Herbie

Just a guess being as no one else has answered, but surely it can only be an air problem? Either compressor not working at all or working but not efficiently; air leak(s) in pipework/joints or the strut airbags?

Most, if not all, of these will come with a mains charger and a USB cable. The mains charger is basically a mobile phone power unit that steps down 230V to 5V. USB is an industry standard 5V so you can be safe in the knowledge that whether you use a mains charger, or plug it into a USB port in the car, or even plug it into a laptop USB port, you'll always find 5V on the end. Mobile phones run on 5V; each of those mi-fi routers will run on 5V and so on. I know that the cigar lighter and 12V power sockets in my 2018 RX are only energised when the ignition is on, so in your case I think you just need to plug the router into a USB port and it'll be fine. Hope that helps my friend.

None at all, but in the words of that odious creature Suella Braverman, I have no problem with admitting my mistakes

I can't see anything on that box that says it acts as a reversing camera. It's simply a dual dash cam with front and rear cameras.

As you know Barry, I use my phone as a hotspot so I haven't got any personal experience of any of these units but I can say that you should be happy with any of them from what I'm reading: https://www.techadvisor.com/article/724006/best-mobile-wifi-routers.html

If your car is a more recent one with Android Auto or Apple CarPlay then you can just install What3Words like any other app. I fitted a Grom Vline 2 into my 2018 RX and go into W3W for the location but then get it to hand over to Waze for the actual navigation.

The start-up sequence is that you press the Start button and the 12V battery pressurises the brakes and boots the computers to get the car into READY mode. At that point you can drive off using battery power alone but you'd only get to the top of the street before the petrol engine kicks into life. When the hybrid system wants to run the petrol engine it energises MG1 and uses that to spin up the engine to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it. The main thing in the context of this conversation is that once you see the green READY light on the dash, the hybrid system is up and running and it controls everything. As well as not having a traditional starter motor, hybrids don't have an alternator either. The DC/DC converter takes the 288V feed from the traction battery and converts it to about 14.6V to run all the 12V systems and to charge the 12V battery.

As Colin says above, and here's the confirmation from Lexus: Lexus advice re headlights in France - anonymised for distribution (French & English).26-7-2014.pdf

Sorry Peter but that's wrong. It has nothing to do with being "warmed up" - it's completely governed by the state of charge.

It doesn't matter which one, 12V from the front is exactly the same as 12V from the back.

Just to add to what Vlad says, I think he's being optimistic with EV range - I'd say more like two miles at most. Anticipate the road ahead and brake gently. If stood at traffic lights or whatever and you think you'll be moving off within a couple of minutes, leave the car in D and just keep your foot on the brake. If you think it'll be longer before moving off, put the selector in P and you can then take your foot off the brake. Never put the car in N in these situations because the hybrid system will not charge the high voltage traction battery if it's in N. We, as the drivers or end-users of these magnificent beasts, never get full access to the whole capacity of the traction battery, so the battery charge indicator you'll see on the dash is only a representation of the state of charge of 'our' bit. Think of us being able to use the middle 60% but there's the first 20% and the last 20% we can't use. The graphic below explains it well:

No they don't John, only the fronts.

You could be right Peter but if the DRLs are also acting as front positional lights, then this would be something that was done at the factory, not as a modification later, so maybe there are different rules for that?

I don't know to be honest, it was just something to look at and be aware of.

Most cars that use dipped headlamps as DRLs do so by dropping the voltage from 12V to 6V. I really don't like that idea so I fitted completely separate DRLs to my RX300 when I had it and that is very simple to do, using just one relay. The DRLs should only come on with the ignition and they must go off when you turn on the sidelights/headlights and the wiring diagram below shows how to wire the relay to achieve that. Of course, it doesn't answer your question if you really want to use the existing headlamps but I think separate DRLs are best anyway. I used combined 'switchback' LEDs for mine:

This is what I mean. If you tighten that nut too much then the post can become disconnected from the plate inside the battery case:

All you need are a couple of pool noodles:

Cheers Steve Zep are my favourite band (Zep IV being my favourite album ever) and they just can't be enjoyed to the full without the volume being wound up

True, and I do use cans sometimes but I'm lucky to have a wife who also enjoys the same sort of music and at the same sort of volume that I do

I'm not talking about a bank of Marshall Amps and a 10x10 stack of 100W speaker cabinets here Malc This place would have enough separation to allow a decent volume. It recently sold for £285k but we missed out because we hadn't sold our own house at that time

Thanks Brent, good advice, but I think we've done our 'due diligence' and have all bases covered unless Civil Service and BT Pensions go bust (but nobody can make contingency plans for that). The thing about Lifetime Mortgages is that there's hardly any hoops to jump through. They don't need to 'agree in principle'; we can choose to pay interest and capital like an ordinary mortgage (no) or pay nothing at all (no - because interest would compound too quickly), or the third option, the one that we're going with, is pay interest only. The debt is only recovered when the last one of us either dies or ends up in long-term care. Nationwide will lend up to 36% of the value of the property and even if interest rates go a lot higher yet, we can still afford the monthly payments. Although the interest rate of a lifetime mortgage is fixed for life at the outset, I believe we could also remortgage later on to get a lower interest rate. Sadly, staying in this house wouldn't solve all medical problems and a bungalow is really the only option we have.

I just used standard Gorilla two-part epoxy when the same thing happened to ours and it's been perfect for the last 5 years.

Thanks for your interest and your advice folks, it's much appreciated. If we were different people we would take it and our problems would be quickly solved, but unfortunately we are our own worst enemies. First of all, we (or more correctly, I) need to stay in Preston. I once tried a move up to Carlisle - only an hours journey up the M6 - but within four months I was desperately homesick and came back. It wasn't for Preston the town, but my mates. One particular set of friends mean the world to me and the twelve of us have known each other since the first day of infant school, 59 years ago. We meet up at least once a month for a few beers but we all share a love of the same kinds of music so we all go to gigs together as well and usually have a couple of 'lads weekends away' each year. Secondly, after having a few beers in the town centre, I know that by the time I get home (just 3.0 miles) I'll have to rocket out of the taxi and break the world land speed record to get upstairs to the loo, so I can't live any further out than a 3 mile radius from the town centre. Add to that that it absolutely must be a detached bungalow with garage and I can see us being in rented accommodation for quite a long time before something comes up that fits the bill. It's not ideal and it'll be a pain to have to move twice, but we're OK with that. Malc - good advice mate but our house is more than halfway through the selling process and we'd hate to let the buyer down. Plus, now that we've made up our minds to move, we want to do it, especially as a detached place will allow me to play my music as loud as it's intended to be

One other thing has just plopped into my head re the negative lead. Battery clamps can be overtightened and if that happens the battery post itself can break its connection with the negative plate in the battery case, so make sure it's not the post itself causing the intermittent fault.

Go to a breakers yard or an eBay breakers and try to get a used mirror? Failing that, if you can do without the dimming you could get a standard mirror glass and cut to size then stick it on the top of the faulty one.