Herbie

Can you do it again please Barry, as a proper tutorial with step-by-step instructions and lots of photos? Seriously though, good job, well done. I've always enjoyed working on my own cars and you do get a fuzzy feeling inside knowing that you've achieved something.

Yeah but, if I understand you correctly then, all you've done is to replace the incandescent bulb with an LED so effectively they aren't DRLs are they - you're just driving around with your fog lights on. That in itself is an offence as they're only meant to be used in fog or falling snow. No offence Lee, but if you're going to do a job you might as well do it properly

Be aware that if you do this though, you must make sure that you have measures in place to switch the DRLs off automatically when the side/tail and/or headlights are switched on. It would not be legal to work solely on the manual 'fog light' switch and your own remembering to turn them off - you could easily forget.

The above is taken from https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/daytime-running-lights/daytime-running-lights

I don't know what would be involved in doing that but maybe an alternative is to use switchback LEDs in the indicators if possible, just like this RX300:

OBD2 is an industry standard so any OBD2 reader will do - plenty on eBay or Amazon. Alternatively, if you have a laptop you could go for a miniVCI cable

Excellent job Jon, well done!

I beg to differ. I suppose it depends on how big and bright the other lights around it are but I find that they tend to grab your attention faster, plus I just really like the look of them.

How can you trademark a light? Anyone with a soldering iron and a bit of electronics knowledge can knock up the same thing in their garage. I made a sweeping/sequential amber light for a display stand a few months ago myself, but I doubt Audi will be after me

I've always taken "average mileage" to be 12,000/year but some folks these days say 10,000. Either way, that car is still below average mileage and will go on for many, many more miles yet. I'm not sure if that engine has a timing belt or timing chain but if it's a belt they should be replaced at 100,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. If it's not been done, maybe use that as a bargaining chip on price. I think you should also be able to get a hybrid health check done at any Lexus dealer for about £60. The car may be too old to get a hybrid warranty but at least a good health check result should put your mind at rest about the hybrid system at least. Other than that, just enjoy.

As the drivers or end users of the cars we don't have access to all of the traction battery. I can't remember if we get about 60% or about 80% of it's true capacity but as Colin says above, this system allows the battery to have a long life over many years and many, many charging cycles. It may help to visualise it as a horizontal bar, divided into three sections, with the two end sections coloured, say, green and the middle section coloured yellow. The whole length of the bar is the true, actual capacity of the whole battery, but we don't get to use the two green end sections. The yellow coloured section in the middle is 'ours' and the battery indicator that we can see in the dashboard shows us the state of charge of 'our' battery, from flat to fully charged - and yes, we can indeed often see that it is fully charged.

Thanks folks

Well, maybe. I've seen a few people on this forum recommend having the car in EV mode if you're parked up for a while and wanting to listen to the radio, so that the engine will automatically fire up to charge the traction battery when necessary and avoid it getting too low in charge. When I tried that earlier today, I was happily listening to Planet Rock and I heard a bleep and got the message on the multi-function display that "EV mode deactivated due to low battery" then about 5 minutes later the engine fired up to charge the battery (from purple bar to 3 blue bars). At least I know that the engine will fire up when needed but why did it deactivate EV mode, especially when other people specifically suggested having the car in EV mode for that very situation?

Our car went exactly the same but we traded it in anyway so I never found out the answer to the question

Obviously a loose connection somewhere in the output from the amp to the speakers. Given that all speakers are affected it can't be a broken wire somewhere from amp to speakers, it has to be where all the connections are common, so find the amp and make sure all plugs are pushed firmly into their sockets.

First of all, even though it's brand new, it doesn't mean that the paintwork is perfect. Many people pick up their cars from the showroom and drive them straight to a car detailer to have the paintwork corrected to be the best it possibly can be and then protect it from there. If you can't or don't want to do that, then I do firmly believe in the old adage of 'horses for courses' so I would at least go to a good, reputable detailer to ask for their advice. There are so many products out there that it's a complete minefield but professional detailers are the ones doing it all day, every day and making a living out of it, so I'd tend to trust their judgement and advice.

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Regarding the GAP insurance, I suppose it depends on if you can afford to lose a few grand or not. We paid £25k for our car but if it had been written off within, say, two weeks of ownership for example, we would not have been able to replace it like-for-like. This is because the insurance would only pay the trade value of the car, not the market retail price that we paid for it. A mate of mine used to be in the trade and still gets all the publications etc. He said that we would have got £22k from the insurance, not the £25k we paid, so to me it was worth getting the GAP insurance for two or three hundred quid.

To take your last point (and easiest) first, yes, of course - just go to any reputable bodyshop of your choice and ask for an estimate. But note, proper accident repair specialist, not Kwik-fit, Halfords etc. As for the insurance, I absolutely HATE car insurance but we have to have it so we just have to get on with it. I don't agree with this particular aspect of it but I do acknowledge that a 'standard' policy doesn't cover the excess and that's why they always encourage people to take out 'legal cover', which is specifically used to chase out of pocket expenses and excess. If you don't have this extra 'legal cover' then your chances of getting your money back are almost nil, but if you do have it then use it. As Steve and I said earlier, that's what insurance is for.

If you're going through insurance then let them find a place and tell you where to take it. That way, any 'liability issues' are taken care of.

That plug is a DVI-D (Digital Visual Interface - Digital only, single link) It worked with your old computer because the graphics card must have been a digital output (as opposed to the analogue of VGA). The single or dual link doesn't matter except in respect of speed of data transfer. A single link has a maximum data rate of 3.96 Gbit/second, whereas a dual link has a maximum rate of 7.92 Gbit/second. The socket on your monitor is a DVI-I (Integrated digital and analogue) Dual Link so should be capable of working at the higher speed with the compatible lead and terminations, but from the picture of that plug, your old computer graphics card was only capable of the slower speed. I'd say that a lead with a DVI-I (24+5) plug on one end and an HDMI plug at the other should work.

You haven't taken a photo of the DVI end of the new cable you bought but if it doesn't look exactly like the socket on the monitor then you've probably got the wrong one. Your monitor's socket is labelled as DVI-I (Digital Visual Interface - Integrated) and has a 24+5 configuration so you need a cable with a 24+5 DVI-I plug on one end with an HDMI plug on the other.

I'd definitely go for 1 and 2 as we did when we got our car earlier this year. However, with hindsight I wouldn't get them through Lexus! I can't remember the exact prices we paid at the Lexus dealer and at this time of night I'm not going ferreting about for the paperwork to check, but somewhere around £299 each comes to mind. It was only a couple of days later that we found out we could have got the same protections for half the price independently so have a look around.

Depends what sort of tester you've got Geoff. If it's a multimeter, that's not really good enough to test a battery properly; you really need a deep discharge tester to get an idea of the battery capacity. I think someone on here recently mentioned that a good battery should be able to deliver about 300A for about 30 seconds without dipping below 10V. This figure may not be appropriate for our hybrid cars because all the battery does is to control the entry/exit systems and the computers to get the car into the READY state rather than supplying a starter motor, but there will be a figure for it somewhere.

I would imagine it'll be automatic won't it? Take summer tyres off, register winter tyres with Techstream and the car will just see a set of pressure sensors and work with them. You won't have two sets of sensors in operation at the same time so there's nothing to choose - the car only sees one set at a time.