at any connection points and then look for continuity on each section in turn.

When you say "completely" dead - do you mean that the engine doesn't crank or start, but you can switch on the sidelights/headlights, or is absolutely nothing working at all?

Honestly and seriously? Take it straight to an auto electrician and let them sort it. Unless you have the test gear, wiring diagrams and the knowledge (and if you had, you wouldn't have asked for help in here) you stand a very good chance of making things worse rather than better.

Hmm... methinks these are the words of a salesman whose job it is to sell things, rather than to have any technical knowledge of the subject. "Avoid a fire from the combination of the 12V battery and the hybrid battery" is just waffle and means nothing in this context.

It depends a lot on how you use the car. Every time it goes flat it loses a bit of capacity so then it becomes a vicious circle. Are you just using it for short runs and then it stands for a while, or are you doing runs of an hour or more each time so that it has a decent chance at gaining some charge? If it's your usage pattern that's the problem then getting a trickle charger like the CTEK MXS 5 and keeping that connected will sort it out. On the other hand, if you're using the car normally then it may be a parasitic drain on the system and buying a new battery won't fix it; the excess current draw will have to be investigated.

As long as it physically fits where it should, any should be fine. Yuasa are a well respected brand.

Well, as it stands I can't see what you expect to gain by wireless charging. I mean, you still have a wire on show so why not just use a normal charging cable and plug directly into the phone? Not sure about the switch blanks you mention - can you take a photo of those?

Two reasons: Lexus Preston hasn't been open very long and we didn't have a dealership here when we were looking for our first Lexus Both the 2013 RX that we had, and then part-ex'd for the 2018 one we currently have, were on sale at Lexus Teesside Everybody we've dealt with at Teesside have all been great, especially David. When our current RX showed up on their website I called David and he said to me, "John, I sold you your last one and I promise, this one is even better". And with that, we were hooked. A few days later we drove the 2013 one up there and came back in the 2018 one, such is our trust in David. Before Preston opened we also drove up there for servicing etc. It's a 4-hour round trip but hey, it's no hardship in such a beautiful beast. Having said that, now that Preston has its own dealership, we do take it there.

That's exactly why I went for a larger capacity. I like to help people whenever I can and I would be mortified if I couldn't help when someone needed it, especially if it was a vulnerable person.

When I was about 9 years old I had an argument with a friend and, as you do at that age, we called each other names. I called him Krill because his name was Chris and there was a cartoon or comic monster around at the time called Krill (I'm sure it made sense to a 9 year old at the time). I don't know why but in turn, he called me Herman (as in Herman Munster from 'The Munsters' TV programme). For some reason 'Herman' stuck and it wasn't long before it morphed into Herbie and that's been with me ever since. I'm now 64 and I'm still known as Herbie, so much so that even my own parents called me Herbie when they were still alive. If I ever get called John it's either on some form of official paperwork or I'm in trouble

Absolutely a very good idea. I have something similar to this one and although I've never had to use it on my own car, I have used it a few times to get others going and it's brilliant.

David has sold me my last two RXs. He's a great guy to deal with, very helpful, pleasant and friendly. Give him my regards when you see him (John - long-haired guy from Preston who is still loving his Red RX ) Your new one looks superb Keith, well done!

I use a Xiaomi Mi 10T Lite and have no problems whatsoever. When we had our 2013 RX I had an older phone, but again, no problems. I think it's more likely to be a setting somewhere that isn't correct because most Bluetooth problems occur on the music side of things, when you're trying to use the phone as a media player and is usually because the (older) car Bluetooth doesn't have the A2DP protocol.

In the past I had a 2005 RX300 and a 2013 RX450h and would take those to Ribble View for most things and then have the HHC done at Lexus. However, I now have a 2018 RX (got it 18 months ago and it was the newest car I've ever had) that I have a service plan with Lexus for. Once it gets to about 7 or 8 years old I'll start taking it to Ribble View because there's no point in spending main dealer money on an old car.

If you want an excellent independent garage with great mechanics who do a great job at reasonable prices, I can highly recommend: Ribble View Garage 2A Rough Hey Road Grimsargh Preston PR2 5AR 01772 798856 Just tell them that John, the guy with long hair and the red Lexus RX recommended them By the way, they have a 5* rating on Google Reviews (5/5 from 43 reviewers). If you prefer to go to a Lexus dealer, Lexus Preston are also excellent but probably double the price of Ribble View. As for the headlights, a 3M or Meguiar's Headlight Restoration Kit are what you need and there are plenty of videos on YouTube to show you how it's done.

If you want to fit your own tracker I can highly recommend the DB2 from Rewire Security: https://www.rewiresecurity.co.uk/db2-self-install-diy-gps-tracker

Just to add to Andrew's suggestion I've had excellent results with this https://htsupplies.co.uk/products/innotec-deblock-ice-aerosol Never tried it on spark plugs but I have no reason to think it would be any less effective.

You have checked the tyre pressures haven't you? If you have and they're alright, see if there are any OBD codes flagged up. The power steering is driven by a 48V electric motor so if anything is going wrong with that or its ECU, hopefully there'll be codes generated.

I would think so - all it'll need is power and Robert is your mother's brother.