Herbie

This is the first result of a Google search on the phrase (without the quotes) "Alternator output 13.6V" https://www.delcoremy.com/the-latest/2013/august/tech-tip-troubleshooting-the-alternator-charging

Have a look here https://www.toyodiy.com/

I've been missing for a few days due to moving house and I had no idea that John had passed. I never met him but he certainly was a very knowledgeable and affable person in here and he'll be very sorely missed by myself and lots of others. Sincere condolences to all his family and loved ones.

That's exactly what we do and we love it. Over the years we've driven all around Poland, Czechia, Slovakia, Hungary, to name just a few. We don't book hotels in advance, if we fancy turning left we do, if we fancy turning right, we do - complete freedom and autonomy.

Cheers David

Ooh, now you've done it! Get yourself a nice glass of wine and settle into your favourite armchair First of all, hybrids don't have a traditional starter motor or alternator, or anything that would normally be driven by a belt from the engine because the engine doesn't run all the time - imagine being halfway through a turn and you lose power steering because the engine shuts down! Instead, it's all driven electrically. The 12V battery boots up the computers and gets the car into READY mode, equivalent to switching on the ignition in a conventional car. At this point you can drive off on battery power alone if you so wish, but these aren't electric cars and you'd only get a couple of miles (if that) before the traction (hybrid) battery was effectively flat. When the hybrid system wants the petrol engine (ICE - Internal Combustion Engine) to run, it energises Motor/Generator 1 (MG1) and uses that to spin the ICE up to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it. In a standard car the 12V battery is charged up by the alternator but we don't have one. Instead, a device called a DC/DC converter steps down the 288V from the traction battery to about 14.5V to charge it. Other converter/inverters use the same process for other systems like the power steering which, if I remember correctly, uses 48V. The aircon compressor is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor and the two hybrid transaxle motors MG1 and MG2 are both 650V permanent magnet motors. Talking of the aircon compressor, if the system ever needs to be regassed, make sure that you take it to an aircon specialist (or, of course, a Lexus dealer) who knows and can deal with hybrids. The reason for this is that, although the refrigerant gas is the same as any other car, the lubricating oil isn't. As I said above, the aircon compressor is driven by an electric motor and the motor windings are immersed in the oil for cooling purposes. Standard compressor oil is called PAG oil but it's a low dielectric oil which means that it conducts electricity and it will damage the motor windings. We need to use ND11 oil which is a high dielectric and won't damage the windings. It's been shown that as little as 1% contamination by PAG oil can, and will, cause problems. Maybe not immediately but it will. Ideally, a specialist should have a dedicated ND11 machine so that cross-contamination with PAG can't happen. Still with me? You deserve more wine Although it's perfectly alright to jump start a hybrid with a standard car, NEVER, EVER, do it the other way round - you may get away with it but it's not worth the risk. The 12V battery in any car is only used for starting and then the alternator or equivalent takes over the running of the 12V systems such as lights, radio etc., etc. When jump starting, the 'donor' car should have its engine running before the 'recipient' car attempts to start. This is so that the recipient will draw on the donor alternator, not its battery. This is all fine and dandy for a standard alternator because it can output anywhere upwards of 300A and a conventional starter motor will need every Amp of that, but our DC/DC converter can't supply anywhere near that amount and if it was asked to do so it may well expire with a very loud bang and lead to a very expensive repair. Hope that helps a bit.

So does the RX but the CD mount still works. That flap is just 'free standing' for want of a better word and it will open if you just push the mount in as if you were pushing a CD in.

+1 for the 12V battery.

Search for Lexus logo ghost lights.

Now you're asking Just about to go out so I'll reply properly later, but if I remember correctly it's not difficult, just a bit awkward.

And then there's also this:

A very quick search of YouTube found this:

That's overly dramatic for a dealer. All they have to do is to run the camera cable on the opposite side to the DAB feed so that there's a decent separation distance.

Overpriced for what it is and as for fitting, it's an easy DIY job or if you really don't want to DIY, any auto electrician or car hifi installer will do a great job for half the price. Have a look at this:

You may find that if you take that panel off, you'll find the emergency manual lever/cable so that you can operate the tailgate manually if there's a flat battery or whatever.

I've never owned a 220D but you may find something to help here.

Who won't do anything about it. So many different designs of mobile phone out there that any car manufacturer can't be expected to cater for all of them.

Nothing to worry about there. That's an information screen that can display various info when switched. If you didn't do it purposley then you've just switched it to that parameter by mistake. If you were actually driving along with this display active, you'd see arrows showing when the traction battery is powering the wheels or when the car is charging the battery (the battery symbol shows the state of charge of the traction battery).

Yuasa is a well respected brand and I've never had any problems with them at all. I would be inclined to go with the highest Ah and CCA ratings possible, making sure that the battery physically and securely fits where it should and has the terminals in the correct orientation.

Well, looking at those photos they certainly look the same, and given that I've never tried to do it myself, you could well be right. Hope it all goes alright if you try it

There's two functions of the key fob. One is the central locking and the other is the immobiliser, so when you say that the car doesn't register the fob, what exactly do you mean? I know from memory that P0AFA is Hybrid System Voltage Low, so check that you've connected the voltage sensor back up correctly. Also check that the Service Plug Grip is replaced correctly. You say you managed to scan it "with proper software" - was that Techstream? As far as I know, Techstream is the only one that gives the sub-codes as well as the main codes and this is very important. If you look at the screendump below, you'll see that P3004 covers six different problems and only the sub-codes differentiate them for you.

You don't say which photo is yours but I'm assuming the top one, being as that is actually in situ. If you think the bottom photo is just a "facelift" then I'm sorry to say it's not. It's a Mark Levinson, which is an entirely different system with more speakers, different connectors and so on. I'd therefore say no, you probably can't do it.

Neither Lexus nor Toyota make their own batteries, they just buy in and slap their name on them so there's no actual thing as a "genuine" Toy/Lex battery. As long as it physically and securely fits where it's meant to and the terminals have the correct orientation, any battery will do the job because 12VDC is 12VDC no matter what. Yuasa are a well-respected brand but I've not taken much notice of the market for years so I'm not sure about others these days.

My service and, more importantly, the MOT are due on 10th March but first courtesy car available would be in April.

If you buy a camera with a dedicated hardwire kit (or there are even generic hardwire kits out there that will work with any camera) then there's usually a voltage sensor/selector included. My Viofo A129 Duo uses the HK3 (Hardwire Kit 3) and allows me to set a voltage limit beyond which it will not drop. From memory I think 11.8V, 12.0V, 12.2V and 12.4V are selectable and if I select 12.2V for example, once the battery gets to that value the camera supply is switched off, so as to not leave you with a flat battery.