Herbie

What was the ambient air temperature at the time? There is a minimum value below which AC will not work but I can't remember offhand what it is.

With the greatest of respect, that's being a tad unfair. In your other thread you say it was a private sale so you have no warranty. Did you have any inspection done (say by the RAC/AA) before purchase? Why was the vendor selling it? As strange and silly as this sounds, try taking off the petrol filler cap and cleaning all around that area including the threads of the cap itself. Unlikely as it may seem, I'm sure that others have had all sorts of problems and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, and it was all fixed by cleaning the filler cap and making sure it's fitting properly.

Maybe not quite correct - maybe nobody knew how to help you.

This chart may help:

I'm a time-served electrician by trade, spent most of my working life as a telephone engineer on BT and I'm a licenced radio ham - and I've never seen a PCB like that in my life! I'm no expert but I think your diagnosis is correct - that PCB is fubar

I'm not sure that it is. Yes, that little dome is a sensor but it's a photocell measuring light levels for the auto lights, not a sun ray sensor for the climate control.

Taking the error message at face value: Make sure the fan(s) spins freely and is not mechanically seized or bearings on the way out Make sure the fan(s) are being fed the correct voltage Make sure the dust filters, vents and air ducts are clean and clear

+ 1 for what Steve says, very likely to be the 12V battery.

We got the Supagard and the Smart cover, which I think are worth it. However, I've since found out that both of these can be done elsewhere for half the price or less than the Lexus dealer, so I'd say go for it but not at Lexus.

As long as the system is set to AUTO then it's simple physics. When set to AUTO there will probably be a blast of cold air from the face-level vents as this is where the airflow would probably be when you last parked the car. Once the system realises that it's cold it will switch airflow to the feet area because hot air rises and the quickest way to get the whole cabin warm is to pump it out at the bottom and let it rise. First starting the car on a warm summer day will result in the reverse operation - cold air from face (and maybe screen) vents so that it can fall and cool the whole cabin as it does so.

You're very welcome Jay. A couple of other things you could do if you get bored would be the switchback DRLs and the USB cigar lighter conversion

If I remember correctly (going back to that 'longest ever topic') their official reply was that "the reversing lights are not meant to light your way and allow you to see but are merely an indication to other drivers that you're reversing."

The 12V battery only powers up the entry/exit system and boots the computers necessary to bring the hybrid system to the READY state, after that all work is done by the traction battery. Looking at it logically, something is stopping that from happening. Even though you think the safety interlock is correctly seated it's got to be worth pulling out and reseating again, just in case. After that, logic would suggest that it must be something else that you've worked on or disturbed. You said that you found corroded terminals so you cleaned them and put it back together - maybe you missed a link from one cell pack to another? Maybe you missed tightening one terminal or damaged a pack control wire or something (if such things exist)?

Yes they can. You should find all the info you need using the search box because this very thing generated the longest topic ever on these forums if I remember correctly. There's also a pdf file with full instructions too. EDIT: These are the LEDs I got for the job and they work really well. SECOND EDIT: This shroud needs to be removed from the light fitting:

Have a read of this: https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/how-accurate-is-a-car-speedometer/

It'll be under multiple presses of one button or another. Just experiment, you won't break it.

The term for left to right is called balance and the term for front to back is called fade, so you need to look for the 'fader' control and adjust as you like.

For phone calls I just keep the phone in my pocket and use the Bluetooth hands-free system. However, I don't like the Lexus integrated satnav so when I use my phone for navigation using What3Words and Waze, I use one of these CD slot mounts https://www.cdslotmount.com/ It's very stable, holds the phone very steady and you can still play your CDs if that's your thing

Ah, I missed that, sorry - yes, that would indeed solve the problem.

Given your very low mileage I think a hybrid is probably not the best choice. In a normal car the 12V battery is usually quite big and beefy because the starter motor will draw a minimum of about 300A to crank the engine. In a hybrid, all the 12V battery does is to provide power for the entry/exit system and provide power to boot the computers that bring the hybrid system to the 'READY' state; after that, starting of the engine is done by the traction battery. Because of that the 12V battery in a hybrid is much smaller and doesn't hold as much charge, or for anywhere near as long, as the battery in a normal car and you may find that you have a flat battery on a fairly regular basis.

They do a 'Hybrid Health Check' for about £60 or £70 that, if everything is ok, covers the battery for a year.

It's in the boot under the boot floor on the left side in my 2013 RX450h Advance. I didn't notice the type (chemistry) currently fitted last time I was in there but will make a point of doing so.

Never had an LS400 so this may be complete rubbish but presumably just using the physical key in the lock and not the remote zapper should probably do it.

Avez-vous essayé de sélectionner l'icône boussole

You're sort of right but not completely. Yes, the temperature sensor is very accurate and yes, it can be read with decimal point accuracy - but the temperature gauge itself doesn't indicate those fluctuations. Think of early petrol gauges. The float in the tank basically sent a voltage that was read directly by the gauge but because it was a 'raw' voltage the needle used to fly about all over the place as the car went round corners, uphill or downhill and the petrol sloshed around in the tank. To combat this they introduced voltage stabilisers and/or some sort of timing circuit 'damper' so that the gauge reacted more slowly and less erratically to give a smoother reading. The same principle is applied to the instrument panel temperature gauge.