Herbie

Have you installed the .NET framework like it asked you to? .NET is a bit of a strange thing in that normally, the latest version (4.8.1 for .NET) of any given software is all you need for things to work. However, if something on your computer needs e.g. v4.6.2 then that must be installed as well as the latest version. If I remember correctly, Techstream doesn't know or care about XHorse, that would be the cable/emulator driver. Techstream is the diagnostic software, not the means of communicating with the laptop and I'm almost sure that the car can communicate with the laptop without Techstream even being installed.

Lenses used to be made from glass and never suffered from this problem but now that they're made from polyurethane (or is it polycarbonate, I can't remember) the UV light from the sun causes this to break down and become cloudy/hazy. Below is just one video of many available on YouTube (must admit that I haven't watched it - just picked one at random) and this particular one uses a 3M Headlight Restoration Kit but others are available if you wish. The most important thing is to use a good UV-resistant top coat to finish the job, otherwise they'll be just as bad again in a month or two.

Just sent a PM to you Deborah.

Fully charge the battery and then drive to almost anywhere that sells car batteries or any garage and ask them to do a load test on it. It'll only take a couple of minutes and most places will do it free and this will show up any bad cells. I understand that you don't have a specialist auto electrician near you, but are you at least taking it to someone who hasn't seen it before? I ask because the things your usual place have tried up to now do not fill me with confidence that they know what they're doing. Remember that even if they do find a parasitic drain, then they have to start looking for what's causing it and fix that problem. I don't know anything about you Andrew but I assume that carrying out the parasitic drain tests (as per videos earlier in this thread) is not within your skillset or you would have done it by now and told us the results, so make sure that whoever you take it to tomorrow knows how to do it.

Watch this and then tell me how much of a problem you've got:

The USB sockets usually provide 5V at 500mA. You need something like this to see what's going on.

Not Toy/Lex specialists but very good and knowledgeable guys who do a great job for a reasonable price, highly reccommended. Ribble View Garage 2A Rough Hey Rd, Grimsargh, Preston PR2 5AR Tel: 01772 798856 5 out of 5* over 43 Google Reviews (tell them that John, Carl's mate with the red Lexus RX reccommended them).

Exactly. I'd probably go to a Lexus or a hybrid specialist for something like the hybrid system but for things like this, no. A car is a car, is a car in this context. They all have brakes, they all have cooling systems, they all have engines and so on.

Well, I can see what you mean but there's no getting away from the fact that a 'general mechanic' will cover electrics as one module of an HNC/HND/NVQ/whatever or one part of their training, whereas an auto electrician specialises from start to finish in that one thing. There's just no substitute for knowledge and expertise in a given field. However: At the very least, try one of the other garages. It may be a Lexus but it's just 'a car' with wires and cables and a battery, just like any other car from any manufacturer - there is nothing Lexus-specific about this type of problem and they may just have someone on the payroll with a greater understanding of auto electrics than your normal places.

Then get your wife/brother/friend/whoever to follow you out of the area to an auto electrician where you can leave the car with them. 'Auto electrician' is a proper trade in itself and it's becoming patently obvious that the people you're going to are not auto electricians. Back on October 12th both Supafly and myself posted videos showing how to do parasitic drain tests. The thing is, even if your garage does find a parasitic draw, they then have to start looking for the cause of that draw and rectify the problem and again, this is where a proper auto electrician will have the proper tools, knowledge and expertise to get it done quickly and efficiently.

I'm always up for a challenge but are you serious? You really bought a totally dead hybrid car? I don't think I'd be brave enough to do that but hey, every credit to you if it works out. This previous topic will hopefully help. Let's hope you don't need a brand new inverter at €13,822.24 (as it was then).

This may help to explain it:

At this point you need to specialise - aircon specialist for aircon problems; mechanics for general mechanical problems and in your case, auto electricians for electrical problems.

Unfortunately, the right thing here is the Ts & Cs, which explicitly allow this.

Fair enough Kyle, but the upshot of it was this: There's no guarantee that you have the same problem but I'd be looking at that and associated areas to begin with.

This past topic may help:

Discs and pads should last a very long time on a hybrid with some people reporting 80 or 90k miles before they need replacing. The whole idea of the hybrid is to brake gently so that the kinetic energy that would normally be lost to friction heat, is instead converted to electricity by regenerative braking to recharge the traction battery. With heavy braking or an emergency situation the car would go straight to normal hydraulic brakes, but in normal use you need to brake gently and let the regen system do most of the stopping and I think I remember reading that hydraulic braking then takes over at about 7mph.

No, I don't think so. The CAN bus is how the various ECUs communicate (I think so anyway) so once you have access to that I think you can pretty much do anything to get the car working.

Thanks one and all for your concerns, well wishes and advice - it turned out to be quite alright, if a bit complicated, because three things were in play. 1. The effects of the Fentanyl. Wow, that is one powerful drug and that's what was making me sick and dizzy. By about 11pm both the dizziness and vomiting just stopped as the last of the Fentanyl got out of my system. 2. The pain meds I take daily because of my back injury contain Codeine, which makes you constipated. I had to stop taking them two days before the procedure and was unable to keep them down last night, so we (and the doctors on NHS 111) reckon that the hot/cold sweats, the feeling of ants crawling under my skin, and being restless were the effects of Codeine withdrawal. 3. I also have RLS (Restless Leg Syndrome) that makes my legs twitch and jump involuntarily at night. Pramipexole (a drug used to treat Parkinson's Disease) keeps a lid on it but again, being unable to keep the tablets down meant that my legs were all over the place. Thankfully I'm back to normal today and all's well Although he took 19 polyps out yesterday he wants me in again in 6 months for another colonoscopy to make sure he didn't miss any, so I think I'll try to do without the Fentanyl next time and also do some research to see if there's a way round the Codeine problem.

Thanks Len, all noted, cheers.

Hi guys, had my colonoscopy today and he cut out 19 polyps to send to histology. I'm not feeling very sociable at the moment but just wondering, did any of you have severe vomiting after the procedure? Every time I take a sip of water, take a tablet or have a small bite of a sandwich, 10 to 15 minutes later it comes back. Also lots of dry heaving when I haven't attempted to eat anything.

Oh. My. God. How can you possibly look at that and not know that it's absolute carnage waiting to happen Never, ever, ever, leave the battery unsecured like that. As for the electrical properties, the higher the Ah figure, the longer it can stand doing nothing before it goes flat. The CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating doesn't matter at all for hybrids because the battery doesn't crank the engine. It only takes 20A to get the car into READY mode, so you have 810A spare Besides which, it's the electrical load that dictates what current is drawn. It wouldn't matter if the battery was 20,000Ah and a CCA of 20,000A; just because the battery can supply it, it doesn't mean that the car will draw it. I think I'd be looking for a new mechanic with an answer like he gave you.

I hadn't thought of that Malc but I'll certainly give it a go, cheers.

Don't worry about it Barry, no problem at all my friend. I'm just looking forward (not) to taking my first lot of Moviprep at 7.00pm. Then, just for giggles, I have to set the darn alarm for 6.00am to have the second lot!

You can indeed suggest that Piers and it's something I will do. I'm not a wuss but I've been in 24/7 pain for over 20 years because of my back injury, so I'll happily take any advice that stops adding more pain into the mix, cheers.