Herbie

You live in the West Midlands, not Alaska Switch the heated seats on as soon as you get in so that you're getting heat straight away, then within five minutes the heater will be pumping out hot air.

That would completely and utterly defeat the whole purpose of a manual lock, so I'm sure that cannot be right.

Hmm..... I've never known an earth strap to go to the fuse box, there's just no need for it.

I think it does take 90 degrees - but you do it at your own risk in case I'm wrong 🙂

It should, but the problem is that it hardly ever gets used so it needs a good deal of force to turn the key. Some people have even resorted to using a pair of pliers to get extra leverage and/or squirt a bit of release oil in.

Could well be. I just saw it on these forums somewhere and kept it for when the question inevitably crops up again

It doesn't work like that. Without a 12V supply there's no access to the hybrid system and traction battery. It's just the 12V battery recovering enough to provide enough power to start the hybrid system. Like Steve, I'd say the most pressing thing is to get the car recovered and get yourself home safe and sound. Tomorrow, either read the OBD codes yourself and let us know what they are, or get it to a garage or dealer to be dealt with.

You don't need to do anything with the lights and here's a letter from Lexus to prove it: Lexus advice re headlights in France - anonymised for distribution (French & English).26-7-2014.pdf

Doh! Peter just beat me to it while I was still typing

Are you sure it's a light? It may be the shift lock cap. Normally the gear shift won't move if the car is off, but if a situation arises where you do need to move it, you press the shift lock button and it allows the lever to be moved. It usually has a cap on the shift lock button, so it may be this you're looking at.

I've had bladder problems all my life, and it's not unusual for me to go about 12 times during the day and about 4 or 5 (maybe even 6) times during the night. After various tests and cystoscopies, the upshot is that there's nothing wrong, it's just ultra-sensitive. Think of it like filling a balloon with 1000ml of water. Any normal bladder may get to 300ml and you think you'll have to go to the loo sometime soon. Get to 600ml and you need to go now. Get to 700ml and it's getting urgent now; 800ml and you absolutely must go. Unfortunately, although my bladder will hold as much as anyone's, the signals come much earlier. Mine could be 'got to go' at 100ml; really got to go at 200ml and desperation may be 350ml. Anyway, sorry, rambled on a bit there but as well as that, I was diagnosed with bladder cancer in 2015. Thankfully just one very small growth so they excised it all and one treatment of the chemotherapy drug Mitomicyn (squirted directly into the bladder and held in for one hour) has thankfully kept me clear up to now. Every year for 10 years I have to have an annual cystoscopy to make sure things are still alright, so I do consider myself a bit of an expert on cystoscopies and I can honestly say they are no bother at all. First, they squirt some anaesthetic jelly into the urethra and as they insert the camera it pushes the jelly ahead of it, which also acts as a lubricant and helps the passage of the scope. When the camera emerges into the bladder they turn on the water so as to expand the bladder and make it easier to see all of it. I usually watch the monitor to see what's going on. You can feel some slight pushing and pulling as the consultant moves the camera around but I promise you, it's not painful at all. However, it's not all sweetness and light. What is painful is peeing afterwards - it can feel like you're peeing razor blades! The lining of the urethra is quite delicate and it's just had a metal tube pushed through it, so it's not surprising that it gets irritated. The key is to drink plenty fluid. Urine contains ammonia and it's this ammonia that makes the now very sensitive lining of the urethra sting like a very stingy thing that's trying to win a stinging competition! You need to drink plenty of fluids to dilute the ammonia and it'll soon wear off. Good luck to both of you

Glad it's over and done with Piers and I hope the biopsy is clear. Take care and as Malc says, just chill and rest.

Each time the 12V battery is allowed to go flat it sustains a small amount of damage that lowers its capacity and the amount of time it stays flat also contributes to this. As a random example, if it used to take a full 100% charge it may now only take 80%. Depending on the age of the battery and how often this has happened, it may be time to replace it. However, it's worth a try with a good battery charger first, before you spend any money. I would give it a full 24 hours on charge, or at the very least, overnight (NB - as long as you have a modern 'intelligent' charger and not some 40 year old transformer-based thing) and see if that helps. If not, then it's time for a new one.

Absolutely no idea at all, that's a weird one is that. Complete guess but could be a poor connection behind the head unit. I'd get it out and make sure all plugs are securely in their respective sockets, but that's all I can think of. Ooh, just thought - if it's a touch screen then all these things have the digitiser in common. Maybe that's going faulty?

My Xiaomi Mi 10T Lite and Macrodroid work very well together with the Grom. I only use my phone as a hotspot because Sky Mobile let you roll over any unused data so I've got over 75GB available at the moment. When I run out I'll be buying a TP-Link 7350 to act as hotspot/gateway to the Internet. I have it set so that as soon as I boot the car, the phone detects the connection to Lexus Bluetooth which triggers it to activate the Xiaomi's hotspot, which in turn acts as a gateway to the Internet for the Grom. When I switch off the car the phone detects that Lexus Bluetooth has dropped, so it turns off the hotspot. Works flawlessly, first time, every time.

Not as far as I know but can't swear to it.

Thanks guys, I appreciate all your good wishes.

I fully intend to John. I was going to ask for my triple heart bypass to be recorded but didn't bother after my mate pointed out that I'd be on the table for six hours and they'd be talking about what they were having for tea, or even the surgeon saying something like, "Ooh, look at this stringy bit. That shouldn't be there

Thanks Piers, I will certainly ask for as much pain relief as I can have

All the best Piers, hope it goes well mate. I did a poo test recently and it came back positive for blood in the stool, so on Thursday I've got a telephone consult with someone and then a colonoscopy to look forward to

You can get access to the official workshop repair manuals and electrical wiring diagrams from here for 1 hour for €4, 2 hours for €8, 3 hours for €11 and so on. Once you have access, you can print off as many pages as you want within the time allowed.

I hate to say this but it looks like a case of clumsy fingers, or just not concentrating, or being momentarily distracted - in other words, your own fault. I'm really not sure what you expect the insurance company or P&O to do about it given that it's your own mistake.

I honestly wouldn't bother. The Lexus OEM nav is slow, clunky, counter-intuitive and just downright useless. Even if you get a map update that was made yesterday, you're still running it on 10 year old software because map updates are just that - maps. Either use your phone with Waze or Google Maps, which are updated freely and very regularly, or install something like the Grom Vline 2 that gives you Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, and again gives you Waze or Google Maps.

It could be a mixer flap seized or low refrigerant.

The fuel consumption between AC on/off is minimal. Better still, these cars have Climate Control, not just AC. Just set whatever cabin temperature you want, press the Auto button and the car will do the rest - the car really does know best. As well as keeping the car cool in summer and dry in winter, having the AC on all the time means that as the refrigerant gas circulates in the system, so does the lubricating oil. This keeps the rubber seals in great condition rather than having them dry out, go brittle, and cause leaks.