Herbie

I really would stick with Techstream unless any of the others also show the sub-codes, because they help to narrow down the possibilities even further. Look at this example below: OBD codes are not guaranteed to show you the fault and that's it, it's more of a guidance tool or starting point for further diagnostics. In the example above you can see that code P0AA6 covers six different scenarios, with only the sub-codes to differentiate between them and to help guide you.

This one is fine.

Techstream

PM just sent Simon.

I think that they are still stored as 'Historic' codes.

The water pipe for the rear screen wash goes up that pillar and I think there's a joint somewhere around there. It's possible that the water in the pipe has frozen, expanded, and forced the pipe joint to come apart.

Stick your head underneath and look up. You'll see two or three screws holding the bottom cover in place, so remove them and take off the cover for access to the switch panel.

This comes up often and never fails to make me incandescant because dealers really should know better If you take a multimeter and put the positive probe on the "special" jump start post in the engine bay fuse box and put the negative probe to any unpainted nut, screw, bolt, or bodywork, it will show 12V. There is no hidden or 'special' 12V source in that fuse box, or in the engine bay, or anywhere else for that matter. The 12V you're measuring is coming from one source and one source only, and that is the 12V battery at the back of the car, in the boot. That battery and that 'special' jump start post in the engine bay fuse box are directly connected to each other by a big cable. Ergo, 12V at the front is exactly the same as 12V at the back and it makes not one iota of difference whatsoever, which you choose to connect your jump leads to. The one and only reason not to connect directly to the battery is that the battery can generate hydrogen gas and there is a very small risk of ignition and an explosion if the jump leads spark when being disconnected. After more than 45 years of driving and 'hobby mechanic-ing' and after asking family, friends, workmates and others, not a single person has had personal experience of this, nor have they ever heard of it happening to anyone else, so it would appear to be more of a theoretical risk than a practical one. In conclusion, both the battery at the back and the jump post at the front are absolutely identical and equally viable places to connect jump leads/battery pack to from an electrical point of view.

PM just sent to you Dave.

Did you just look at it or did you actually check continuity across it with a multimeter? Sometimes they can look alright but fail to conduct.

1. In my 2018 RX there's a push switch up in the overhead panel that turns off the internal alarm sensors (shown below) and I'm sure your CT should have the equivalent somewhere. 2. DON'T pull any fuses and/or relays because if you do, you will wake something up and that's the last thing you want as it will lead to misleading results. I realise that you're aware of this but I see no harm in reiterating it for others in the future

This really IS the best way to check for a parasitic drain, including the procedure to put the car to sleep:

So it's a mechanical issue and you've ignored it for a year, so it's now got worse. Only two things as far as I can see - dismantle and fix existing ignition switch or buy a new one.

Time for that multimeter to earn its keep then. Good luck.

If the battery voltage is dropping quickly then it sounds like you have a parasitic drain somewhere, so these may help:

I'm sure there is but can't remember where. It sounds like you don't have an owners manual for the car so it may be best to go to: https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals and download one.

Can't be done as far as I know.

PM sent to you Stephen.

May be a silly question but I think the lights are only indicators - what does the actual transmission do?

Never heard of that - what is it?

Again, John's beaten me to the answer but yes, I agree with everything he's said.

I know that the struts do most of the heavy lifting and they keep it up there once it's open. They also make sure it's a controlled descent rather than just whacking you upside the head. Given that, I'd say that no, the motor alone won't open the tailgate but I'm not 100% sure, but the main problem is that the tailgate wouldn't rise equally on both sides if one strut was taken out.

No offence meant but that's bad advice. The tailgates are very heavy and if you take one strut away you risk bending something out of true.

It's 12V, along with almost every modern car. I seem to remember that motorbikes use 6V, but I've never known any car use 6V.